829 whp Marauder

Unsure about the current owner but Steve is/was Glassman99 on this forum.

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I need my car to run in the 10s I’m wondering if he has the engine from modular head shop. My block has a little work done to it but I’m wondering should I buy a cobra engine or something like the ones from modular to be able to run 10s with my current procharger.
 
Lidio from alternative automotive is in Michigan, Martyo has a shop in Georgia and MMR on the west coast, if you need to be in the 10’a it’s possible, just a bunch of $$$$


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I need my car to run in the 10s I’m wondering if he has the engine from modular head shop. My block has a little work done to it but I’m wondering should I buy a cobra engine or something like the ones from modular to be able to run 10s with my current procharger.

Not with a D1SC.
F1A all day long...
 
I’m not sure where to even start besides saying the engine is only one piece of a very expensive puzzle. Assuming you could make the power off the D1 there is still >

Larger throttle body
Full exhaust
Larger MAF
Manual tensioner
8 rib set up
Overdriven lower pulley
Tiny upper pulley
Probably increasing the blower piping size
Making it all a fully welded and V band clamp set up or your in for a nightmare of pipes blowing off.
Larger BOV
Complete new fuel system and wiring
Trans
Converter
Driveshaft
Fully built rear
New drag radials
Brakes if you want to slow the girl on down
And suspension to keep it planted

I’m know damn well I left off a couple grand in the smalls.

Also now we’re talking about a car that didn’t come from the factory with a power adder such as the CTS/V that you’re wanting to school. That automatically puts you keeps you above 11.49 per NHRA until you get a roll cage.. Not even mentioning the small list of other things you’ll have to address to compete properly and safely.

I’d love to see another quick Marauder but guys like me have spent a decade or more basically repurchasing the car more than once in just parts and just feel the need to warn you how quickly it adds up and point out that the only thing on this car that’s bulletproof is the frame..

You got an AWESOME street car. Once you turn up the wick beyond that your putting a lot of trust in aftermarket parts. I trust my car as it’s been 100% trouble free for seven years now. But guess what? Anytime it goes to the track or crosses a state line to go to meets its on a trailer. Homie goes out to have fun, Homie doesn’t need headaches this late in life!



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Thanks a lot for the detailed reply I really appreciate you taking the time to do that there’s a lot of info in there. I’m prepared to make the necessary upgrades this will be what I put most of my time and money in since my other hobbies are pretty inexpensive. Once I get in touch with Marty I guess I’ll know the next steps I’ll have to take.
 
I’m not sure where to even start besides saying the engine is only one piece of a very expensive puzzle. Assuming you could make the power off the D1 there is still >

Larger throttle body
Full exhaust
Larger MAF
Manual tensioner
8 rib set up
Overdriven lower pulley
Tiny upper pulley
Probably increasing the blower piping size
Making it all a fully welded and V band clamp set up or your in for a nightmare of pipes blowing off.
Larger BOV
Complete new fuel system and wiring
Trans
Converter
Driveshaft
Fully built rear
New drag radials
Brakes if you want to slow the girl on down
And suspension to keep it planted

I’m know damn well I left off a couple grand in the smalls.

Also now we’re talking about a car that didn’t come from the factory with a power adder such as the CTS/V that you’re wanting to school. That automatically puts you keeps you above 11.49 per NHRA until you get a roll cage.. Not even mentioning the small list of other things you’ll have to address to compete properly and safely.

I’d love to see another quick Marauder but guys like me have spent a decade or more basically repurchasing the car more than once in just parts and just feel the need to warn you how quickly it adds up and point out that the only thing on this car that’s bulletproof is the frame..

You got an AWESOME street car. Once you turn up the wick beyond that your putting a lot of trust in aftermarket parts. I trust my car as it’s been 100% trouble free for seven years now. But guess what? Anytime it goes to the track or crosses a state line to go to meets its on a trailer. Homie goes out to have fun, Homie doesn’t need headaches this late in life!



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^^^THIS^^^, I was a little over 50k in mods with mine, cost of parts have gone up expediently since then, most of my track time was Woodward, fun times.

And when it breaks, it breaks. As Bob said, trailer it everywhere, and when it breaks, you can get home with no worries.


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It's good to see new guys modding 4.6 DOHCs and making their Marauders fast!
I'm too old to fight that battle again...
As others have said;
Making a 4,200 lb 4 door sedan with an automatic transmission and a 281 CID V8 run quick is a major undertaking.
If I had the gumption to buy another Marauder.... it'd be a 5.0 Coyote build at a minimum.

As other, smarter members know....the only way to make a 4.6 V8 run quickly....is with major league forced induction!


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Last edited:
It's good to see new guys modding 4.6 DOHCs and making their Marauders fast!
I'm too old to fight that battle again...
As others have said;
Making a 4,200 lb 4 door sedan with an automatic transmission and a 281 CID V8 run quick is a major undertaking.
If I had the gumption to buy another Marauder.... it'd be a 5.0 Coyote build at a minimum.

As other, smarter members know....the only way to make a 4.6 V8 run quickly....is with major league forced induction!


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Or an LS swap, with forced induction


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Imagine spending $100k, still street legal, but not being reliable enough to jump in for a road trip. Unless it is non-legal non-registrable, I don't get the trailering it everywhere. Reminds me of the harley guys that only ride from bar to bar locally, and then trailer their bikes to sturgis.. I don't get it. Part of the fun is the road trip there.
 
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