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A couple of other things I've picked up over the years:

1. Know your blood type. Just in case.

2. Don't just empty the inside of the car. Empty the trunk. Spare tire? Toss it. Fasten loose seatbelts - loose buckles are not safe.

3. Don't try to rip off the fastest lap possible the first time (or second or third) out, whether or not the tires are warm. Work your way up to it.

4. Make sure your transmission is up to the challenge. It takes the most abuse on a road course. For example - while you are learning your instructor may tell you to put it in second gear and leave it there. Is your transmission up to it?

5. Get temperature gauges for the engine oil and the transmission oil. It gives you early warning about trouble brewing. See #4.

6. Get a catch tank - most courses require 'em. You don't want to be putting down oil or antifreeze on a track where adhesion is critical. It doesn't have to be expensive - use an old water bottle.

7. Learn to watch corner workers - practice by watching sidewalks in your daily drives. The corner workers are your friends - they will warn you about things you can't see, or things going wrong with your car YOU can't see. Think oil-dri or grease-sweep isn't slippery? Think again - the workers'll tell you where it is.

8. Yellow flag means no passing. Period. See #7.

9. Watch your mirrors - check 'em not less than every two seconds. If a faster car is overtaking, YOU are in control of where they pass you. POINT where you want them to pass you, and then yield the racing line so they can safely complete the pass.

10. One point = one pass. Another car? Point again. See #9.

11. Walk the track before you drive it (if at all possible). Especially with someone who knows the track. Maybe the night before. Walk the racing line. Observe the surface. Learn where the shutdown markers are. THINK about what you are going to do in each corner before you get there. Drive the track in your head.

12. There are only two kinds of drivers. Those that have hit the wall, and those that are going to hit the wall. Don't be in a hurry to get in to group 2. Don't overdrive your skill level.

13. Observe, observe, observe. See a driver that has the course nailed? Talk to them. Watch them for a session. It's a family - everybody shares. Depending on the instructors, see if they'll let you play 'follow the leader.'

14. Shuffle steer? Baloney. Never take your hands off the wheel. http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2010/05/just-say-no-to-shuffle-steering/ Try it in a parking lot.

15. On a road course, you ALWAYS start the turn later then you think you should.

16. Get comfortable with the car sliding - all four wheels. It shouldn't be a surprise.

17. Pay attention to tire pressure. Start at recommended factory and reduce by 5PSI until you find the level of adhesion you like. The front pressure mey not be the same as the back pressure.

18. Check your tire pressure at the end of every session. It always goes down - surprise! :-)

19. What are your priorities in the corner? Exit - Entry - Apex. In that order. (You can always practice the corner backwards in your mind.)

20. Try to carry as much speed as possible through the corner for the best lap times. Speed comes off faster than it goes on.

21. What do you drive with? Head - Feet - Hands. In that order.

22. The best car is the one that remains most 'flat' through the corner, with the least sideloading (i.e. force perpendicular to the direction of travel). Don't worry about 'feeling fast.'

23. Remember the terminology to tell you where things are on a track that only goes in one direction: "Driver's Left," "Driver's Right."

24. It's your track - use all of it. Translation: If you are driving the racing line, other drivers must yield to you (more true if you are in an instructor-led session, where there is no passing). If you start the turn at driver's left entrance, hit the apex at driver's right and push back to driver's left exit, that's perfectly fine.

25. In learning a new track, try this: start by turning in early at a comfortable (i.e. not full racing) speed, staying on a tight line, staying on the inside as long as possible. Then start to build speed while keeping the car on that same line.

26. Got good brakes? Good fluid level? Make certain. Same with tires - have enough tread.

27. Keep the engine running for a few minutes after last lap to allow everything to cool predictably.

And a comment on Helmets: SCCA regulations require a Snell 2010 helmet. I think Snell 2005's are still acceptable (the last two certification years are usually the limitations). Snell 2000 and earlier certifications are no longer accepted and no longer safe.

And on seat belts: If this is your first track day, I'm not entirely convinced that you need to invest in a full (or partial) harness to figure out whether you like this sort of stuff. The factory seat belts are fine. But, as I learned, the chairs in the MM are pretty wide, and you'll need a dead pedal or something to push your butt into the seat and keep from sliding around.

