d/r vortech supercharger

i have a question though. my bap is one that does not need a control knob. and every write up is for the kenne bell. the wires coming out of it are the red wire connected to a fuse, an orange wire, black wire, and tiny brown wire. any idea which goes where.
 
i have a question though. my bap is one that does not need a control knob. and every write up is for the kenne bell. the wires coming out of it are the red wire connected to a fuse, an orange wire, black wire, and tiny brown wire. any idea which goes where.

Your BAP should have 2 heavier gauge red wires. One is the HOT to the BAP, the other is the HOT to the fuel pump. The 1 heavier gauge black wire is the ground.

As for the other wires coming out, 1 pair is for the controller knob, by wiring these together it makes the BAP run 100%. There is another pair of wires that go to a hobbs fuel pressure switch. Connecting these 2 wires also make it run 100% of the time.

If it is installed PRE FPDM you want it at 100% with no knob.
 
I prolly still have the emails too so i can look later and resend. Never hurts to have too much info even if duplicate. Ill help.with info etc as well. Pat has great info and the guys at Mos speed shop im sure would help with some info. Pm marty.he can prolly have brandon fab stuff up if needed. They have done alot of vortech work on marauders and mustangs. Marty treats us right and a huge asset to us.

Thanks again, Mark. I had forgotten about some of those emails.
 
I was at his shop 2 weeks ago to get my Marauder (with his Blow Through setup) tuned and am very pleased with out come. I've also had his A2A Vortech kit and it was a beast to say the least. The products speak for themselves.

We all know if you live near DR your result will differ from those out of state :shake:
 
DR Vortech Kit

I have a Vortech kit from Dennis. We worked out an air/water inter-cooled kit with the battery re-located to the trunk. The kit has great performance with near 800 rw hp. For all the details PM my son, loco1234. He has all the spec's and photos. Dennis now provides Paxton Novi air/air kits. He still provides and supports Vortech. Great guy, excellent support.

Gary
 
800

I have a Vortech kit from Dennis. We worked out an air/water inter-cooled kit with the battery re-located to the trunk. The kit has great performance with near 800 rw hp. For all the details PM my son, loco1234. He has all the spec's and photos. Dennis now provides Paxton Novi air/air kits. He still provides and supports Vortech. Great guy, excellent support.

Gary
800 RWHP ?? what ET's did you do & was that a stock motor ? :dunno: Just asking
 
I have a Vortech kit from Dennis. We worked out an air/water inter-cooled kit with the battery re-located to the trunk. The kit has great performance with near 800 rw hp. For all the details PM my son, loco1234. He has all the spec's and photos. Dennis now provides Paxton Novi air/air kits. He still provides and supports Vortech. Great guy, excellent support.

Gary

When was the last time Dennis worked on your MM?

WOW 800 RWHP :rolleyes:

This must a super duper new "SPECIAL" kit ;)

800 RWHP ?? what ET's did you do & was that a stock motor ? :dunno: Just asking

Uh, as I said earlier , I too have an original water to air "kit"--but not with a relocated battery---and what they say^^^^^^ above does seem to contradict
all known similiar "kits"...so some more specs would definiately help the growd here for sure--me being one --very curious about that 800?

Could you get the details and post them up or have him do it for us---Thanks
 
loco1234 did a lot of write ups on his set up, it was a long development process. Just search his posts.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1232041&highlight=supercharger#post1232041
11-02-2012, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Walsh View Post
..............

You'll need some BIG AZZ brakes to rein in 800 RWHP!!!!


Yah Last time the Maruder got dyno well well over a year ago & it was 623RWHP on pump gas & that was with the old Vortec Supercharger.. Now have installed a new JT -Trim & a few other mods... Some include improved intercooling etc... SO the Dyno session is coming up but I expect a good 100+RWHP increase thus 800RWHP give or take.. Pump gas... in PA is 93 for Super... There are a few Sunoco's that offer 94 octane at the pump but I don't dyno tune to that...

