Advice on removing AC to remove exhaust manifold

BigCars4Ever

BigCars4Ever

Senior Member
I'm installing a set of modified JBA headers and ran into an issue. Guess you have to remove the mounting bolts for the AC and move it out of the way. Just looking for advice on safely securing it. In Florida AC is precious. Thanks in advance!
 
BigCars4Ever said:
I'm installing a set of modified JBA headers and ran into an issue. Guess you have to remove the mounting bolts for the AC and move it out of the way. Just looking for advice on safely securing it. In Florida AC is precious. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Just remove the belt, back out the bolts, and slide it forward to gain access. No need to secure it.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
That was painful. Does make me wonder what you would have to do to completely remove the compressor. I'm pacing myself so tomorrow I plan to fit the passenger side header. Saturday I'll tackle the drivers side. That should give my body enough time to make more blood.

Musclemerc - I have no idea what headers they are but the carb id is D-216. I cut the ds flange to clear the dip stick tube, dinged in the tube closest to the steering shaft, and extended the EGR tube bung. They have 3" collectors. Everything past the collectors will be 2.5". Got high flow cats, X-pipe, and two chamber mufflers. Plan to hook up to the stock tail pipes and tips for now. Motor is completely stock so I wasn't looking for big gains anyways. Just having a little fun during this covid crap and keeping my welding skills current.
 
20200223_151417.jpg20200523_182542.jpg20200523_201034.jpg
Followed all of the instructions and even used an IR sensor to check the temperature. I have never had luck with high temp paint.
 
All the luck to ya! I’ve never had luck either, not on headers at least. Of course, I always short cut it and do the heat cycles on the car/bike.

The only time I actually did any proper heating was with the wrinkle black on my valve covers years ago. I couldn’t believe the quality and consistency.

Removing it once I got sick of it however.. Hours in the blast cabinet. [emoji17]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
BigCars4Ever said:
That was painful. Does make me wonder what you would have to do to completely remove the compressor. I'm pacing myself so tomorrow I plan to fit the passenger side header. Saturday I'll tackle the drivers side. That should give my body enough time to make more blood.

Musclemerc - I have no idea what headers they are but the carb id is D-216. I cut the ds flange to clear the dip stick tube, dinged in the tube closest to the steering shaft, and extended the EGR tube bung. They have 3" collectors. Everything past the collectors will be 2.5". Got high flow cats, X-pipe, and two chamber mufflers. Plan to hook up to the stock tail pipes and tips for now. Motor is completely stock so I wasn't looking for big gains anyways. Just having a little fun during this covid crap and keeping my welding skills current.
Click to expand...

Your gonna be happy with that setup. The best sounding exhaust was my JBA shorty's, 2.5" MAC Prochamber, and stock muffler back.
 
Is it normal to have to re-route the starter wires? The are right between the starter and the headers. They will melt for sure if I don't make them longer and move them.
 
I don’t recall having to move them? It’s been a number of years since my first set however.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
BigCars4Ever said:
Is it normal to have to re-route the starter wires? The are right between the starter and the headers. They will melt for sure if I don't make them longer and move them.
Click to expand...
I wrapped my starter with a DEI heat shield/blanket when I installed my Kook's headers.
It was reflective nomex? fabric and had velcro strips sewn into it so it would stay in place.
Worked great and kept the starter from getting heat soaked.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Joe Walsh said:
I wrapped my starter with a DEI heat shield/blanket when I installed my Kook's headers.
It was reflective nomex? fabric and had velcro strips sewn into it so it would stay in place.
Worked great and kept the starter from getting heat soaked.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Same. Well after the first starter solenoid melted internally and started an electrical fire under the hood at a red light..

Sucks to hide that gem of a Jegs mini starter though. [emoji17]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
The heat shield is probably a great idea but issue is the wires going to the starter are literally pinched between a header tube and the solenoid body.
 
What if you removed the wire from its bracket on the back of the head and gave it some slack to run between the block and solenoid?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
On both mine and my brothers car we rerouted the starter wires. Took them out of the bracket and off the studs on the valve cover. Ran down the inner fender next to the AC line, then along next to the trans cooler lines over toward starter territory. Was able to shorten the wires about 6" or so.
We both have the powermaster high torque starter. He has headers, I do not.
 
I made the wires longer. Today I fabricated muffler hangers. Now I have to make pie cuts to attach the mufflers to the tailpipes and do all of the finish welding. Way more work than I anticipated.
 
A little more progress. Got rained out on Sunday and I won't use the saws in the garage. Too much mess.20201109_181224.jpg20201109_181504.jpg20201109_181601.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20201109_181355.jpg
    20201109_181355.jpg
    194.2 KB · Views: 33
The band clamps do not have the holding force to keep the pipes from twisting. I think I need to add another hanger to support the weight more evenly. Has anyone used this bracket on the floor to mount hangers? My plan would be to span the two holes with a piece of bar stock to distribute the weight evenly and mount the hangers from the bar stock.
exhaust hanger locations.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top