And on pedal use: The preceding comment also make me think about pedal use. For a few of my first MM laps, I tried left foot braking and right foot acceleration. I couldn't do it - I needed my left foot to cram my butt into the seat to keep from sliding all over the place. Then I tried heel and toeing the pedals - that didn't work for me either, due to pedal placement and the size of my foot. But, if you think you want to try this sort of stuff, practice in a parking lot to see if you can get comfortable with it.

Anyway - hope it helps.
 
All good (and valuable) advice Mark, thank you. Seems we just covered the first hour of driver training in one post.
And a comment on Helmets: SCCA regulations require a Snell 2010 helmet. I think Snell 2005's are still acceptable (the last two certification years are usually the limitations). Snell 2000 and earlier certifications are no longer accepted and no longer safe.
I had my reservations about posting the SN '95 certifications that I have, they seemed a bit "old" to me as well. However it is what was posted on related web sites and shame on those sites who haven't updated their 411 in some time. Thanks for catching this.

My helmet is an SN2005, Mary's is an SN2010 and we used them both at Spring Mountain. I apologize for any misunderstanding in my previous post, I did find those resources too generous in publishing a standard that is now understood to be expired.

I cannot agree with your "no longer safe" remark. Perhaps this is just your way of phrasing thoughts?

A Snell approved helmet will always be safe, and safer, than most options. Just not up to official race track standards nor pass official race track inspection. However, you have to think about it all this way. An uncertified helmet may result in an uncertified brain. Any questons?

Any Snell approved helmet is safe, and safer than options i.e. Motorcycle/ATV/Snowmobile helmets, but just not up to recent code changes and improvements in fire retardant technology. However, "not approved" means exactly what it says, "not approved". Once we clarify this early 411, we will know what direction to follow.

I've had enough to say about this for now, I will return with comments once we are closer to the event.

Be safe, y'all, carry on gents.

Sergntmac@aol.com
312.401.1396
 
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Probably a little bit of both, Mac. I still have echoes in my mind of the Chief of Tech, San Francisco Region SCCA, yelling "Don't let him on the track with that helmet - it isn't safe!" when a participant tried to go out with a Snell 1980 helmet in 1994. So, I've just always thought of the more-than-two-certifications-old helmet as 'not safe.' It's reflex.

... I cannot agree with your "no longer safe" remark. Perhaps this is just your way of phrasing thoughts?

A Snell approved helmet will always be safe, and safer, than most options. Just not up to official race track standards nor pass official race track inspection. ...
 
A couple of other things I've picked up over the years:

1. Know your blood type. Just in case.

You had me at "Know your blood type .... Just in case." :o

There is NO way that I will remember 27 tips for Road Racing. Maybe 15 or 10 max .... but not necessarily in order. :rofl:

Guess that I will just have to wait to see all the specs that the MV10 crew has set up for the Gingerman event. I really wanted to get out on the road course and try out a little "spirited driving" on some twisties. From the above discussions, I may just have to settle for sitting on the hill and spectating while the serious racers push the limits especially if helmets and firesuits are required for all events.

BTW --- I am "O Positive" for those who might need a transfusion injection unless you're askeered of getting some Old man's blood. :P

I was kinda hoping that there might be an opportunity to run the course a couple times "just for the heck of it" or within some graduated classes from "Expert" to "Novice". Don't know whether that is planned or even possible; but I'd like to put my bid in now for the "Sissies" class. With a 700 mile drive home, there's not much chance that I will risk a spin out and encounter with the barrier walls.

However this turns out .... I'll be there either watching the Pros or making a couple "non-competitive" laps. :D
 
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We still need to iron out the details with driver training and classification of drivers. There will certainly be a novice group, with more hand-holding. We are also talking about a parade lap for everyone to participate in. Much more to come but try not to get bogged down with all the details now. Mark and Mac are showing their excitement and knowledge, for sure!!

It's not about speed, it's about accuracy and control of your car. It's a BLAST and I think about what I've learned on the track and in the classes I've taken every time I drive!!
 