Thus I have been planning once money is avail to order & install a big Arse brake upgrade... so curious if this new one is better than the previous 6 piston setup...

I run the 6 piston Wilwood setup on a 65 Ac cobra w/ a 427 SOHC "Cammer" motor (all AL) so I know they have stopping power... However I use a wide 6 piston setup...
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Thanks for the above post with the info----

Taken from it---" Now have installed a new JT -Trim & a few other mods..."
explains a whole lot vs what I have -----yep, nothing like some details....thanks again--
 
I have a Vortech kit from Dennis. We worked out an air/water inter-cooled kit with the battery re-located to the trunk. The kit has great performance with near 800 rw hp. For all the details PM my son, loco1234. He has all the spec's and photos. Dennis now provides Paxton Novi air/air kits.
He still provides and supports Vortech. Great guy, excellent support.

Gary

After plenty of R&D via Greg at F.I.T. .....:shake:
 
800 rw hp

Folks,

My Marauder is not a drag car. I am an old Ford mule driver. Long before Sprint Cup the factory teams did R&D racing on the Saturday before the big race free of charge for the folks. That is my driving experience and how I like to run.

My best advise is to set a goal and a budget for your build. Then get smart, read, study, ask advise, then set a plan.

Here is a short list of findings;

1. our aluminum block can handle the same horse power and pressures as the aluminator block
2. get a kellog crank, do not stroke it rather over bore your cylinders by .30, mathmatically this is a perfect stroke to bore ratio for your new 5.0 engine
3. our cams are excellent with stage 3 porting and plolishing for our heads, I used fox racing
4. valves and retainers need to be upgraded to handle over 6500 rpm, mine can hadle 7500 rpm without valve float
5. install a Melling high volume, not high pressure oil pump
6. install a head cooling cross-over kit
7. every type supercharger or turbo charger benefits most with air/water intercooling. The needed radiator and fans will fit up front on the Marauder
8. get the Jmod trans upgrade for your tranny
9. have your new CP or Diamond pistons top ceramic coated and side skirts slip coated. This will enable a nominal cylinder compression ratio up to 10.5/1 even if boosted. Ceramic coatings suppress detonation
10. for drag racing use Maley H beam rods, for track racing use Oliver light weight I beam rods. Always have your rotating assembly fully balanced
11. modify your suspension and drive line for your intended use, Drag or track. I run track at Pocono International Raceway therefore I have a track set up. It consists of Adco F&R sway bars, Zack&Mac upper and lower control arms , metco watts ling with 50% of the bushings being delrin, moser 32 spline axels, Detroit True Trac differential, factory rear ratio, balanced composite drive shaft.

Yes there is a Santa. I regularly run down and out corner Ferrari's, Lamborginni's, and Maserati's. Not bad for a taxi cab/police cruiser.

This is my two cents based up experience and proven performance. By the way, I get 23 mpg at 75 mph on the highway

There are many other mods that can be done. This is only a short list.

Regards,
Gary
 
Folks,

My Marauder is not a drag car. I am an old Ford mule driver. Long before Sprint Cup the factory teams did R&D racing on the Saturday before the big race free of charge for the folks. That is my driving experience and how I like to run.

My best advise is to set a goal and a budget for your build. Then get smart, read, study, ask advise, then set a plan.

Yes there is a Santa. I regularly run down and out corner Ferrari's, Lamborginni's, and Maserati's. Not bad for a taxi cab/police cruiser.

This is my two cents based up experience and proven performance. By the way, I get 23 mpg at 75 mph on the highway

There are many other mods that can be done. This is only a short list.

Regards,
Gary

Preach it man
 
Gary, enjoy your ride, would love to see you in action one day. No disrespect directed at you its the other person (DR) that i know is a crook.
 
Jflave,

I respectfully disagree.

Regards,
Gary

Gary you may wanna check out some old threads in the vendor review forum and you will understand why he feels that way. Plus way too many members have had negative experiences in dealing with him. Just consider yourself lucky that you had a positive experience.
 
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