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I'm also in north Jersey. I'm both young and old depending upon who I'm talking to.

Mr. Man, just lmk when you're ready and I'll come take it out. It's only 2 screws and a few connectors. Easy enough to do in the driveway.

Yes, the starter and wiring is identical. My brother's car is a 2004 CVPI and my Marauder is a 2003. No distinguishable difference between the 2 cars starters and mounting locations. https://i.imgur.com/D6ZlZqy.jpg https://i.imgur.com/XeXPw8Q.jpg https://i.imgur.com/UCIyxBr.jpg

The gear reduction starter is a completely different shape and gives you more access to reach the top bolt. However, 1 of the holes is blocked by the housing and the factory bolt doesn't fit. I run a different bolt through the bellhousing and put a nut on the starter side. Also the wires are...

Just took the starter out of my brothers car the other day getting replaced with gear reduction starter: Powermaster 9532. I have the same starter in my marauder and it works great. I believe justbob is where I got the part #. Top bolt required 10mm 3/8 drive deep socket, 4" extension, and...

Shouldn't be a problem for any half decent shop.

Should be polished with clear coat. I personally don't have the patience most of the time, especially not when wheel guys will do it for reasonable prices.

Idk about you guys, but I read this as a joke/ sarcasm. fastblackmerc does excellent work and I'd like him to keep doing it.

Keep us posted. My brother and I are interested in bringing it back to life and having a clean title would certainly be nice.

In front of the shifter where the gauges are in a marauder.

fastblackmerc, are you available to do an LCM in the next week or two? I can have it out and shipped before the weekend. Thank you.

We made this for my brothers CVPI. I still prefer working with metal, but it came out halfway decent.

IIRC, there's a kit with both axles, seals and bearings. I believe it was cheaper than the parts individually. I do not have the part # saved.

I would start with vacuum. What is the rpm in P/N? It's not impossible that there's some gunk in one of the carb jets.

Gross. Looks like his friend was welding by braille. Gotta love those castle nut spacers on the manifold bolt though.

That's sad. Glad he's okay. There is no reason for people to drive under the influence in this day and age. Stay where you are or get a ride.

I agree with this 1000%.

Might also be worth checking the alternator case and regulator grounds. A small amount of paint or rust can impede current flow. Have a gap in my manuals from 65 to 70, but I believe I found a schematic that will help. Unable to upload images, will pm contact info.

Worn front may have excessive play, may not. Any chance you have access to a lift? Can put it up in the air and bring it up to some speed to check for noise. Granted it may not be as noisy with the bearings unloaded. Any extra pedal travel or pulling when braking? If there is play in the front...

Mr. Man, there's a driveshaft shop up in harmony that I've been using for years. Had him rebalance mine while the trans was out. Have never had a problem with his work. Lacey Williams, Harmony brass castle rd. Philipsburg NJ