fastblackmerc
Everything Marauder, LEDs & HI
Correct... and you know it will fail for good when you need it the most.
15S39 LCM Bypass Recall - Documented
- Thread starter Logizyme
- Start date
Correct... and you know it will fail for good when you need it the most.
Dragcity
Buffalo Joe
It lives just above the OBDII port. Steel braket above it. Two 7 MM screws, Just need a nut driver, no rachet required. Three connectors in back Two grey ones come out easy. Then wiggle, force the thing out by pushing toward the fire wall and outward toward the driver side. Its in there..... Then you can dnagle it down to get the black plug from the white connector. That one is a pain. Has a little push tab in the middel that needs to be depressed. Gotta pull pretty hard to dislodge, while depressing the release tab.
JUST pulled mine out.
JUST pulled mine out.
fastblackmerc
Everything Marauder, LEDs & HI
You will have a 50-50 chance of getting one that works.
The LCM is about the size of a brick.
Located just to the right of the steering column by the OBDII connector.
There are 3 electrical connectors and two 7mm screws.
I'll pay $20.00 each for LCMs.
Last edited:
Svashtar
Trying to get it right...
So, if it fails, do you recommend replacing it, or rebuilding it with your suggested upgrades?
IIRC, after the underbody lighting kit was installed I started getting a "bzzzz" sound when the interior lights dimmed and went out, after getting in and out of the car.
That tells me a relay is opening and closing rapidly, but don't know if that has anything to do with the LCM.
Svashtar
Trying to get it right...
It's real obvious. When I tucked the extra cable away for my ScanGauge to the side of the ODB port you could look up and see it.
Lot's of boxes yes, but this is large and right there, so you won't easily confuse it with anything else.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RF Overlord
73 is the best number.
Mark, it's really pretty obvious...it's right above the DLC (Data Link Connector), more commonly known as the OBD port. Looks like a black plastic brick. Run the adjustable pedals all the way down and you can manoeuvre it out.
RF Overlord
73 is the best number.
Good luck with that. You're taking a chance that the one from the yard is not just as bad as the one you have. Better to send yours to FBM or replace the relays yourself if you have circuit board repair experience.
Marauderjack
Senior Member
I had mine replaced under warranty in 2005....turn signals went out!!:argue:
That "warranty replacement" was later sent to "fastblackmerc" after he sent me one he had already repaired....still works PERFECTLY!!:beer::bows:
Just got a "Recall Letter" from Ford to replace the one they replaced in 2005 but........at 263,000 miles I think they might just laugh!!
Thanks again Jim!!:up::up:
That "warranty replacement" was later sent to "fastblackmerc" after he sent me one he had already repaired....still works PERFECTLY!!:beer::bows:
Just got a "Recall Letter" from Ford to replace the one they replaced in 2005 but........at 263,000 miles I think they might just laugh!!
Thanks again Jim!!:up::up:
fastblackmerc
Everything Marauder, LEDs & HI
I had mine replaced under warranty in 2005....turn signals went out!!:argue:
That "warranty replacement" was later sent to "fastblackmerc" after he sent me one he had already repaired....still works PERFECTLY!!:beer::bows:
Just got a "Recall Letter" from Ford to replace the one they replaced in 2005 but........at 263,000 miles I think they might just laugh!!
Thanks again Jim!!:up::up:
Your welcome!
Glad I could help out!
N40GL
Open Channel 'D'
Thanks, Bob. Jim sent me a picture (or a link to an EBay picture). At least now I know that all the connectors are on the end of the "mystery box" and about what it looks like. That's what I needed to help my visualization before I dive in there tomorrow and retrieve it.
Mark
Mark
BAD MERC
Active member
That's an interesting fix and a very detailed post. I fixed mine before it failed. I used a Ford relay (slightly smaller than a Bosch) and it fit within the LCM where it can be closed and appear untouched. I don't want prying fingers on mine anyway due to the doors/trunk/horn/domelight connections made for the security system at the LCM. Seems like more work than installing a whole NEW revised LCM.
