Homemade Eaton Kit: Finished w/pics!

Mr. lincolnpimp, I admire your desire to make this kit work, but Im pretty sure you are in for a let down with the parts you are using.

Without the Alternator bracket in front of me, I cant say for sure if it will work or not, but Im inclined to say it most definitely will not.
On that ljmo bracket, it uses a different alternator and mounts it sideways, and there is no provision for an idler pulley on it, which is absoultely essential.

As for the Pulley bridge you bought from the cobra, that will 100% not work because it will interfere with the alternator on the drivers side.

If you can somehow make it work, great.
Do not waste money and spin your wheels chasing after something that will lead to a dead end. (which im pretty sure it is, sorry)
 
lincolnpimp said:
Spacers to get it away from the stock belt tensioner and mount it to the heads. Its quite a big piece
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If you look how the belt tensioner mounts to the pulley bridge, you will notice it is fairly horizontal.

If you look at our bracket, you will notice it is mainly vertical.

There is no way the pulley bridge will work unless you use all the pulleys (thus the name) from the Cobra.
 
Also, you cant space the pulley bridge away from the timing cover, because the belt tensioner will no longer line up with the blower belt.
 
I have individually set up the above parts and with some mods, have bolted things up and it seems to be do-able. I DO realize that much work will be needed to bring it all togther, but I'm up for it!!!

How did you make the boost bypass vacuum valve work correctly on your set up?
 
This is the Cobra pulley bridge.
With the alternator on the drivers side, it just wont work.
DSCN5106.jpg
 
You will need an idler pulley to make this work, as seen below:
 

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lincolnpimp said:
How did you make the boost bypass vacuum valve work correctly on your set up?
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The electric solenoid on the Cobra is so that the PCM can "dump" boost when it sees something it doesn't like, like low fuel pressure or engine overheat or something of the likes. It is not essential on a custom setup. You just hook the bypass valve hose to vacuum/boost and leave the solenoid out of the equation. If I am off base, I appologize, but I don't believe I am.
 
BlownMerc said:
The electric solenoid on the Cobra is so that the PCM can "dump" boost when it sees something it doesn't like, like low fuel pressure or engine overheat or something of the likes. It is not essential on a custom setup. You just hook the bypass valve hose to vacuum/boost and leave the solenoid out of the equation. If I am off base, I appologize, but I don't believe I am.
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I dont even know what the hell you guys are talking about, but I sure as
***** dont have one on my car :D
 
Straight from the Ford PCED:
The Supercharger Bypass (SCB) System allows the high pressure air at the outlet of the supercharger to vent back in the inlet of the supercharger, equalizing the pressure. This eliminates the boost (increased pressure that a supercharger produces) for times when supercharger function is undesirable. The components in this system are the vacuum bypass actuator (Figure 125) (which controls the bypass valve inside the supercharger), a supercharger (boost) bypass (SCB) solenoid (Figure 126) and a vacuum reservoir (Figure 127). The system normally operates with engine vacuum applied to the upper port of the vacuum bypass actuator, while the lower port references the air pressure in the clean air tube to cancel out any pressure difference in the intake air system. The actuator is set to open (bypassing the supercharger) during high vacuum engine conditions. As the throttle is opened, and engine vacuum decreases, the actuator closes to allow the supercharger to pressurize the air in the manifold. If an undesirable condition occurs in the engine, such as overheating or a critical Electric Engine Control (Electronic EC) sensor failure, the powertrain control module (PCM) also has the ability to control the SCB solenoid and direct the vacuum bypass actuator to bypass the supercharger. Once the engine condition has been corrected, the PCM allows the engine vacuum to control the vacuum bypass actuator.
 
Wow. You guys are willing to spend $179 for the alternator bracket and $325 for the bridge bracket, then rig it up because it won't just bolt in place and work. That's over $500 for something that you MIGHT be able to make work. Just to keep from paying Zack $600 for something that has actually worked on more than one car.
 
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FordNut said:
Wow. You guys are willing to spend $179 for the alternator bracket and $325 for the gridge bracket, then rig it up because it won't just bolt in place and work. That's over $500 for something that you MIGHT be able to make work. Just to keep from paying Zack $600 for something that has actually worked on more than one car.
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I thought the same thing :D

KillJoy
 
I would love to pay Zack $600 for brackets, and would to it right this very minute if he had them available....but it is my understanding that he can only have them made in lots of 10, and there for he would need ten buyers! Anyone else want some, call Zack!!! Then I'll send my $600 over right now!!!
 
lincolnpimp said:
I would love to pay Zack $600 for brackets, and would to it right this very minute if he had them available....but it is my understanding that he can only have them made in lots of 10, and there for he would need ten buyers! Anyone else want some, call Zack!!! Then I'll send my $600 over right now!!!
Click to expand...

You and I make 2, we need 8 more, how about a GB? Otherwise, it's 6k for a marketed version.
 
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