trailering car to shop, have a few questions

S

sflrainmaker01

RescuRauder
Hey, I am trailering my car approx 2 hours to the shop that is going to work on my car. What is the best way to strap down the car to the car trailer? It is an open trailer with a full floor that has 4 welded strap hooks on each corner. The guy that lent me the trailer says to put some rags in the wheels and strap the car to the trailer through each wheel.
 
You can strap the wheels with a special soft strap made specifically for that, or you can simply hook the two engine mount holes (bottom of K member) for the front. For the rear I use the two small holes in the bottom of the frame under the rear doors and crisscross the straps to avoid rubbing on anything. I’ve left it in gear and in neutral for many hours and never an issue. I use good quality 2” ratchet straps cut down to the exact length I need.

Just make sure to retighten the straps a few miles from home once she settles.


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My opinion- here is what I do:

I always crisscross --in a -X- type strapping. Thru the wheels with the straps=
This is left rear wheel to right rear trailer hook point and right rear wheel to left rear hook point.
Same for front wheels to their opposite front hook points.




This keeps car from jumping from springing on trailer to either side and stays in place--NEVER FRONT TO BACK STRAPPING-
 
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I worry about hooking up to the frame since the suspension will be moving when going over bumps etc. Just don't want the straps to come loose. I used to go around the axle housing years ago, but with the brake lines etc, makes me nervous. That's why I thought the wheel idea seemed to accomplish hooking up to an unsprung (no suspension) part of the car at all four corners. My wheels aren't perfect. Is there some other reason I shouldn't do this?

Oh, I just saw Marauderman's post. That sounds good.
 
I’ve towed mine across many states many times and never a problem with suspension or car movement. Crank it down like you don’t want to lose it.. Tighten again in 5-10 miles, set cruise, and fogetaboutit.

As for crisscrossing (like I do on the rear and mentioned above) be careful as some states it’s apparently illegal and they will write you up on it so I’ve read.


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You prolly don't want to secure it by the wheels only. I would think that would allow the full weight of the car to bounce up and down and might create stability issues.

Of course, I could be wr- wr- wr...
 
Wheels are a bad idea, depending on where the strap goes through the wheel. If a wheel moves, you have a loose strap, and a loose car.

Hookups with straps, do not use straps with metal hooks, they will bend, they are not designed for the weight of a car, let alone one bouncing on a car trailer.

Use hooks and straps designed to go into the torque box’s on the frame, depending on the trailer, if it has rub rails, you can use a wheel strap that goes around the top of the tire, comes out on each side and hooks to the rub rail.

In my case, I have aircraft track welded to my deck and use Mac’s wheel nets on each wheel, but without seeing the trailer, it’s tough to tell you what type strap to use.

Then you have to figure tongue weight, electric brakes, etc.

Copied off Mac's website........

Tie-Down Tricks


Inspection and Maintenance Tips

Inspection: Always inspect straps prior to each use. Webbing that is cut, frayed or abraded should be replaced immediately. Mac's offers rewebbing services for used assemblies as well. Just give us a call or email for info.

Never use any oils, solvents, acids, etc. on the webbing itself. When necessary only lube the mechanical workings of a ratchet or cam buckle with a lightweight lube such as WD-40.

Exposure to Sunlight: Even though Mac's uses only top quality webbing with UV protection to make assemblies, sunlight is still a killer. When not in use, don't leave your straps laying around on the deck of your trailer in the sunlight. Ideally, store them in a cool dry location. This will greatly prolong the life of your straps.

Routing: Be careful of how your straps are routed. Avoid sharp edges or abrasive surfaces whenever possible. If this cannot be done, make sure you add some protection between the webbing and the surface in question. Keep in mind that Mac's offers straps with sleeve protector already in place.

Cleaning your Straps: Warm, soapy water and a good scrub brush is the best method. Once the cleaning is complete, hang the straps up to air dry. Avoid cleansers with bleach or acid as these will weaken the webbing.


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I've always just strapped it down with good ratchet straps to the front suspension and rear axle. If you get a good solid attachment point anywhere you'll be fine. Like bob said, always double check the straps after driving a short distance. Once I rented a Uhaul trailer and all it came with was the front straps that go completely over the front tires. I added two straps to the rear axle and all was good.
 
blazen71 said:
I've always just strapped it down with good ratchet straps to the front suspension and rear axle. If you get a good solid attachment point anywhere you'll be fine. Like bob said, always double check the straps after driving a short distance. Once I rented a Uhaul trailer and all it came with was the front straps that go completely over the front tires. I added two straps to the rear axle and all was good.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the replies! I'm sure I will get ragged on, but, I put straps on the 4 wheels and I did what Bob suggested and ran the X straps in the frame holes in front of the rear tires to the back hooks. The night before, after airing up the tires, I took it for a local test drive with the car on the trailer and it rode good. I made a couple minor adjustments. Double checked everything before I left this am and after about 30 minutes down the road, I triple checked everything and it rode perfect and no issues the rest of the way. One thing about southwest Florida, is the interstates are smooth, no bumps and the only hills are the overpasses, lol. Next....BOOST!!!!
 
No ragging here! A bit of overkill but load stayed put and that’s all that matters.

Best to ask for suggestions from others who’ve towed this vehicle than to guess. Mine isn’t a trailer queen, I just tend to have fun on outings and drive it like it was built for. If something breaks, load her up, enjoy the Lariat on the way home, spend more money at earliest leisure. [emoji16]

I finally learned my lesson one night at the drag strip out of state on a school night with the wife and kids... [emoji6]


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Never hurts to ask.
Little late now but I have short straps with metal loops on the end for strapping the vehicle down by the wheels. I run a 2" strap through the loops and over the top of the tire. Have to watch that the metal loops don't bite the wheels or pinch a valve stem. I put them on all 4 wheels. Have never had anything move on me including delivering a car to long island (3-4 hr drive), or on a slippery rollback bed at a previous job.
 
BAD MERC said:
Ratchet straps over the trunk lid and over the hood should do. Try not to smoosh the wipers.
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Don't you have to crank them down really tight to keep them from moving around if a big bump causes the suspension to bottom out? Likewise on the upstroke don't you risk paint or metal damage. I have only ever trailered something on a U-Haul dolly where the front wheels were restrained on the dolly and the back wheels of course just trail along, so I am no expert on this. I only raise the point out of curiosity.

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justbob said:
No ragging here! A bit of overkill but load stayed put and that’s all that matters.

Best to ask for suggestions from others who’ve towed this vehicle than to guess. Mine isn’t a trailer queen, I just tend to have fun on outings and drive it like it was built for. If something breaks, load her up, enjoy the Lariat on the way home, spend more money at earliest leisure. [emoji16]

I finally learned my lesson one night at the drag strip out of state on a school night with the wife and kids... [emoji6]


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Thanks Bob! I hear ya! If I was still living up north, where my lot was a lot larger, I would probably spring for my own trailer. But, here, lots are small but it's ocean access, year 'round boating and car shows! So, I'll take the smaller lot and have to borrow a trailer, lol. But, I know this BOOST thing starts small and the build can go from mild to wild in a hurry. I'll try to "break it in easy". The first mission, when its done, is meet my unsuspecting son at the local 1/8th mile track with his SRT Challenger 392 and give him a lil Marauder size suprise! :burnout:

BAD MERC said:
Ratchet straps over the trunk lid and over the hood should do. Try not to smoosh the wipers.
Click to expand...

You've got to be kidding....:rolleyes::shake: Thanks for your contribution.
 
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