Dragcity Marauder - Build it plan

Diamond Pistons - (Top ring is set 0.325" down) - 0.010 over - Comes with Rings and pins - What compression ratio to choose?
Oliver I Beam Rods
Manley Forged Crank

If I go higher than the OEM 10.1:1, I will be able to increase HP. Stay at 10 lb of Trilogy boost. The block is getting minimally decked. Shoot for 10.5:1 Compression??????
 
^^^ In my experience, your going the wrong way if your plan is to go higher than the stock NA compression ratio on a supercharged engine.

You should be going the opposite way with the compression ratio with plans to make more boost.

(Pretty sure others on this site are not gonna like this comment): I think you should sell the Trilogy SC, intercooler, SC tensioner bracket, COT, and heat exchanger for a ridiculous amount of cash, then place that money back into your build and end up with a better setup. Replace the parts I listed above with (Jerrys HD/SC brackets, SS COT), Froozenboost type 100 heat exchanger, LFP Performance TIG welded intercooler, and a kit from James Hell to move you over to a GT500 supercharger (TVS, Whipple, Eaton)

I took this route and never looked back as my current TVS is far superior to my old Trilogy. If you wanted to you could sell it as a complete kit. Ditch the Trilogy lower pulley for an Innovators West with the SC pulley hub built in for whatever lower ring you wish.

I built a full Trilogy kit, all I had to start with was just a SC. My kit lives on under the hood of Mebot's MM
 
Agree on ditching the old. It’s great for what it was intended to be but a complete bottle neck to take it any farther.

I haven’t met one person who regretted upgrading.


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burt ragio said:
Bill Is the extra belt tensioner at the alternator really needed or is it extreme ?
Click to expand...

It's not an extra tensioner its an extra pulley.

We both have Jerrys HD swap brackets, they add an additional pulley that's mounted on a bridge much like the factory did with the Terminators.

It is necessary if you plan on making high boost with no belt slip.

I currently make 20psi and I have -0- belt slip @ WOT

PSn6VTAl.jpg
 
All depends. What's a "good aftermarket tensioner"?

What kind of upper? Grooved or not?

What SC? An Eaton? Definitely not needed! Whipple? After you cross 14psi TVS? Same as a Whipple, after you cross 14psi

Pretty sure someone will chime in and say "I make 17psi on an Eaton with no belt slip and no extra pulleys". My answer is your Eaton won't build boost as fast as a TVS or Whipple so I'm not surprised you didn't need the extra pulley.
 
Well, I know I had belt slip at 10 lb of boost, replaced the tensioner and still slipped. I would like to add that hardware to 'Dragcity Marauder'.
 
I also agree with replacing the Trilogy with a GT500 supercharger. Drivers side inlet and a far superior blower.
 
Just when I think I have a plan. You guys are KILLING me.......

That's it, I'm just putting a 1976 Mustang 4 cylinder in it. Easy swap
 
Dragcity said:
Diamond Pistons - (Top ring is set 0.325" down) - 0.010 over - Comes with Rings and pins - What compression ratio to choose?
Oliver I Beam Rods
Manley Forged Crank

If I go higher than the OEM 10.1:1, I will be able to increase HP. Stay at 10 lb of Trilogy boost. The block is getting minimally decked. Shoot for 10.5:1 Compression??????
Click to expand...

My TS was a 12.5:1, I had 13.5 lb of boost, I ditched most of the stock trilogy parts, added a killer chiller blah blah blah, and it didn’t run on pump gas, but that was never the plan. I did have a pump gas tune that throttled it to 526, Jerry will tell you how it ran, it may have seen a “little” street action at Woodward a time or two, Woodward Mexico btw.

The weakest link in my case was the circle D triple disc converter and built transmission, but that happened in another town in Mexico, but I still smoked the Z0something Camaro


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Well, I have most of my parts. Manley forged crank. Oliver rods. Diamond pistons. Clevite bearings. New pickup tube, Hurricane oil pump, Composite windage tray, rear head cooling in the back of the heads. MMR rear main seal and plate. ARP 2000 Main studs, ARP side bolts for the Teksid block. MLS head gaskets. Heads are in the shop getting a work over and chamber #1 getting repaired. Depending on the estimate, I may just order built heads form Modular Head Shop. ????? MLS head gaskets.

Looking for oil pan options. Is just a stocker the best way to go? Everything got damaged, dented, torn apart.

Transmission still needs to get done, probably a 3,200 stall converter. Best bet on that?

Next up, deciding on the best timing chains getup.

Thinking of trying to port and polish the intake system and supercharger myself. I am not comfortable sending everything out to MO. If anyone has pictures of the finished porting, that would be great.

Internals go to the machine shop/builder next week.

I am hoping to be on the road by Summer 2023. Life is busy, time and space are limited.

Oh, I removed the Bypass valve from the supercharger for shipping. What do I have to do to get that reset to the proper position? It has a sticker that says factory setting........
 
I’d get a deep Moroso pan or equivalent. High volume oil pumps need the extra capacity.

Most all of us just order the Ford Racing timing chain kit.

You might want to upgrade to head studs for future goals of a larger blower.

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Yes, I have the ARP 2000 Head studs.

Does Moroso Make a Marauder specific pan? Are we the same as Mustang Applications? good point on the extra capacity.
 
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