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I just installed my set from that eBayer and now just need to align the beam... seems to be pointing directly down in front of the bumper when installed as-is out of the box.

I'm pulling from my memory of the book "Car: A Drama of the American Workplace" by Mary Walton, check out this link What did we ever do without Google???? shudder to think. :D

In the world of car design, the sail panel is the little triangle on the front doors where your outside mirrors are mounted. The chunk of metal behind a car's rear window is a C-pillar. There are just about as many industry-specific oddball terms for car design as there are for ships and...

I fabricated a new tab out of a leftover block of PVC (buy it as base molding from Lowes), and epoxied it onto the switch panel. I don't see the point in trying to re-glue the flimsy plastic tab.

A friend to all Panther fans, Ned Nuss. There have been lots of times that I could have used his advice in the four years he has been gone.

If mine was a Silver Birch this would have already been done :D but I can't bring myself to black out the wheels on a black/dark car. I know some blackchrome is more like a deep dark silver, but US Wheel Exchange "can't guarantee" how dark they will come out.

Mmmm very pretty; sweet garage too. I'd be super tempted to buy this and transfer my Trilogy onto it.... but then I would have to buy a daily driver because this is too nice! GLWS

I figure there is no way to avoid at least some leftover fluid, so I have never bothered with the expense of ABS cycling during a bleed. However, the expense of speed bleeders has been a worthwhile investment.

Hey! liquid@superford.org that used to be me before superford started charging for email addresses! Thanks for the blast from the past. http://moldyrabbit.com/liquid/index.html

All wheels come from a factory, somewhere :P j/k the guys are right, if you want a FoMoCo wheel you have to get it from your dealership or FRPP. Do a google product search for "M-1007-M188P"... get a set of four wheels from Jegs for only $1,833.95 plus shipping. The real lesson here is...

The edelbrock sounds muted on their website audio clips. Also it is NOT stainless steel.

These things were all over Gratiot during last Sunday's cruise.

Doesn't say what bearings are inside it... The Timken 513196 is similarly priced across the web and is a known bearing manufacturer--maybe even the OEM for Panthers, I don't know.

I should have known to check your site... thanks

Yes! Now that I know the thread sizes, I can start looking for fittings. I've already found the M12x1.0 and 7/16-24 nuts at NapaOnline (BK_6413325 and BK_6413298). Total so far $4.36+tax :cool4: The line lock adapter fitting I think I will get from FedHill (their AD4br will take my 7/16-24...

She's a keeper :D

The solenoid will not be seeing any more pressure than it would in its usual setup. You just have to plumb it backwards. The typical setup is perfect for a standing burnout; such as a water box: The car stays in one place while the back tires roast and roast. Plumbing it into the rear line...

If I hit the button while my foot is off the pedal, the rear brakes will be disabled. It's been done before and I think it will work well for me.

Right, I know the typical installation is on front brakes. I want the ability to temporarily disable the rear brakes.

I did some rough measurements using a cheap caliper and a thin piece of masonite (loosen the nut enough to get the masonite in, tap on the edge of the masonite to make a thread impression, then measure the impression). It looks like both threads might be M12x1.0.