Stroker Short Block Project with Centri SC

I doubt very seriously that Livernois will come close to MMRs prices , cheap and Livernois cannot coexist!
 
I picked up my heads today from the machine shop. The heads look good after cleaning, resurfacing, and a three angle valve job. I am excited to have them back, but bummed I still don't have my short block. Here are a few pics

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Here are some pics of the 8-rib pulleys. But for the Innovators West 10% OD balancer, the parts for this conversion are inexpensive.

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Alternator Pulley:
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A/C Pulley:
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Water Pump Pulley (no shoulder). It fits the long neck water pump. Marauders have the short neck pump:
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Power Steering Pump Pulley:
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My block showed up today! I unpacked it, put it on a stand and got started with assembly.
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Head gaskets installed
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Long neck water pump installed. Heads are just sitting on top, partially secured.
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why risk it and waste time with fuel lines with possible issues off a wrecked mm when new line would be less expensive, easier to use, and route. than trying to work with old possible damaged lines. my 2 cents. but to me fuel lines seems a place not to risk being "cheap".
my 2 cents
 
why risk it and waste time with fuel lines with possible issues off a wrecked mm when new line would be less expensive, easier to use, and route. than trying to work with old possible damaged lines. my 2 cents. but to me fuel lines seems a place not to risk being "cheap".
my 2 cents


Craig, sorry I messed up your response. I changed the question, probably at the same time you were responding. It used to mention pulling fuel lines from the wrecked car. I agree with you. Too much work anyway. I think I'll spend the money on new lines. I just need to learn more about this and what lines/size to buy.


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I thought the post got changed, I read it and it's an interesting concept using the evap line because if it's 1/2" OD because that would be equivalent to -8 hose and wouldn't be too hard to put flares on it to change to hose. I wounded if the tube is still available from Ford new? And what it would cost?
 
I wanted to go with them but they were (fuel line) just too much money, so I am going with these guys TechAFX
 
I ran -8 through the frame with foam insulation.


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Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
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I thought the post got changed, I read it and it's an interesting concept using the evap line because if it's 1/2" OD because that would be equivalent to -8 hose and wouldn't be too hard to put flares on it to change to hose. I wounded if the tube is still available from Ford new? And what it would cost?


Sorry I caused confusion when I edited the earlier post. Using the evap line from the wrecked car sounded like a good idea until I started looking at the labor involved. I guess it wouldn't be too bad if one were to install a hard line only in the straight section.

I wanted to go with them but they were (fuel line) just too much money, so I am going with these guys TechAFX


blkZooM, I looked TechAFX up. They have various options. Which one are you going with? I noticed their minimum bent radius is at around 5".

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Here is the price for the Pegasus braided PTFE fuel line for quick comparison. Min radius is 1.5" on the -8 AN line.

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http://http://www.techafx.com/content/8-blackwrap-ss-braided-teflon%C2%AE-hose-20-length

thats what i plan on going with

I guess if you feel you will need tight bends Pegasus is the route to goI would guess, but I don't see us really needed any crazy bends when routing our fuel lines the right fittings should take care of that

But incase you still would like to go with them read this thread http://http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1037735-Is-Pegasus-Auto-Racing-the-best-place-for-build-it-yourself-BLACK-teflon-fuel-lines&p=14536633
 
I have -8 Jegs braided lines works fine , and no fuel smell , thats all you need.
 
Questions with Return Fuel System

Going return fuel system is looking more and more likely. I've done a bit of reading, but I still don't understand certain things. Can you guys help me with these questions.

  1. Would I need to change fuel rails? Something about the FRPS (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor) that I don't understand. Or is it that our fuel rails have a "dead end"?
    • If I do need to change fuel rails, I read that CPR makes rails for the Marauder, but need to be modified and that they push into the injectors causing fuel leaks....
    • I was thinking maybe using Cobra rails, but it sounded like these have the FRPS on the wrong side (?)
  2. Is it best to modify a fuel tank hat or to buy something already made for a return setup? I am considering the Walbro 400.
  3. Would I wire the new pump in the same manner as the old? It seems it okay to leave the FPDM (Fuel Pump Drive Module) connected b/c this gets removed in the tune.
Thanks!
 
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