no crank getting desperate,,,

M

malibill

New member
Hi Bill here , have a problem with my 2003 marauder I took it out for a spin ran great no problems parked in driveway came back out an hour later and tuned key all dash lights came on but would not crank when you turned key to engage starter?? I checked the battery only a few months old had more than the 12 volts needed and then started to check everything else.. I have 12 volts at the starter pretty new only a few months old changed the neutral safety switch , the ignition switch checked the solenoid wire coming off the starter to the pdb under the hood all good checked the starter relay also good and can start the car no problem by turning ignition on and removing starter relay and jumping from 12 volt side of rely to the solenoid side and it will crank and start no problem??.. I have checked every fuse and relay with a test light and physical removed and inspected them both in the pdb under hood and fuse box located under dash panel.. Short of installing a push button I am not sure what else it could be??. The car is basically un molested wring has the factory security system that appears to be working it will lock and unlock doors and trunk as it should d do when you turn ignition on with key the light for the security system on the stops blinking.. I am pretty sure that is normal I really do want to install a starter button but the only way of starting it is to jump to relay .. It is only failing in the crank position I have tried both keys and both remotes the remotes only control the doors and trunk as far as i know no remote start or anything like that .. The wires in the car look like brand new and no splices anywhere I also checked all the grounds that I could find and they are all clean and no corrosion.. I spoke with mustang ed as we live pretty close and he is very knowledgably on the marauders and he feels that I have tried just about everything he would?? At a loss here I really do not want to splice into harness if I do not have to but running out of options any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.. It takes me a while to get back to anybody as I am not good on pc and my son is a way he normally helps out . just letting you know in advance not being rude just a little slow lol, (on the computer lol).. Thanks in advance and thanks to Ed he has been helping me as much as he can I do appreciate all the help I can get.. Bill
 
Check your PATS fuse. I had that happen to me while on a short drive in my silver just after acquiring it.
I stopped and when I came back the car was dead.
Found out it was a blown fuse.


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Also make sure the car is in park or neutral. Your gear shift could be off a 1/2 gear when shifting. (My black has that problem)


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no crank

BLACKMARAUDER04 said:
Check your PATS fuse. I had that happen to me while on a short drive in my silver just after acquiring it.
I stopped and when I came back the car was dead.
Found out it was a blown fuse.


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Click to expand...
Thanks I believe i checked every fuse I could find ?? not sure which fuse it is but I will go over them again .. I tried moving the shifter also made sure it was in park and checked it in every position .. It is crazy.. ,but thank you for the advice..,
 
yes, everything seems to be working as it should when i tun to ignition on the pump primes I open the hood and jump the relay and it will fire right up..,
 
I replaced the switch that mounts to the Colum with a known working switch when i had it out i had it plugged into the harness and tried it it would power the dash and do as it should but when you move it to the crank position nothing .. Unless you are referring to the key cylinder itself but the test I did when it was unbolted from the column should have made the engine crank?? Thanks for the input..
 
went over all the fuses and relays again all test good, was hoping I missed something, but no such luck will keep trying lol thanks again
 
I know you said you tried cranking in each shifter position, but try holding the key to crank continuously while cycling all shifter positions.... just grasping at straws here, but you never know.

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svtmerc said:
I know you said you tried cranking in each shifter position, but try holding the key to crank continuously while cycling all shifter positions.... just grasping at straws here, but you never know.

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Thanks yes gave that a shot also nothing even tried moving the neutral safety switch a little still nothing but Thank you..
 
malibill said:
yes, everything seems to be working as it should when i tun to ignition on the pump primes I open the hood and jump the relay and it will fire right up..,
Click to expand...

Don't know much about cars/electronics, but when you say you 'jump' the relay, is this the same as bypassing it? If the only time the car will start is when you 'jump' the relay, then I would think the relay itself is bad or what it connects to is not providing a solid connection.

Just taking a shot in the dark with my limited knowledge...sometimes it takes a simple mind to find the simple solution...lol.
 
Thanks relay is good only three wires under the relay 1 is for 12volts that works 2nd wire is directly to solenoid on starter i jump from 12 volts to solenoid and car will start with key in the on position .. The third and last wire is I am guessing from the computer and gives it a signal to allow it to engage starter I am not getting any power or signal at that wire I am trying to find a diagram for wiring but have not located that wire yet...
 
Relays are basically electrically-operated switches. Usually they have (4) wires. Sometimes 5.
(2) of the wires would be the high current circuit, the other (2) wires are what activate the switch.
Wire 1 = 12v high current into relay
Wire 2 = 12v high current out of relay
Wire 3 = 12 low current to activate relay (trigger wire)
Wire 4 = ground to activate relay

Most relays have a diagram on them that should describe the circuit and which legs do what.
 
See if the PCM isn’t actually sending a ground signal instead of a positive to trigger the relay.

Never heard of a 3 legged relay? Like stated a four or five.

Only three things I can think of assuming the relay is in fact good. (I’m trusting you swapped with another)

1) a 100% bad range selector switch or wiring from it to PCM. However I’ve never seen one fail in both neutral and park positions.

2) a bad PCM but doubtful

3) a broken ground in the starting circuitry.

How many tabs are on the actual relay? It wouldn’t be the first I’ve seen where the wiring came loose and dropped inside the fuse box. I’ve seen it at least twice on cooling fan relays that got a tad too warm.

You could really use the help of alldatadyi.com and it’s easy to navigate diagrams and definitely a powerprobe.


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Yes , you are correct I re checked and the relay does have four wires and they are all tight and free of corrosion in pdb I was able to get a better look by loosing the harness that goes down by the inner fender .. I did switch the relays out with know working relays and also a few new ones I had .. I also re checked the grounds that I could find one is right by the battery also under the on the drivers side by the lift rod and they are clean tight connections and free of any corrosion.. really not sure what to do at this point I think I have exhausted all possibilities with my limited abilities and scanning equipment I really appreciate all the help any advice I have been receiving I think it is going to turn out to be something that I am just simply missing?? Hopefully I will get to the bottom of failure and repair it but for now I will just use the starter button as i would like to drive the car..
 
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