Alot of confusion with buying spark plugs....

  • Thread starter Thread starter AnthonyV8
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AnthonyV8

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I've been trying to find replacement spark plugs for my car and have had no luck. Every dealer I go to is giving me different part #s and don't have the # i found on this site in stock or even in there system (AGSF32).

One dealer is charging $4.38 a plug while the other is chargine $6.08 a plug but both are different part #s. If there someone on the board that I can buy them from and why am I facing so much damn confusion with these dealers???

Little help please guys :mad2:
 
Anthony, AGSF32 is an old number. Ford re-numbered all their spark plugs a few years ago. I have the new number at home and will post it when I get off work if no one chimes in before then.
 
The Motorcraft web site still lists AGSF32WM as the correct plug. SP433 is the Iridium version.

Here's another interesting bit...there's a "Special Tip" at the bottom of the listing that says: "Anti-seize compound is useful when replacing spark plugs in aluminum cylinder heads." I don't mean to restart THAT war, but I find it interesting that Motorcraft would say that on the web site, when Ford doesn't use anti-seize at the factory.
 
RF Overlord said:
The Motorcraft web site still lists AGSF32WM as the correct plug. SP433 is the Iridium version.

Here's another interesting bit...there's a "Special Tip" at the bottom of the listing that says: "Anti-seize compound is useful when replacing spark plugs in aluminum cylinder heads." I don't mean to restart THAT war, but I find it interesting that Motorcraft would say that on the web site, when Ford doesn't use anti-seize at the factory.
Click to expand...

There is less of a chance of stripping the threads when anti-seize is used. IMO.
 
RF Overlord said:
The Motorcraft web site still lists AGSF32WM as the correct plug. SP433 is the Iridium version.

Here's another interesting bit...there's a "Special Tip" at the bottom of the listing that says: "Anti-seize compound is useful when replacing spark plugs in aluminum cylinder heads." I don't mean to restart THAT war, but I find it interesting that Motorcraft would say that on the web site, when Ford doesn't use anti-seize at the factory.
Click to expand...

These are the correct replacement Spark Plugs.
The part number was superceded a few years ago.
The old plug has more threads on it.
The new plug has a longer shoulder on it to help prevent stripping.
If you are changing them yourself, do it on a COLD engine,
and make sure you have a torque wrench sensitive enough for the plugs.
They only take something like 7IN - 12IN/lbs to torq.
Thats is INCH POUNDS NOT FOOT POUNDS.

You may also want to replace your Coil Wires with the Granatelli COP wire while you are in there.
They are sold through Wes (Innovative Interceptors).
The stock wires are going to be USELESS once you pull them out.
You will see what I mean once you try to pull the wire out.
 
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Thanks guys.....

Quick question though........WHAT IS THE RIGHT #?! And is there anyone online that I can buy them cheaper than the dealership..

Dave, yeah I've been super busy with work and I'm just doing a 60k tune-up.
 
AnthonyV8....

If you are looking for "Stock" MM plugs...How many miles do you have on the originals??:confused: They are good for 80-100K miles in a "Stock" application!!:beer:

If you just want to change I'd look at the NGK Iridiums depending on what you plan to do as "Mods"?? If a blower is in your future...use copper plugs then and don't waste your money on Iridiums!!;)

Good Luck!!

Marauderjack:burnout:
 
RF Overlord said:
The Motorcraft web site still lists AGSF32WM as the correct plug. SP433 is the Iridium version.

Here's another interesting bit...there's a "Special Tip" at the bottom of the listing that says: "Anti-seize compound is useful when replacing spark plugs in aluminum cylinder heads." I don't mean to restart THAT war, but I find it interesting that Motorcraft would say that on the web site, when Ford doesn't use anti-seize at the factory.
Click to expand...

AGSF32WM is the Iridium version as well. The "WM" correlates to the Iridium electrode. The 2003 E-250 uses AGSF-22WM iridium plugs from the factory. I replaced them at 20k miles so I could use anti-sieze and prevent them from welding themselves to the heads like they almost did at 20k. The electrodes looked brand new, so I bought a set for my Vic as well. They are the full threaded plugs with nickel coating (shiny metal surface) and the Iridium coating is found on the center electrode.

Here is the old part # system explained:
http://info.rockauto.com/Motorcraft/sparkPlugs.htm

Notice the WM description. ;)

The new part numbering system doesn't make sense.
 
You guys are scaring me. Should I at least take out and put back in my plugs with anti-seeze before they never come out in the future?? ~40k Miles.
 
I did the plugs on the 2003 5.4 2V V8 when it only had 20k miles. One of them had a cracked ceramic insulator and none of them had anti-sieze. They were all a PITA to remove.
 
I have just bought a set of plugs from the dealer and the pn was SP-433. This number apparently supersedes the old #. This new # is a platinum type (its written right on the plug). I've been using "Nickel" never-seize on any plug I change for years... no problems. regards.
 
Plugs

I recently pulled the plugs from my 12K mile 03 Marauder and replaced them with Autolite 764...the cheap, regular, boring autolites. And, I used antisieze.

Why? I want to examine plug condition every 12K miles; it's one of the best indicators of engine health. The factory doesn't use antisieze on the threads and if you wait too long...you can take the threads out with the plug. Lastly, I've seen more than a few BRAND NEW fords with loose, broken, or improperly gapped plugs. As easy as it is to get at them on this engine, why wouldn't you take the 15 minutes to check them?

Oh, and another nifty trick...I epoxied a magnet into the deep-end of my sparkplug socket. This way you don't drop the plugs into the bore and screw up the gap on these DOHCs.
 
I want to replace my plugs with some that are 2 ranges colder, to go along with my tune. Anyone know the part number. And why are the plug wires from Wes recommended?
 
JonW:

You should check with the supplier of your tune before installing cooler plugs. Some tuners recommend them and some do not. If your tune doesn't specifically require them, you can run into fouling issues.

If by "plug wires" you mean the Granatelli COP connectors, you'd understand why they're recommended if you saw them side-by-side with the factory ones. The factory springs look like they came from a BIC pen. The ones in the GMS set are much heavier duty with a more positive feel when you snap them in place.
 
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