Cams????

S

scareme

Member
Just wondering if anyine has heard anything about, or has upgraded the cams. A friend of mine is convinced that is one of the best ways to get NA power but I don't recall any posts????
 
It's expensive...for good ones. You'd need 4, and with the other things that would need to be done at the same time (including rather "major surgery") it would run around $5K to do it right.
 
TAF, how does that compare to a S/C? (I'm still holding out hopes for a site page that could list all known mods- their avg cost, $/HP etc).
 
MapleLeafMerc said:
TAF, how does that compare to a S/C? (I'm still holding out hopes for a site page that could list all known mods- their avg cost, $/HP etc).
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I was told (don't hold me to it...it was just what I was told) that with the above mention expenditure on beefing up the internals...that 'high-3s" could be expected in RWHP. So I'm assuming that meant anywhere from 360-380. I don't know if that is possible, though....like I said (don't hold me to it...it was just what I was told)

The "good" would be you'd have a VERY strong internal, N/A engine which should last longer than the stock internals.

The "bad" could be you could exceed those numbers for a little extra "ching" with an S/C.
 
Here's my understanding of cams. You can get some more power, but there's ALWAYS a trade-off. More power means more lift. More lift means less low-end torque. Bigger cams give you anything from a little more rough idle, to a loping idle, to a car that you're amazed to watch running at idle speed because it sounds like it should have stalled already.

You can get some better peak numbers, but you end up with a very narrow power band. For those extra few numbers, many people end up with cars they hate to drive because they no longer are pleasent to drive daily.
 
Sumit has a listing for cams for the SOHC motors but I haven't seen anything for the DOHC's yet.
 
stephen

I see you have a LS 5 speed; never have seen one. How dose the console look?Please show. How hard to put a v8 in?
 
chrish said:
I see you have a LS 5 speed; never have seen one. How dose the console look?Please show. How hard to put a v8 in?
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Here are pics of the console. I just pulled them from a website, so it's not my car, but just like it. It looks like the owner of the car pictured parks his car in 4th for some reason :nono: Neutral people! That's what the "Parking brake" is there for :shake:

It has a European shift pattern of:

R-1-3-5
--2-4--

It would be very difficult to swap in a V8. The trans would have to be swapped out also because the V8 has a Jaguar bolt pattern (the 3.9 is just a slightly de-bored 4.0 Jag motor from it's sister car the S-Type), and the trans in there is only rated to 250hp. I'm very happy with it. It is my wife's car. The V6 with a manual is almost exactly as fast as the V8.
 

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Stephen Soulsby said:
Here's my understanding of cams. You can get some more power, but there's ALWAYS a trade-off. More power means more lift. More lift means less low-end torque. Bigger cams give you anything from a little more rough idle, to a loping idle, to a car that you're amazed to watch running at idle speed because it sounds like it should have stalled already.

You can get some better peak numbers, but you end up with a very narrow power band. For those extra few numbers, many people end up with cars they hate to drive because they no longer are pleasent to drive daily.
Click to expand...
I had to get custom Bullets for mine when I had the stroker done. Much more aggressive and $325/ea. Loping idle, which in some traffic situations requires mild torque braking at stops. Most people would not like this aspect of it in a daily driver and find it annoying. Add a beefed up tranny and a three disc converter like the Stallion and you've basically got a car that idles like race car......rough. I'd stick with the stock cams unless you are going to upgrade internals looking for more than 100 additional HP. I can't see the benefit otherwise. :rasta:
 
Stephen Soulsby said:
Here are pics of the console. I just pulled them from a website, so it's not my car, but just like it. It looks like the owner of the car pictured parks his car in 4th for some reason :nono: Neutral people! That's what the "Parking brake" is there for :shake:

It has a European shift pattern of:

R-1-3-5
--2-4--

It would be very difficult to swap in a V8. The trans would have to be swapped out also because the V8 has a Jaguar bolt pattern (the 3.9 is just a slightly de-bored 4.0 Jag motor from it's sister car the S-Type), and the trans in there is only rated to 250hp. I'm very happy with it. It is my wife's car. The V6 with a manual is almost exactly as fast as the V8.
Click to expand...

Stephen, it's actually potentially not safe to leave it in neutral if you park on a slope or incline. What happens, is that if you leave your car sitting, the emergency brakes can eventually come loose and cause the car to start rolling.
 
junehhan said:
Stephen, it's actually potentially not safe to leave it in neutral if you park on a slope or incline. What happens, is that if you leave your car sitting, the emergency brakes can eventually come loose and cause the car to start rolling.
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I agree. I have driven standard shift cars and trucks for years and have always left them in gear when parked in addition to the emergency brake.
 
Jim - HP?

Jim:

I am blown away by all your mods! What is the HP of your N/A MM? What HP Nitrous are you running? Did you have to retard your timing? Still hope DR comes out with a wet Nitrous system soon.

Glenn
 
junehhan said:
Stephen, it's actually potentially not safe to leave it in neutral if you park on a slope or incline. What happens, is that if you leave your car sitting, the emergency brakes can eventually come loose and cause the car to start rolling.
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Only on a steep incline will I put it in gear, bot only after engaging the parking brake. Parking a manual in gear without using the parking brake will cause more wear in your motor mounts and drivetrain. Parking the car in gear frequently will also wear out the return slring in the shifter and give you a feeling of resistance moving the shifter to the right, but no resistance on the left (assuming you're parking in 1st). My father and I are constantly back and fourth on this, but I have made my point to him now. His 2002 Ranger only has 10,000 miles on it, but the shifter now has little feel for center and because of the lack of resistance, it now crunches going into 3rd if you're not paying attention. His 1998 Escort had the same problem, as did his 1991 F-150. This is my third car with a manual that I have owned and the two that I bought brand new have never had a problem. The third wasn't very bad, but I did notice it.

There is absolutely no safety concern parking a manual with the parking brake. That's what it was designed to do. Park. But hey, don't take my word for it though, check your owners manual. I just did.
 
Maybe it varies from car to car, but when I had my 01 SVT Cobra, the manual was pretty specific about not relying on the parking break alone when parked on an incline.

Oh yeah, I definately agree that you engage the parking break first, before setting it in gear :) When my Marauder get's parked on an incline, I also always engage the parking break before putting the shifter in park out of habit.
 
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