Anybody get a cam sensor code after swapping to the eaton brackets?

J

Jamie R.

New member
I now have the correct vaccum I should so I don't think I have a vacc leak anymore thankfully. My next hurdle is I'm getting a cam sensor code. I had to take out my cobra sensor to use a marauder sensor because y'all's sensor plugs into on the side whereas my cobra sensor plugs in straight out and would hit the alternator if I used it. I got a brand new sensor from ford and now Ive gotten a cam sensor code twice. Curious if anybody else using the custom brackets have had a cam sensor code? The car never had this code before and I had a d1sc procharger on this engine before this eaton swap. I just had idle issues with the PC that I wasn't crazy about and a PC idler went out on me after not even having 3k miles on it so I had a coupe reasons for going away from the PC eventhough the pwr was really good.

Jamie R.
 
Well I pulled the cam sensor tonight. I'm thinking the wrong sensor was in the box. My ford box 1f3z-6b288-ab then above that number in bigger letters is DU-72. The part number on the sensor that was in the box doesn't match the numbers on the box though. The part number on the sensor is 1f3e-6b288-ab which pulls up as a crankshaft sensor or tpms sensor. I'm thinking the wrong sensor was put in the box. I've never had a cam sensor code until sticking this sensor in for the eaton swap.

Jamie R.
 
Ok I got another marauder cam sensor and I've gotten the po340 code again. This is two dif sensors now and I get the same cel. Any ideas why I would have this code?

Jamie R.
 
The connectors and sensors themselves are different IIRC.
You might have to swap the wire orientation.
 
P0340 code indicates that a problem was detected in the camshaft position sensor circuit. Since it says circuit, that means the problem could lie in any part of the circuit - the sensor itself, the wiring, or the PCM. Don't just replace the sensor and think that will definitely fix it.

A code P0340 could mean one or more of the following has happened:
  • a wire or connector in the circuit could be grounded/shorted/broken
  • the PCM may have failed
  • there exists an open circuit
  • the crankshaft position sensor may have failed.
 
I googled the code and apparently the alt might need to be changed. So I'm sticking a alt on it. My stock 01 conn does plug into the marauder sensor and the sensors look exact except for the straight out plug in vs side plug in. I really don't think anything is wrong with the wiring cause this problem never existed before.
I'm leaning to the alt being the issue. The car idles smoothly and has no apparent issues other than that code.
 
Well no change in my po340 code. I put a new alt on and still have the code and typically on third cranking cycle. The car idles very smooth and revs smooth but I still get the code. I didn't remove the harness for this swap, just laid the wires over to the side. I've never had this code before until using the swap brackets and marauder sensor. If nothing changes in a couple days of trying something else then ill have a set of Terry's heavy duty brackets for sale cause ill be going to the term setup with the pulley bridge. A bud of mine used this same setup on his cobra with a marauder sensor and has never had this code so I'm at a loss as to why this code keeps popping up for me.

Jamie R.
 
Jamie R. said:
Well no change in my po340 code. I put a new alt on and still have the code and typically on third cranking cycle. The car idles very smooth and revs smooth but I still get the code. I didn't remove the harness for this swap, just laid the wires over to the side. I've never had this code before until using the swap brackets and marauder sensor. If nothing changes in a couple days of trying something else then ill have a set of Terry's heavy duty brackets for sale cause ill be going to the term setup with the pulley bridge. A bud of mine used this same setup on his cobra with a marauder sensor and has never had this code so I'm at a loss as to why this code keeps popping up for me.

Jamie R.
Click to expand...

Get a wiring diagram sir. It may be as simple as reversing the orientation of the wires.
 
Ill try a couple different things in the next couple nights. On the swap brackets, does the alt pulley end up really close to the cam sensor. Mine is so close that I have to shave a little of the plastic off near where the sensor bolts up. Thanks for the info, I'm up for trying anything cause I'm a loss on this.

Jamie R.
 
Tried a few things still persist with the same po340 code on the third crank. Car idles smooth, cranks fine, revs clean, but the code is consistent on the third crank cycle. Outta ideas.
 
Have you checked the physical lengths of the sensors?
Are they Oem ford sensors?
Have you verified the wiring is the same between mustangs and marauders?
Have you checked continuity from the connector to the PCM bulkhead connector???
 
Out on a limb here...you said the alternator pulley was so close to the sensor you had to shave some plastic from it. I don't know how likely this is, but it's possible that much steel so close to the sensor is messing with the magnetic field and distorting the signal, especially if the CPS is a variable-reluctance type sensor.
 
Correct a cobra. The sensors are the same length. I've tried a brand new ford sensor and a cheapy from the parts store and both sensors looked the same except for the ford number on the ford sensor. Another cobra has had this same bracket setup and marauder sensor in the car for maybe 3 yrs without a code so that's why I got the same brackets. No Ive not pulled the wires out to ohm them or check them cause Ive never had this code before until the brackets/alt being so close to the sensor and I never had the harness out or was rough with the wiring as I just unplugged everything and eased over to the side for removal of parts and installation of parts. I have close up pics of the other cobra owners alt/bracket and how close his pulley is to the sensor and he has a touch more clearance than me but still had to shave some of the plastic off.

My new update is I took the alt/bracket out of the car and fired it up maybe 9 times and each time let it idle for a little and revved it slightly. After all the cranking cycles I had the temp up close to operating temp as the gauge was about halfway. I also have a electric water pump on the car so that's why I could crank it up that many times and get close to operating temp. After all that I had no cel for the code!!!!!!! Typically the code would come up on the third cranking cycle. Sooooo I'm guessing this would indicate the old alt and the reman new parts store alt has a bad frequency?? I don't mind buying a new ford oem alt if that would indeed solve my issue. Any ideas? Thanks for the ideas so far!!

Jamie R.
 
I'm in moultrie. Your about 3 hours north of me if Hiram is near atl. I'm used to not much traffic in south ga small towns, so I avoid atl at all cost lol.

Jamie R.
 
Jamie R. said:
I'm in moultrie. Your about 3 hours north of me if Hiram is near atl. I'm used to not much traffic in south ga small towns, so I avoid atl at all cost lol.

Jamie R.
Click to expand...

We are a good bit NW of the ATL but Moultrie is a hike for sure.
 
If y'all are north west of atl then yeah y'all are a ways off from me. If this car could be figured out by somebody I'm at the point though that I would drop it off somewhere cause I've worked on it and worked on it for a while now and longer than I ever imagined. Its like its so close now and if I wasn't now messing with the code the car would be at the house and not in my shop.

Jamie R.
 
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