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Here are some clips from another thread on another forum to help educate folks.
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Topic Title: are rotors directional?
Yes, rotors CAN be directional. These however are not from what we know of them. A directional rotor is based SOLEY on it's venting properites and 'sucking air' through the middle. They have casting webs to enhance this. These are most likely 'straight vane' rotors and are universal. Direction of the rotor has absolutely nothing to do with surface treatments. i.e. gas slot, holes, dimples etc.
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You'res will run in either direction. But if it makes you feel better turn them around... but if you think somehow you'll know the difference, nada. As the directional rotor uses the reverse pattern it does so to try and put a hole in each of the vane cavities. The hole pattern on a straight vane rotor can (and often does) run the other way when drilled. I'm going to try and compile a folder of different patterns and such for a more complete reference on some of this. If nothing else it makes one think a bit about some of the comments made. (and I'm now up to 14 patterns)
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UPDATE:
I hit upon something I'd thougth of the other day and did not take time to look into closely until building a kit today for a customer who ordered drilled rotors.
By now you know (I hope) that the direction of the holes does not dictate a rotor rotation direction. With this in mind I reviewed patterns in drilled rotors and noticed a common element; non directional rotors, or straight vane ones, can have the hole pattern in either direction and vent nearly all the vanes inside by doing so. However, if you put a hole sweep of four holes in the same pattern as the inner vanes of the rotor you may wel vent only one of the passages. Now...when you 'reverse' the hole pattern into the curve vane rotors you introduce a port to nearly every passage. (depending upon the number of sweeps drilled of course)
So, straight vane: either way.
Curve vane: counter pattern is more effective pattern.
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NOW ONTO THIS THREAD> I liked this one.
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Topic Title: Another Ebay rotor question...
As the old saying goes "You get what you paid for.", in this case, I'm looking at 4 different rotors being sold on Ebay for the same price. Each offers a different photo, all look relativly the same from said photos so I'm to believe a few of them are the same thing. The descriptions are pretty much alike as well, highlighting the key buzz-words and talking about crazy real-life implications of these rotors. And for the price of one name brand rotor I can get all 4...so it's worth a shot.
Now this set I've seen asked about on the board to which they got pretty good reviews. Haven't heard of any warping or horrendious performance issues, and with his feedback these would be my first choice.
Yet another set listing the same benefits. Nothing new from the first.
These are a little different. For just $40 more I can get them plated in black or bronze. Only reason I'd go for these is because of that option so I could get black. But it's not the deciding factor here.
Finally, these guys here. Again, nothing new or descriptiong in the ad to set these apart from the rest...
I guess I could just go for the person w/the best feedback, or cheapest shipping (but at this savings why?). But basicly I'm looking for some insite if anyone knows a friend or has experience w/them. I'd like to place the order tomorrow or Saturday.
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Let's take a minute to really talk about all the rotors on ebay today. I'll put it simply for you: Kids buy bling and love a bargain. There, I've said it.
I'll wager that 99% of these are the same blanks. How can this be? In todays world of production anyone with modest funds can purchase a CNC machine and pump out 'performance rotors'. What makes a 'performance rotor'? Well, let me tell you; it's not how many holes it has or what color it is. What's behind these fancy web pages, or who is behind them and where? For all you really know it's one shop spitting out the same rotor from (insert country of origin here) and selling them through different sites.
Why would one be better than the other? It's not. If they fit your car in stock fashion; they are the same rotor! Why, how? The only real issue I'd look for in a stock rotor being 'better' is if said rotor is directional (and we aren't arguing about the diretion of the slots or holes- on a standard rotor it doesn't matter). Do any of them list rotor weight? How about air gaps? Maybe wall thickness?
Bottom line; buy the ones that tickle your fancy or wallet. With decent pads and ss hoses they are all going to perform the same; Acceptable. And that's cool. Just don't expect the buzz words of one to suddenly have you braking at the one marker.
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I know these aren't going to be some hidden gem that will out perform rotors that are $200 each. But they are probably a tad better than OE and they do add a nice look to the car. I'm not getting these because of the "look", but if I can get something that works a bit better than stock I'll go for it. These are in much better shape than my current setup, and they don't cost too much coin so it's not like I'd be pissed if these were to be junk in a year or two.
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Don't mis understand my comments; I'm not saying there are not some minor enhancements in the use of such rotors. Just not significant improvements and most certainly not any difference between the ones you linked from what we know of them. A blank's a blank's a blank at this price level. I doubt there is serious grain structure or nickel content difference for example to justify one over the other.
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Topic Title: are rotors directional?
Yes, rotors CAN be directional. These however are not from what we know of them. A directional rotor is based SOLEY on it's venting properites and 'sucking air' through the middle. They have casting webs to enhance this. These are most likely 'straight vane' rotors and are universal. Direction of the rotor has absolutely nothing to do with surface treatments. i.e. gas slot, holes, dimples etc.
****************************************
You'res will run in either direction. But if it makes you feel better turn them around... but if you think somehow you'll know the difference, nada. As the directional rotor uses the reverse pattern it does so to try and put a hole in each of the vane cavities. The hole pattern on a straight vane rotor can (and often does) run the other way when drilled. I'm going to try and compile a folder of different patterns and such for a more complete reference on some of this. If nothing else it makes one think a bit about some of the comments made. (and I'm now up to 14 patterns)
*****************************************
UPDATE:
I hit upon something I'd thougth of the other day and did not take time to look into closely until building a kit today for a customer who ordered drilled rotors.
