EATC Blend Door Actuator

What good is a long warranty when the $20 part fails and it takes you another 3 hours to R&R? I'd rather have the replacement part last a long time, than get free ones under warranty 3-4 times.
 
RF Overlord said:
What good is a long warranty when the $20 part fails and it takes you another 3 hours to R&R? I'd rather have the replacement part last a long time, than get free ones under warranty 3-4 times.
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Good point. Thank you for that!

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fastblackmerc said:
Just use a genuine Motorcraft part.
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That I can handle. I'm just more concerned about the disassembly and reassembly now. Everybody makes it seem like it's a pain in the ass then this other guy a little bit ago and said that it's not too bad and he did it in an hour and a half. I'm not sure what to believe anymore. LOL

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01MercGMLS said:
That I can handle. I'm just more concerned about the disassembly and reassembly now. Everybody makes it seem like it's a pain in the ass then this other guy a little bit ago and said that it's not too bad and he did it in an hour and a half. I'm not sure what to believe anymore. LOL

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Even doing it correct way - pulling the dash out of the way - it's only a 2-3 hour job.
 
BDA fix via EATC self test

Kudos to the expertise available on this forum, again. Great people here.

My BDA stopped functioning 2 days ago, just like that, no warning. I got on here for awhile yesterday and looked up everything I could find on the BDA. Did the self test and confirmed that the BDA was the problem. (Code 025)

Somewhere in all of the "stickies" I found a statement that said:

"Doing the EATC Self Test 3 - 5 times in a row can sometimes fix a BDA problem."

Did this and hallelujah, problem fixed. What a great source of info we have here!

Question: Does fixing the BDA in this way imply anything about the BDA? Is this a problem that will start to happen again and again? Did I just fix the symptom and not the root problem? Maybe I should start looking for the right P/N BDA and prepare for a more permanent fix?

Thanks again,

Keith in Houston
'04 DTR
 
Keith said:
Kudos to the expertise available on this forum, again. Great people here.

My BDA stopped functioning 2 days ago, just like that, no warning. I got on here for awhile yesterday and looked up everything I could find on the BDA. Did the self test and confirmed that the BDA was the problem. (Code 025)

Somewhere in all of the "stickies" I found a statement that said:

"Doing the EATC Self Test 3 - 5 times in a row can sometimes fix a BDA problem."

Did this and hallelujah, problem fixed. What a great source of info we have here!

Question: Does fixing the BDA in this way imply anything about the BDA? Is this a problem that will start to happen again and again? Did I just fix the symptom and not the root problem? Maybe I should start looking for the right P/N BDA and prepare for a more permanent fix?

Thanks again,

Keith in Houston
'04 DTR
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Yes it will happen again. Who knows when.
 
Thanks for info

Yeah, you're probably just 'kicking the can down the road' so to speak.
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Thanks to Adam, FastBlack, and Zack, that's what I needed. I'll take care of it permanently.

My gut feel was right on this one - it sure seemed way too easy.


Keith in Houston
'04 DTR
MartyO Tune 'in the mail'
 
01MercGMLS said:
That I can handle. I'm just more concerned about the disassembly and reassembly now. Everybody makes it seem like it's a pain in the ass then this other guy a little bit ago and said that it's not too bad and he did it in an hour and a half. I'm not sure what to believe anymore. LOL

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^^^This^^^. Exactly. From reading you can see that it’s obviously a pain in the ass, unless you’ve done it several times, and after reading for two hours I have three usable tips that I can use: 1) disconnect the negative battery terminal for the airbag, 2) remove the radio, 3) take out the glove box. Not sure where to even find the right side bolts to remove and the left side bolts to loosen.

There’s no way I’m going to be prying out my dash bezel or pulling stuff out from under the dash or even trying to remove the airbag without having clear instructions and tips to not break something, so I’ll check YouTube as mentioned.

The extent of my “dash” work has been to pull out the instrument cluster to add gauges and move the cigarette lighter over, and this looks a bit more involved!




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Svashtar said:
^^^This^^^. Exactly. From reading you can see that it’s obviously a pain in the ass, unless you’ve done it several times, and after reading for two hours I have three usable tips that I can use: 1) disconnect the negative battery terminal for the airbag, 2) remove the radio, 3) take out the glove box. Not sure where to even find the right side bolts to remove and the left side bolts to loosen.