You had me at "Know your blood type .... Just in case." :o

There is NO way that I will remember 27 tips for Road Racing. Maybe 15 or 10 max .... but not necessarily in order. :rofl:

Guess that I will just have to wait to see all the specs that the MV10 crew has set up for the Gingerman event. I really wanted to get out on the road course and try out a little "spirited driving" on some twisties. From the above discussions, I may just have to settle for sitting on the hill and spectating while the serious racers push the limits especially if helmets and firesuits are required for all events.

BTW --- I am "O Positive" for those who might need a transfusion injection unless you're askeered of getting some old man's blood. :P

I was kinda hoping that there might be an opportunity to run the course a couple times "just for the heck of it" or within some graduated classes from "Expert" to "Novice". Don't know whether that is planned or even possible; but I'd like to put my bid in now for the "Sissies" class. With a 700 mile drive home, there's not much chance that I will risk a spin out and encounter with the barrier walls.

However this turns out .... I'll be there either watching the Pros or making a couple "non-competitive" laps. :D

I have to agree with Bluerauder and Doom. I want to get my car out there and "feel" it is the twisties. I have only had my car a month now and it IS my DD. I cannot afford it to be hit or possibly hit someone else. But I do wanna feel it, as I do tend to push my car a little in the turns when I am the only one around to get a feel for her limits.

Now I also realize that all the above points are just what can be expected... and no one should get in an uproar until we officially hear from the MVX committee of what is required.

I too hope that they have or set aside a small amount of our time for the "junior" racers to get out there and stretch the legs of our cars a bit and better learn how to handle it possibly even.
 
I just had my first experience on a road course, my prior instruction was reading "Sports Car and Competition Driving" by Paul Frere, dated 1963
I learned a lot of good stuff and went out to prove nothing but to get a feel of what my car was capable of.
No walls, just saltwater and Mangrove trees on either side.
I walked the course with a friend 1st
Then went on a ride along in an 89 LX with a well warmed over 5.0 and REALLY good suspension mods with nice race tires.
I then took a couple of passes and laughed at myself for the full ride.
My car is way more capable than me and I didn't push it.
I didn't need my dead pedal to hold me in my seat.
Returned home with a big smile, a trophy for "most cones knocked down in a single pass":banana2: and the desire to do it again. In a car roughly 3 feet shorter and 1500-2000 lbs lighter.
I'm thinking turbo'd Miata.
 
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I agree that the planning people need to get more info.But it sounds like my car would need some upgrades to do this,and I am not budjeted for it this year plus I do more quarter mile than I will ever do on a road course.But I would love the experience and knowledge from it,so I may be on the hill with the rest of you...
 
Hmmm... O- here... I guess ya'll will be good if its one of ya'll-I'm always up for helping out.

But me? I'm screwed.

I won't be pushing it too hard either. But I'm not a fan of the Snell helmets at all. I tried on a few after MV9 and they all felt like I was wearing a brick on my head... Not to mention I'm in the same category as some others here on having to go with a 3/4 or less due to "eye wear restrictions". Oh well. Here's to hoping for loaners or rentals.
 
Oh and my blood type is "B" for BOOST!!! :burn:

I thought it was "B" for "BLING"
Or "P" for "PINK" or "POLISHING THE CHROME"
Or.....yeah, I could go on forever...;)

Getting mixed feelings now about this road course as well, but I'm probably over-reacting as this is all new to me. Passing? I had in mind that there would be 2 or 3 cars max on the course at the same time, spaced at 3/4 - 1 mile intervals or something.

I completely understand the desire to NOT have a bunch of jokers in their MMs making a shambles of the course and creating utter chaos.

I, too, would be in line for the 'pre-novice' group; I already know the car can outperform my skill. Yes, I would like to 'kick it up a notch' while on the course, but in no way would I put myself in the situation of having to worry about hitting barriers, other cars, flag persons, etc. My lap(s) around the course may be boring to some (or most), but it'll be a thrill for me. The power and speed of the MM is just ONE of the reasons why I bought it, not THE reason.

