CRUZTAKER
Found what I'm looking for...
***PLEASE MAKE STICKY***
With some phone assistance from Rich, Magindat, we learned some things today in regards to utilizing the MM factory rear sub/amp harness.
I installed my Infinity Bass Link amp using all of the wires from my factory harness, and NOT running ANY additional wiring. Basically plug and play.
Now I know this won't be right for everyone, seeing as how I cut my factory harness, and utilized the smaller factory wiring. Number one, I will never sell my MM. I do not care if I permanently modify oem harness'. Number two, I am not using high current equipment nor any high end equipment. I just wanted less package rattle. And it worked. I like the sound of my car better than any music anyway.
The harness:
The harness that connects to the factory amp consists of one removable piece that actually plugs into the amp (the pigtail), and the other end plugs into the oem harness located behind the carpeting on the back seat wall.
The wires within the harness, and the pigtail change colors in the transition to the amp. Some wires within the pigtail are doubled up, (two wires of the same color on the same connector.
Here are the wire identifications:
HARNESS----------------------------------------------PIGTAIL
black/green-----------------GROUND-------------------red - red
red/yellow----------------Constant 12vdc--------------yellow-yellow
blk/org-------------------low level signal*--------------green
red/blk-------------------low level signal*--------------black
green/blk-----------------switched 5vdc---------------white
*The low level audio signal is a Balanced Line Level signal and carries an alternating current (AC Volts). If you use a meter set to A/C volts, the radio is on, and the radio's volume is up, you will see a voltage fluctuation, ie. a signal.
The switched power, oddly enough is 5v when the radio and ignition is off.
It bumps to around 7.85 vdc when the radio is on.
The Infinity Bass Link requires a switched power lead rated between 5 and 12 vdc. It was found that our factory switched lead does indeed trigger the Bass Link appropriately.
The Connections:
I removed the pigtail and took it to the bench, and made my connections to the Bass Link there.
I cut the the oem connector for the oem sub/amp about 4" from the connector, and saved the connector in the event someone wants my old oem unit and connector end to re-splice.
I put both RED wires in a blue ring terminal, and landed them on the Bass Link's GROUND terminal.
I put both YELLOW wires in a blue ring terminal, and landed them on the Bass Link's 12V terminal.
I put the WHITE wire in a red ring terminal, and landed it on the REMOTE terminal.
I bought a 3" RCA 'Y' cable, female to male-male.
I bought another RCA male cable on one end, and open wired on the other end.
I connected the GREEN low level signal wire to the RCA's center conductor. I connected the BLACK wire to the RCA's shield.
There is no way to check polarity in this final connection.
I soldered and heat shrunk these connections.
You must test audio and listen to hear if the bass sounds (as Rich says
muddy. This connection sounded ok to my ears.
The only problem I have now is positioning, and how the hell to secure this thing. I am sooo leary of screwing through the floor board. I also need to stash the harness better, and clean up/cover the awefull hole in the carpeting left behind from Mercury which was blocked by the old amp.
AND....How the hell did you guys remove the black mounting assembly that once held the front of the oem amp????