There’s no way I’m going to be prying out my dash bezel or pulling stuff out from under the dash or even trying to remove the airbag without having clear instructions and tips to not break something, so I’ll check YouTube as mentioned.

The extent of my “dash” work has been to pull out the instrument cluster to add gauges and move the cigarette lighter over, and this looks a bit more involved!




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And ^^^this^^^ is why mine still isn't done.

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01MercGMLS said:
And ^^^this^^^ is why mine still isn't done.

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Well, obviously it’s doable because a bunch of guys have figured it out and done it. But, I have unique skills like I said, and the first time I took off the cover for the window / door lock controls I snapped the back tab off, and had to come up with a repair. This is why after 18 months I still haven’t sent my dead light panel switches to Jim.

I figure if I can stumble through changing out the airbags and solenoids, and pulling down the overhead and fixing the compass, and installing the blower motor speed control module behind DR’s rear engine cooling mod, and doing the OF housing gasket yesterday, and other stuff I never thought I could do, I can do this too, but am definitely going slow. There aren’t exactly a lot of MM replacement parts out there any more.
 
Svashtar said:
Well, obviously it’s doable because a bunch of guys have figured it out and done it. But, I have unique skills like I said, and the first time I took off the cover for the window / door lock controls I snapped the back tab off, and had to come up with a repair. This is why after 18 months I still haven’t sent my dead light panel switches to Jim.

I figure if I can stumble through changing out the airbags and solenoids, and pulling down the overhead and fixing the compass, and installing the blower motor speed control module behind DR’s rear engine cooling mod, and doing the OF housing gasket yesterday, and other stuff I never thought I could do, I can do this too, but am definitely going slow. There aren’t exactly a lot of MM replacement parts out there any more.
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The lack of parts is one of the reasons I haven't pulled the trigger on a Marauder yet. I've wanted one for many years and I still love the car but I just can't do it. I'm stuck with my Grand Marquis. At least those have a huge group of salvage vehicles to pick through when you need a part.

With that in mind... My dash will be a little easier I would imagine since I have a column shifter. You guys with console shifters might have more trouble.

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01MercGMLS said:
The lack of parts is one of the reasons I haven't pulled the trigger on a Marauder yet. I've wanted one for many years and I still love the car but I just can't do it. I'm stuck with my Grand Marquis. At least those have a huge group of salvage vehicles to pick through when you need a part.

With that in mind... My dash will be a little easier I would imagine since I have a column shifter. You guys with console shifters might have more trouble.

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I thought about that too, as I trundled around town in my MGM. Then I said WTF...I'm going for it.

The unique parts aren't that many:

---cross over tube --you can get some one to fab you one, install your own fill adpater if yours does not leak but is stuck, or pay $300 bucks
---PCM ---that's the biggie = $400 bucks and you have to wait because they have no cores available
---ABS module ---unique because of the staggered tire sizes, costs $100 to get rebuild done
---overhead compass = who cares
---speedo cluster --they are out there used. $150 or so..
---air ride parts ---same as a zillion town cars or MGMs
--engine parts --mostly the same as Lincoln aviator --hopefully you can reuse your front cover.
--fog lights same part as on some Mazdas
---front/rear bumper covers --repros are out there

And --- for some MGM parts, the popular ones disappear in the JY or that JY part as the same issue yours does...a false sense of security
 
Agent2006 said:
I thought about that too, as I trundled around town in my MGM. Then I said WTF...I'm going for it.

The unique parts aren't that many:

---cross over tube --you can get some one to fab you one, install your own fill adpater if yours does not leak but is stuck, or pay $300 bucks
---PCM ---that's the biggie = $400 bucks and you have to wait because they have no cores available
---ABS module ---unique because of the staggered tire sizes, costs $100 to get rebuild done
---overhead compass = who cares
---speedo cluster --they are out there used. $150 or so..
---air ride parts ---same as a zillion town cars or MGMs
--engine parts --mostly the same as Lincoln aviator --hopefully you can reuse your front cover.
--fog lights same part as on some Mazdas
---front/rear bumper covers --repros are out there

And --- for some MGM parts, the popular ones disappear in the JY or that JY part as the same issue yours does...a false sense of security
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I've really never lost complete interest just haven't really been looking. I guess you're right and as for the air ride, you can also delete that if you're so inclined. So I guess it's not as bad as I thought.

Now... to find a low mileage silver... hmm.

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