I will respect all safety rules and guidlines, the knowledge of the professionals, and keep in mind the goal is to have fun doing something I've never had the chance to do before and may not get to do again. It would be better to leave the course thinking, "I could've pushed it a little harder" instead of, "Why am I going to the hospital?", in my opinion.

I can only image what a daunting task it is to put something like this together for us and I appreciate it greatly. The last thing anyone wants is to have someone turn their MM into a pile of twisted metal, let alone need to be taken to the hospital.

Thanks for your hard work.
 
Don't Get Worried

If this is anything like the Kenny Brown 25th Anniversary event, it will all be about instruction. You need the Snell Helmet to get on course (and I'd be happy to loan mine out if I'm not using it), but a driver's suit is only a 'nice to have.' It is all about learning car control, and not a whole lot about racing or passing at this level.

For me, I kind of look at this like I looked at Tennis when I was in college. I wanted a lot of instruction to improve my game, so I took 'Beginning Tennis' for four semesters. Not because I wasn't improving, but because I wanted instruction. Then, because 'Intermediate Tennis' was about 50% play and 50% instruction, I took it for three semesters. Same reason - find a problem and fix it. I only took 'Advanced Tennis' my last semester, which was all play.

If we've got instructors available for this event at MVX, do you know what class I'll be in? Novice. I want all the instruction I can take, because it isn't always available, and I can always learn something. Each track teaches different lessons. My instructor will quickly find out my skill level, but I want to be in a group where I can get all the available lessons.

"Novice" groups means no passing, wide gaps between the cars, and lots of teaching. It isn't run like a race session, and if you feel you are nearing your limit and headed for the weeds, it's okay to slow down. First and foremost, you are there to learn.

Remember also, your teachers are racers that drive two, three or four events a month, all year long. Compared to them, I am definitely a Novice and will stay one until I get a purpose-built race car and take up that schedule.

Just be clear about your expectations and have a good time - you are learning what the car can do, and these skills definitely translate to daily driving.
 
If this is anything like the Kenny Brown 25th Anniversary event, it will all be about instruction. You need the Snell Helmet to get on course (and I'd be happy to loan mine out if I'm not using it), but a driver's suit is only a 'nice to have.' It is all about learning car control, and not a whole lot about racing or passing at this level.

For me, I kind of look at this like I looked at Tennis when I was in college. I wanted a lot of instruction to improve my game, so I took 'Beginning Tennis' for four semesters. Not because I wasn't improving, but because I wanted instruction. Then, because 'Intermediate Tennis' was about 50% play and 50% instruction, I took it for three semesters. Same reason - find a problem and fix it. I only took 'Advanced Tennis' my last semester, which was all play.

If we've got instructors available for this event at MVX, do you know what class I'll be in? Novice. I want all the instruction I can take, because it isn't always available, and I can always learn something. Each track teaches different lessons. My instructor will quickly find out my skill level, but I want to be in a group where I can get all the available lessons.

"Novice" groups means no passing, wide gaps between the cars, and lots of teaching. It isn't run like a race session, and if you feel you are nearing your limit and headed for the weeds, it's okay to slow down. First and foremost, you are there to learn.

Remember also, your teachers are racers that drive two, three or four events a month, all year long. Compared to them, I am definitely a Novice and will stay one until I get a purpose-built race car and take up that schedule.

Just be clear about your expectations and have a good time - you are learning what the car can do, and these skills definitely translate to daily driving.

Good job Mark! This is what you guys need to base your decisions on. This is a long course and has very few barriers. A lot of driving skills can be improved on. No one should be afraid to give this a try. As far as helmuts go I am sure that a few will be around for loan. Plenty of time to figure this out and you should look at it as a chance to have fun plus learn some new skills!:)
 
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But, as I learned, the chairs in the MM are pretty wide, and you'll need a dead pedal or something to push your butt into the seat and keep from sliding around.

And on pedal use: The preceding comment also make me think about pedal use. For a few of my first MM laps, I tried left foot braking and right foot acceleration. I couldn't do it - I needed my left foot to cram my butt into the seat to keep from sliding all over the place.