By now you know (I hope) that the direction of the holes does not dictate a rotor rotation direction. With this in mind I reviewed patterns in drilled rotors and noticed a common element; non directional rotors, or straight vane ones, can have the hole pattern in either direction and vent nearly all the vanes inside by doing so. However, if you put a hole sweep of four holes in the same pattern as the inner vanes of the rotor you may wel vent only one of the passages. Now...when you 'reverse' the hole pattern into the curve vane rotors you introduce a port to nearly every passage. (depending upon the number of sweeps drilled of course)
So, straight vane: either way.
Curve vane: counter pattern is more effective pattern.
*****************************************************
NOW ONTO THIS THREAD> I liked this one.
*****************************************************
Topic Title: Another Ebay rotor question...
As the old saying goes "You get what you paid for.", in this case, I'm looking at 4 different rotors being sold on Ebay for the same price. Each offers a different photo, all look relativly the same from said photos so I'm to believe a few of them are the same thing. The descriptions are pretty much alike as well, highlighting the key buzz-words and talking about crazy real-life implications of these rotors. And for the price of one name brand rotor I can get all 4...so it's worth a shot.
Now this set I've seen asked about on the board to which they got pretty good reviews. Haven't heard of any warping or horrendious performance issues, and with his feedback these would be my first choice.
Yet another set listing the same benefits. Nothing new from the first.
These are a little different. For just $40 more I can get them plated in black or bronze. Only reason I'd go for these is because of that option so I could get black. But it's not the deciding factor here.
Finally, these guys here. Again, nothing new or descriptiong in the ad to set these apart from the rest...
I guess I could just go for the person w/the best feedback, or cheapest shipping (but at this savings why?). But basicly I'm looking for some insite if anyone knows a friend or has experience w/them. I'd like to place the order tomorrow or Saturday.
*******************************************************
Let's take a minute to really talk about all the rotors on ebay today. I'll put it simply for you: Kids buy bling and love a bargain. There, I've said it.
I'll wager that 99% of these are the same blanks. How can this be? In todays world of production anyone with modest funds can purchase a CNC machine and pump out 'performance rotors'. What makes a 'performance rotor'? Well, let me tell you; it's not how many holes it has or what color it is. What's behind these fancy web pages, or who is behind them and where? For all you really know it's one shop spitting out the same rotor from (insert country of origin here) and selling them through different sites.
Why would one be better than the other? It's not. If they fit your car in stock fashion; they are the same rotor! Why, how? The only real issue I'd look for in a stock rotor being 'better' is if said rotor is directional (and we aren't arguing about the diretion of the slots or holes- on a standard rotor it doesn't matter). Do any of them list rotor weight? How about air gaps? Maybe wall thickness?
Bottom line; buy the ones that tickle your fancy or wallet. With decent pads and ss hoses they are all going to perform the same; Acceptable. And that's cool. Just don't expect the buzz words of one to suddenly have you braking at the one marker.
***************************************************
I know these aren't going to be some hidden gem that will out perform rotors that are $200 each. But they are probably a tad better than OE and they do add a nice look to the car. I'm not getting these because of the "look", but if I can get something that works a bit better than stock I'll go for it. These are in much better shape than my current setup, and they don't cost too much coin so it's not like I'd be pissed if these were to be junk in a year or two.
***************************************************
Don't mis understand my comments; I'm not saying there are not some minor enhancements in the use of such rotors. Just not significant improvements and most certainly not any difference between the ones you linked from what we know of them. A blank's a blank's a blank at this price level. I doubt there is serious grain structure or nickel content difference for example to justify one over the other.
****************************************************
John F. Russo
Senior Member
SergntMac said:Ummm...If you own a Kenny Brown Marauder S, you own a BaerClaw front brake system now. It comes with the KB build, eh?
I just checked with David Frey at Kenny Brown. He did confirm that I do have the BaerClaw system.
I keep learning from the best here at mercurymarauder.com.
Thank you.
I've changed my car bio below already.
___________________________________________________
2003 Dark Blue Pearl 300B (Canadian) w/Light Flint (reversed
traction control, mini spare, trunked 6 disc CD changer,
clock-in-the-radio, heated front seats/mirrors, hood light)
-Born 12/10/02; converted new then used 2/28/03
-23,000 miles
-18.5 mpg at a steady speed of 80 mph, one tank of gas
-Stock transmission (upgraded with Performance Automatic
clutches and band after stock tranny failed in 8,800 miles)
-Wheel locks (Ford); godshead valve stem caps
-Badgeless front grille by “Zack”
-Zaino waxing; RainX
Kenny Brown: 6th “Signature Series” conversion (450 hp) Born
3/28/03 (first drove it)
-Vortech supercharger (3 to 7 psig boost)
-377 RWTQ
-4.10 gears
-14 in. BaerClaw front brakes, two piston, slotted/drilled rotors
-MMX Driveshaft
-Precision, triple disc, P/N469018-3 Precision, triple disc, P/N469018-3
-Ford Racing Stud and Girdle
-Pirelli P-Zero Asimmetrico (front 255/45ZR18 99Y; rear
255/50ZR18 102Y)
-Dead pedal
-FordChip
-3/4 of a coil from each front stock spring removed to produce
the “same” effect as an Eibach spring
-Ground clearance: 5 in.
_________________________________________________________
1961 Ford Galaxie, 2 dr. Club Victoria, 390CID, 375hp, 4 barrel (gone)
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