Svashtar
Trying to get it right...
I didn't think that of course mine has also been modified with all that stuff for the alarm. I'm pretty much boned if it ever fails.
What was it I heard on TV before I walked into the showroom in 2004? Oh yeah, I remember: "Ford, Quality is Job 1!" [emoji6]
In fairness though, of the 14 times I've taken it back to the dealer, none of the repairs have been for anything related to the drivetrain, always peripheral items. Like LCM, door switches, radios, plastic trim, door panels, fuel gauge, axles, center console, pedals, glove box, etc., etc.
What was it I heard on TV before I walked into the showroom in 2004? Oh yeah, I remember: "Ford, Quality is Job 1!" [emoji6]
In fairness though, of the 14 times I've taken it back to the dealer, none of the repairs have been for anything related to the drivetrain, always peripheral items. Like LCM, door switches, radios, plastic trim, door panels, fuel gauge, axles, center console, pedals, glove box, etc., etc.
Last edited:
BAD MERC
Active member
It can be unplugged without tampering with aftermarket connections. Next time your Merc has some downtime send the LCM to me and I'll do the repair and ship it back for the price of postage.
Svashtar
Trying to get it right...
Damn, thank you! That's really decent of you, but I'll at least add in for a case of beer for your trouble. I'll shoot you a PM and work out a time that works before too long. I figure it's probably overdue at 12 years now.
Thanks again! [emoji1531]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks again! [emoji1531]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
gdmjoe
Member
Could you some help ,
I could use some help on this subject. I apologize, I have a 2003 Grand Marquis LS. For 3 years I struggled with the headlights not working. I received the notice but my VIN was not on the list and they wanted $800 to replace the module. 2 years ago I replaced the relay for the headlights and all working again. I received another recall letter this time it was for my VIN. I have also been struggling with rear tail lights needing me to tap the LCM to work. My overhead lights occasional worked.
When I got the letter from Ford I thought they where going to replace the module. When the job was done they told me they did a bypass. All of my other issues where still present. I had to tap the LCM to get the rear lights to work.
2 weeks later I loss my blinkers, instrument dash lighting, The one light that comes on when the door opens stopped working. My panic button that would make the horn go in panic mode stopped. The horm that would beep when I would lock the door with the key fob stopped making the beep at lock. It might easier to say the only lights that work are the headlights (which was not a problem since I replaced the relay) and my break lights.This Wed I am having the Ford dealer confirm everything they did is still good. If they say it is good we talked about places that will repair the LCM. I want to confirm what they did is not faulty work explainng all these new problems like my blinkers stopped working, instrument dashboard lights (no longer light up or allow diming with control) and the fact that tapping the LCM no longer allows the rear lights to come on could be due to an issue with their worked performed. I'm in worse shaped since the bypass.
If they say their work is good, should I be able to remove the LCM like I did a few years back or will the LCM bypass for the headlights be an issue for me to remove the LCM and do the relay replacments?
Whats your thoughts on faulty work causing the new problems.
The new problems happened within 2 weeks of their work.
Thank you for any info and I apologize for the 2003 Grand Marquis. This This forum was the closet article on the bypass I could fine. I would be happy to speak with anyone offline if it would be more helpful.
Ken
I could use some help on this subject. I apologize, I have a 2003 Grand Marquis LS. For 3 years I struggled with the headlights not working. I received the notice but my VIN was not on the list and they wanted $800 to replace the module. 2 years ago I replaced the relay for the headlights and all working again. I received another recall letter this time it was for my VIN. I have also been struggling with rear tail lights needing me to tap the LCM to work. My overhead lights occasional worked.
When I got the letter from Ford I thought they where going to replace the module. When the job was done they told me they did a bypass. All of my other issues where still present. I had to tap the LCM to get the rear lights to work.