That's the one mod I'd recommend. I put in a Kenny Brown dead pedal about a month after driving around. I'm not sure if Kenny Brown still makes those dead pedals, but I have seen homegrown stuff on here with a block of wood and either skaters' tape and velcro.

For the sliding around, I'd recline the seat just enough so I can lock the belt after buckling, and then incline back up into it. I was also thinking of using two of those dashboard non-slide mats for cellphones, and setting an ass-cheek on each one.
 
First...A tip of my hat to Mark (NO4GL) for his most recent post. He says a lot and says it in a way I cannot polish those words. Listen to him, please?

Also, I noted a few posts of worry about collisions, damages to you, or your prized Marauder, and "novice" status. Gents, this is widely not the case. I've been doing this for a long time, and without any calamity.

Total up all the tracks and all the events staged in America and you will find very few collisions, or injuries to driver or car. Football and Hockey have severly worse safety records.

Not to say this is a "walk in the park" sport, if it's not a challenge, its not a sport, get me? However, it is well managed and closely goverened. Oherwise, there would be no race tracks, nor speaking of this sport. Calm down? It's going to be a lot of fun for y'all and you will have the best in instruction, safety, and management available to us.

Where does one purchase a Schnell helmet and/or driving suit?

Gordon, it's Snell, and the current spec is 2010. There will be a sticker of certification inside the helmet. Otherwise, there are hundereds of answers for you, all I can do is explain what I have done, and I feel I have done it with the upmost safety in mind. From here, it's your choice. Just trying to help. Feel free to call for more detailed 411.

My helmet is a Simpson FR Cruiser. Glossy black, 3/4 face and visor, its a 2005 spec. I purchased it from the Simpson website years ago for 299.00 plus shipping. When Mary asked me to advise her on a helmet, I ordered an identical helmet. It's a 2010 Snell spec. with the spec. printed on the outside. Same quality, updated spec., and same price. BTW, the 3/4 face is generous to eyewear, which Mary and I need. Her request was easy to answer.

My fire suits have been a Sparco level 1 in black, and a G-Force level 2 in yellow. After a few events, I wanted high visibility over style, just in case I ended up on foot on the pavement. I cannot remember exactly what I paid for them, but they were less expensive than my helmet. Expect 100 to 130 bucks for entry level suits, check JEGS or SUMMIT as resources. Order one size larger than the clothing you wear everyday, i.e. you wear a men's large shirt, order an extra-large suit.

My rationale for suggesting these low level suits is simple. It easier to suit up and get on the track, than it is to collect all the correct street wear, and wear that all day waiting for track time. No need to overheat yourself, eh? Moreover, street wear will have to be approved by track inspectors, and a race suit will make that quicker and easier. You can wear shorts and a tee shirt under a race suit and be comfortable all day long. And, you will have more uses for the suit, even when you are not on a track. Moreover, if you spend a lot of time on a drag strip, the suit will qualify (perhaps over-qualify) at that time.

I also did something else with my yellow suit, I started collecting signatures and autographs from the drivers and champions I have driven with. This makes my suit a bit of a "trophy" by itself as it chronicles where I've been and with whom. All of you are invited to sign my yellow suit at MVX, that will become quite a memory of these days for me.

My Shelby named "LuLu" ( present at Looseville 2008) is a purpose built race car with license plates. 800 HP, 6sp Tremec manual, 6 point cage and a full 5 point race harness from SIMPSON.

OTOH, my Shelby named "Lucy" (present at Looseville 2012) is a stock Shelby GT with 350 HP, auto tranny and a full compliment of Kenny Brown suspension. IMPACT 5 point race harnesses. Other than this, it's a stock car and I race her too.

Race harnesses may be important for some of you. A harness ties you to the seat (and the whole car) in a way the factory 3 point belt cannot accomplish. THIS IS NOT A NECESSARY UPGRADE. Leave it be until you are familiar with the sport, decide to do it more, and want to get a little better at it down the road (excuse the pun).

Okay...enough for now. I found myself on a roll and I apologize for the long post. Anyone with question are welcme to call me.

Y'all carry on, be safe.
Mac.
SergntMac@aol.com
312.401.1396
 
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