LCM?

Regarding this recall letter for 15S39, I was planning on getting this taken care of soon by the dealer and was going to request to Ford to order a new LCM instead of the fix of splicing into existing wires which I'm not a big fan of this. Do you think this will be an option?
 
No, it won't. New LCM is no different than old one. Ford fix is to get out of making a new LCM. If you can be without your car for 2-3 days. Pull it and send to member fastblackmerc
 
I replaced all four relays in mine with the exact same ones back in like ‘09 and was told “it’ll fail again”.

LOL Still works perfect and already outlasted the originals by one and a half times.

Me thinks it was a bad run or bad solder..


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justbob said:
I replaced all four relays in mine with the exact same ones back in like ‘09 and was told “it’ll fail again”.

LOL Still works perfect and already outlasted the originals by one and a half times.

Me thinks it was a bad run or bad solder..


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Of the hundreds of LCMs I've reworked I've never seen bad solder joints. In fact, the hardest thing is getting the existing solder out of the circuit board.

I have seen moderate to severe heat marks on the circuit board around the relay for the headlights that I believe is related to the excessive heat build up because the relay is under sized (10A) for the current drawn by the headlights. I've also disassembled the OEM headlight relay, finding severely pitted and burned contacts.

The longer you use the headlights the more damage is done to the undersized relays and your LCM will fail gain.
 
TED73 said:
Regarding this recall letter for 15S39, I was planning on getting this taken care of soon by the dealer and was going to request to Ford to order a new LCM instead of the fix of splicing into existing wires which I'm not a big fan of this. Do you think this will be an option?
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I've asked the same thing of my local Ford dealer and according to the parts department there are no LCMs available.

I can repair your LCM for you. Comes with a life-of-the-vehicle warranty.
 
fastblackmerc said:
Of the hundreds of LCMs I've reworked I've never seen bad solder joints. In fact, the hardest thing is getting the existing solder out of the circuit board.

I have seen moderate to severe heat marks on the circuit board around the relay for the headlights that I believe is related to the excessive heat build up because the relay is under sized (10A) for the current drawn by the headlights. I've also disassembled the OEM headlight relay, finding severely pitted and burned contacts.

The longer you use the headlights the more damage is done to the undersized relays and your LCM will fail gain.
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You said this a decade ago Jim. [emoji16]


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The LCM is just above and in front the diagnostic OBDII connector (just to the right of the steering column). On the front of the LCM are two grey connectors, depress the release latches and pull the connectors out of the LCM. Remove the two 7mm screws that hold the LCM to the bracket. Release the latch securing the LCM to the bracket. Push the LCM towards the firewall as you rotate the front of the LCM towards the roof.Once the LCM clears the bracket, pull it down and you can release the last electrical connector.

To reinstall, do the same steps in reverse.
 
Hey Fastblackmerc,

I PM'ed you a couple of times. It's a bit of a strange request, but it's sincere!

Just checking!

Thanks,

Allen

fastblackmerc said:
The LCM is just above and in front the diagnostic OBDII connector (just to the right of the steering column). On the front of the LCM are two grey connectors, depress the release latches and pull the connectors out of the LCM. Remove the two 7mm screws that hold the LCM to the bracket. Release the latch securing the LCM to the bracket. Push the LCM towards the firewall as you rotate the front of the LCM towards the roof.Once the LCM clears the bracket, pull it down and you can release the last electrical connector.

To reinstall, do the same steps in reverse.
Click to expand...
 
I’ve been an idiot for not getting this done during all the summer weather we’ve had while I’ve been also stuck working at home. My question is, what lights will and won’t work without the LCM? Headlights will be out obviously, but what about brake lights? IOW is the car drivable at all? No worries if not, just need to plan for it.

I’m going to follow Jim’s instructions and get it out and send to him this weekend. I just hope this will also fix my dead underbody lights, which haven’t worked in over a year. Thanks.


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Svashtar said:
I’ve been an idiot for not getting this done during all the summer weather we’ve had while I’ve been also stuck working at home. My question is, what lights will and won’t work without the LCM? Headlights will be out obviously, but what about brake lights? IOW is the car drivable at all? No worries if not, just need to plan for it.

I’m going to follow Jim’s instructions and get it out and send to him this weekend. I just hope this will also fix my dead underbody lights, which haven’t worked in over a year. Thanks.


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The only lights that WILL work are the brake lights. They do not go thru the LCM.

You will have NO, headlights, tail lights, running lights, turn signals or interior lights.

Replied to your PM.
 
decipha said:
why not just bring it to the dealer and let them do it for free ?
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Hell, I never got a notification from them regardless; first I've heard of this. I can't imagine any MM's are still under warranty in any case, so if they were fixing it for free they never notified me. I recall it coming up a few years ago, but would rather trust Jim with the work anyway.
 
fastblackmerc said:
The only lights that WILL work are the brake lights. They do not go thru the LCM.

You will have NO, headlights, tail lights, running lights, turn signals or interior lights.

Replied to your PM.
Click to expand...

Got it, thanks very much. Good to know I could drive it if I had to, but will try and leave it parked for a while. Definitely easier to do that these days...
 
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