2 weeks later I loss my blinkers, instrument dash lighting, The one light that comes on when the door opens stopped working. My panic button that would make the horn go in panic mode stopped. The horm that would beep when I would lock the door with the key fob stopped making the beep at lock. It might easier to say the only lights that work are the headlights (which was not a problem since I replaced the relay) and my break lights.This Wed I am having the Ford dealer confirm everything they did is still good. If they say it is good we talked about places that will repair the LCM. I want to confirm what they did is not faulty work explainng all these new problems like my blinkers stopped working, instrument dashboard lights (no longer light up or allow diming with control) and the fact that tapping the LCM no longer allows the rear lights to come on could be due to an issue with their worked performed. I'm in worse shaped since the bypass.
If they say their work is good, should I be able to remove the LCM like I did a few years back or will the LCM bypass for the headlights be an issue for me to remove the LCM and do the relay replacments?
Whats your thoughts on faulty work causing the new problems.
The new problems happened within 2 weeks of their work.
Thank you for any info and I apologize for the 2003 Grand Marquis. This This forum was the closet article on the bypass I could fine. I would be happy to speak with anyone offline if it would be more helpful.
Ken
Now that the wires have been cut, both sides of the wires need to be stripped in preparation to be attached to the butt connectors.
An experienced tech always remembers to double check and make sure heat shrink is on the wire prior to crimping or soldering. I decided to crimp and heatshrink all the harness side splices first, and do the connector side splices second.
Next plug the module in and connect the battery for a quick functions test. Everything works properly!
The directions indicate to tuck the module up by the PCM and route the harness' below the steering shaft along the instrument panel frame and back up to where they are spliced. The module and harness' are retained with the zip ties provided in the kit.
Install the LCM and install the covers and boom were done.
All in all not a fun job. For those of you who have spent some time working under a dash it is not too comfortable, not to mention the lack of motion I have when trying to do detailed steps like cutting and stripping and crimping. Luckily this clean rig was free of dust and debris, most rigs this old are dustier that your attic under the dash.
Overall I think this is a very poor repair, and my recommendation to everyone with a vehicle affected by this recall is to request it not to be performed. If your LCM fails we all know how to fix it, when know who to call and most of us can get the sucker in and out ourselves. As far as I can tell this recall has no expiration and you'll need to let your dealer know at every visit your request the repair not be performed. This repair is probably going to cause a lot more issues down the road as poor splices come apart or a harness chafes or a relay internal to the "module" fails.
15S39 Dealer Bulletin
15S39 Service Procedure
fastblackmerc
Everything Marauder, LEDs & HI
If this was may car, this is what I'd do.
Remove the bypass and reconnect all the wires that were cut using solder and heat shrink tubing.
Replace all the relay in the LCM with higher amperage units and replace the headlight relay with a 30 - 40amp unit.
BTW... I fix LCMs, it's not cheap but it's not an abortion like this bypass.
Remove the bypass and reconnect all the wires that were cut using solder and heat shrink tubing.
Replace all the relay in the LCM with higher amperage units and replace the headlight relay with a 30 - 40amp unit.
BTW... I fix LCMs, it's not cheap but it's not an abortion like this bypass.
RF Overlord
73 is the best number.
Unless the dealer tech did a massively craptacular job, I would expect any problems due to the bypass would have shown up immediately. My understanding is that this bypass is just for the headlights, so shouldn't have had any effect on your other issues therefore I suspect your LCM may have simply given up the ghost.
I can't see any reason why you shouldn't be able to remove the LCM as normal to either replace it entirely or replace the relays.
Sounds like you're the first one here to have issues after the recall, so please let us know how you make out.
*EDIT* Make sure all 3 connectors are plugged in firmly and none of the pins have been dislodged.
I can't see any reason why you shouldn't be able to remove the LCM as normal to either replace it entirely or replace the relays.
Sounds like you're the first one here to have issues after the recall, so please let us know how you make out.
*EDIT* Make sure all 3 connectors are plugged in firmly and none of the pins have been dislodged.