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Any of these in stock? If not how many orders required for a production run?

Flip the car over and open the radiator drain.

Myself and my brother are interested in some miscellaneous pieces. I'd like the dash trim and possibly the driver's window switches if the tab isn't broken. He wants the harnesses for the marker lights and possibly the marker lights if they don't sell. Lmk when you'll be around and we can...

Around here we call jeeps like those "mall crawlers". The only thing they're usually missing is one of these: https://youtu.be/eIXLBl9Pf3Q

"Badges? We don't need no stinking badges!" Looks good. GLWS.

How do your front rotors look? It's possible that there is rust buildup at the edge of the pad contact area. A high spot can cause a squeak when making light contact with the pads. Have you checked the wheel bearings?

I would shop around for a good used engine. As posted above the aviator engine is an option and should be more plentiful and hopefully reasonably priced. May be worth shopping around for labor as well. I would be willing to help for a reasonable rate, but I'm a few states away and extra busy...

Welcome. One additional advantage of '03 is no traction control to turn off. Supercharging if done correctly should have little to no effect on longevity. I purchased my car with the supercharger already installed. To my knowledge it was installed for over 10 years and 100k miles. Engine still...

That's cool. Didn't know they existed. My suburban is a "3 door". The lack of an additional door on the driver's side is only a minor inconvenience.

It's possible the cap is bad and not holding pressure. With the correct adapters they can be tested, however a replacement is cheap insurance compared to potential engine repairs.

Our issue was just a small break in one of the hard plastic lines. Originally was able to fix it with the cowl in, but there's tons of room with it out. CVPI with wiper cowl out. https://imgur.com/gallery/mLpdCpD

My brothers CVPI had a leak in the same area. I believe I used heat shrink tubing to fix it. IIRC, was able to slide the tubing on from one end and then shrink it in place to seal the leak.

"It's good to be the King"

They've been around. Not sure how much they're used commercially but that one might be worth trying especially for the price. I'm interested to see how it does on heavy buildup. Might need a quick pass with the needle scaler and use that after.

The more new stuff they make the more I love my old stuff. I don't currently own anything I don't like looking at.

It's a case by case basis. I have some HFT which have been used professionally and survived surprisingly well. Fairly easy to judge the quality once you have your hands on the stuff. Have their trans jack, some extra play where it pivots but gets the job done. 3 1/2 ton aluminum floor jack is...

Cheese Louise! Can't drive like that with a hot pizza, the cheese and pepperoni slides all over the place. Or so I've been told.... I'm surprised the tree made it with just the one strap on it.

I second m10 X 1.5 Incredibly close to 3/8-16 in diameter and pitch.

Did you check/ reset the inertia switch? Both the FPDM and the inertia switch are drivers side trunk wall behind the trunk liner. Have seen a few inertia switches that take several resets to unstick them.

Call the sniper. Tell him to take the shot.