Bad things happened last night

[svtmerc]

Coming back home from running a few errands last night, I got about 2 blocks from home and as I'm almost stopped at an intersection I hear a metallic sound which sounded like a skid plate on a truck dropping and hitting the ground (thats as best as i can describe it) the noise was a split second only... then as i went forward it made another more subtle noise and a noticable lack of power. I get the 2 blocks to my driveway and as I go to back it in it died and didn't want to crank back over. I did notice oil pressure looked like it was near zero. Coolant gauge read normal... never seemed to move up in the slightest. I just tried to start it and she fired right up showing a lityle over 50 psi oil pressure. A couple slight clicks in the engine for a second then sounded quiet.. but its been like that since I've been driving it.

I am guessing this was the infamous timing guides and a piece of plastic plugged the oil pickup.... any opinions?

Also any idea what part may have caused that initial metal noise?

Thanks guys

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[BAD MERC]

First thing I would take off the oil filter and cut it open. I have a cutter and will be in your neck o the woods Saturday morning. We gotta see what's in there and look at the oil.

 

[svtmerc]

I have an appointment in the early am Saturday, but will be home by 11 am

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[svtmerc]

I'll PM you my phone number

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[svtmerc]

Slight update... code readers show no codes and no pending codes nor any freeze frame data saved. Listening with a stethoscope tells me no noise under the timing cover but ticking under the valve covers, more on the drivers than the passengers. Idler pulleys and a/c pulleys are quiet, but the tensioner pulley doesn't sound good, not an audible noise but definitely noticeable with the stethoscope. Oil still shows 50 psi cold where as previously was 75 psi cold.

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[RubberCtyRauder]

Possible Cyl. 7 or 8 valve issue..there is a poor cooling passage and Cyl. 7,8 can run hotter and over time can get carbon build up, bend a valve..can do compression test on those and see

 

[Turbov6Bryan]

Belt tensioner fooled me once. Sound was loud af, pulled belt and noise went away

 

[svtmerc]

Yeah, but the tensioner wouldn't affect the oil pressure dropping, I think that the tensioner is just a coincidence, also as I said I only hear it with a mechanics stethoscope.

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[svtmerc]

Hopefully I can figure something tomorrow. I'll keep the group posted. Worst case scenario, I know where there are 3 Aviator engines.

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[svtmerc]

Well... Here are the results of taking the oil filter off.... I did put a new fl-820s on and started it up... Heard a knock for about 2-3 seconds and then quiet running.. and with a clean filter .. pressure went up to about 62 psi.... So I need ideas... My best guess right now is a crank bearing is gone and that the knock was a rod that had excessive clearance and then when oil got to it, it created enough of a barrier to quiet it down... But that excess clearance is causing the oil pressure drop. ... From others experience is this amount of material in the filter consistent with that hypothesis? The last 2 pics are of a blue Scott shop towel I used to strain the material out after thinning the oil with some gas.

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[justbob]

I’ve definitely seen way worse. If you spun a crank bearing you would definitely know. They don’t come back around.


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[svtmerc]

Tomorrow the cam covers and front cover will come off ... We'll see if it's got anything to do with the timing guides.


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[a_d_a_m]

Possible Cyl. 7 or 8 valve issue..there is a poor cooling passage and Cyl. 7,8 can run hotter and over time can get carbon build up

Had this happen, sound did not match what O/P described. What happened in my case was not carbon build up but the valve seats dropped. YMMV of course; hope it's not too terribly expensive

 

[svtmerc]

So far I dont see anything that gives a clue.... cams in drivers side appear normal to me, and what I can see of the timing chain and guide seem fine. Oh and on a lighter note... The trunk organizer is doing a fine job organizing my parts...[emoji3]

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[svtmerc]

heres the pass side and front... I don't see anything but a couple small marks on a few pass side cam lobes.

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[Prospect62]

I think you need to pull that driver's side head and check the valves on 7 & 8.

 

[svtmerc]

I think you need to pull that driver's side head and check the valves on 7 & 8.

well I'm already pretty sure that the guides on 8 and possibly 4 are bad or at least on the way as there is noise under the rear of the cam covers, more on the drivers than the pass. but is present on both sides. Other than that, is there a reason to pull the head before the oil pump and oil pan?

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[daniel.drives]

That's strange. I was really expecting to see a lot of material missing from one or both timing chain guides, that would make the most sense to me with the changes in sound vs oil pressure and the amount of material in the filter. The amount of varnishing tells me someone was a little slow on oil changes during it's life, yours looks like mine did when I had it open at 188k, I've seen MUCH cleaner guts at 155k in a friends 4V. The wear on the cam lobes doesn't seem (to me at least) to be a red flag.

I'd be interested to know what's hanging out in the bottom of the oil pan/pickup tube. Assuming the oil pump goes through the filter before the rest of the engine, I'm curious if all the metal produced was small enough to get around the inlet screen and land in your filter, or if there's some larger chunks in the pickup. Please do keep posting the awesome pictures!

 

[mustangeddie]

Judging by what appears to be bearing material in the oil filter pictures I'm going to say it has a spun rod bearing & the crank is wrecked on that journal.

 

[svtmerc]

ok...so Cams locked, i removed the timing components.. the guides as you can see are the 2 bolt brackets. They appear original, but was under the impression that all ford ones were 3 bolt but the bosses for the 3rd bolt dont look like they've ever had anything bolted to them.... the guide material on the drivers side is wearing thin but otherwise still no signs of a problem. Oil pump is next...

My question is does the oil pan have to come off to remove the pump? It seems like I could possibly remove it but I don't think I could put both of the pickup tube bolts back in without removing the pan.

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