Car shut off while driving. Cranks but won't start.

FX1

FX1

CallahanAutoparts
Fuel pump sounds like it's making noise. Battery's good. Checked fuel shut off switch. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance. All dash lights came on then car shut off right away while driving. My dad was driving this is what he told me.


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I'm guessing fuel pump. If it were a fuse would it shut off the car while driving? Come on where's all the super Marauder problem solvers at tonight? I can't find anything in the useless search bar!!!!
 
Either fuel pump or just bad connection at the battery. I had this happen to me once while at WOT. The car shut off lights came back on and was able to start it while still coasting in neutral, but once I parked it wouldn't start, dash lights still came up just couldn't start the motor until i cleaned the dirty connections.
 
I found a few things out. The AL DL doesn't work should always be able to hook a scan tool up check engine light doesn't come on when turn the key on two out of three ignition switch fuses don't even have any power going to them. And car will not crank at all no security light
 
One key was blocked from the security system from cranking too much. could it be possible that's happened to the second key and if so is there any way to reset them
 
Try looking at the pcm diode in the fuse box under the hood. Remove it, and put it back in. Richardp had a similar problem and i think the contacts were dirty/ corroded. His car would crank, but needed a hot shot to start it. His car never died while in motion though.
 
whitey said:
Try looking at the pcm diode in the fuse box under the hood. Remove it, and put it back in. Richardp had a similar problem and i think the contacts were dirty/ corroded. His car would crank, but needed a hot shot to start it. His car never died while in motion though.
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My car used to shut off on me mid flight, but that was due to a bad CoilOnPlug.
 
The PATS keys don't shut off due to excessive cranking. If it stops cranking, then there is a power issue in the starting circuit. But with the other power issues, either the battery is not holding enough voltage or something is impeding the power flow (dirty battery connections, corroded contacts in power junction box, etc). Have to start at the begining and make sure battery is good and connections clean and tight and then go on from there.
 
I thought it was my key. One key stopped working. Then the other key worked. Now it's not cranking. Something's going on. Won't be able to mess with it agsin till this afternoon. Ahhhh. I know it's going to be something stupid. I hope. Thanks for the help.
 
The whole wiring harness runs around the front of your car behind the bumper, they are known to chaff on the fender braces that go from the core support down to the lower front fenders. Put your car up on jack stands or ramps in the front, and look through the access flaps for the fog lights.You'll see what I'm talking about, the harness rubs up against the steel rod and causes all sorts of problems.

I had this harness take out my fuel pump wire.
 
Battery is 3-4 years old. Tow truck guy said it was good. That's when I tried another key and it cranked. Battery's prob dead now. Won't crank. Cars at a friends garage. He's been working on Cadillacs at a stealer ship for 10 years. Has tons of experience with electrical problems I'm sure. He says he's Gonna check the schematics at work for where some fuses get their power and still need to see where the aldl or dlc get its power from. That should have power to it no matter what position the key is in.
 
My mechanics thinking it might be my ignition switch. Was able to get it cranking again messing with it. Any thoughts?
 
FX1 said:
My mechanics thinking it might be my ignition switch. Was able to get it cranking again messing with it. Any thoughts?
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I had a similar situation, I removed the ignition switch and checked it with a volt meter and it was bad. I checked it in all positions on all the proper pins and everything was fine except in the start position. Once it tested bad I swapped in a known good switch and everything is fine. Might be worth a shot to at least test the ignition switch.
 
New ignition not the problem. Is the check engine light suppose to flicker fast along with security light? That's what's happening. It cranks won't start. Fuel pump is powering with the check engine light. Battery cables are clean. No other lights flicker. Scan tool turns off when key is turned on.
 
If the check engine is flickering while you are cranking it, that's usually a strong indicator of not enough voltage reaching the PCM. Under 7-10 volts (can't remember) the PCM won't work. You may have corrosion inside the battery cables or at one of the ends where it connects to the engine bay fuse panel. Flickering when cranking is weak battery or bad connections. Bad starter will crank slower then needed so engine dosen't turn over fast enough for PCM to recognize it trying to start. Obvious if you watch the belt/pulleys when cranking it.

Grounds for the dash harness are in the left and right kick panels. Sometimes moisture can get in there or they corrode. May be worth it to pop the kick panels and clean the grounds screwed into the front door jamb area.
 
I need help asap

While driving my car after I left the muffler shop because I need a rear cats so I got it install soon I drove off my car shut off while driving now my crank up then shut off soon I trun the key I don't think it's the pcm then sometimes I start up then shut off I don't know what's going on with my car I tried starting up the car few times the check engine flash but the car has no codes in the computer please help me what do I need:mad:
 
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