Lug nut torque spec and size....

J

junehhan

Senior Member
Hey guys, I was curious what you guys torque your lug nuts on the rims to. The manual states to torque them to anywhere between 85-105 lb-ft of torque. Personally, I torque mine to 90lb-ft of torque using my torque wrench since I don't want to overtighten anything by accident.

Also, while the manual states to use a 1/2 x 20mm socket for the lug nuts, has anyone noticed that a 20mm socket will not fit? I had to use a 13/16 inch socket for the lug nuts. I tried several 20mm sockets and none of them would fit at all, which is ironic since that is what the manual states to use for the lug nuts.
 
I use 13/16 also. And I torque em to 96 FT/LBS always w/out problems. I once torqued em to 106 FT/Lbs, but I remember that one of the 20 lug nuts felt like it didn't want to come up to that torque as i was tightening it. it kept on turning, and I was afraid of stripping it, so ever since then I stay at 96 FT/LBS. I never had a problem at that spec. However I use anti-seize compound on the Lugs which will decrease the spec. If they're dry, then it's safer to bring the torque higher. So that might explain why that one lug nut felt kinda shaky going to the ful 106 FT/LBS. If the lugs were dry, and w/out anti-seize compound on them, I don't think that would've happened.
 
junehhan said:
Hey guys, I was curious what you guys torque your lug nuts on the rims to. The manual states to torque them to anywhere between 85-105 lb-ft of torque. Personally, I torque mine to 90lb-ft of torque using my torque wrench since I don't want to overtighten anything by accident.

Guys - I'm just curious where you found the 85-105 spec in the manual. I have the 03 shop manual and all I can find for lug nut torque spec is "129 Nm (95 lb-ft)" in section 204-04-6. 13/16 is the size socket I always use too.
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ValleyMan, I have the Ford shop manual too(2003). The way that thing is set up, you'll find torque specs on the same part in several places usually. And sometimes they aren't exactly the same either. I saw the spec for that indicating the same thing as was previously stated in the first post, but i don't remember what page it was in.
 
Hmmm, yes, on page 204-04-1, and page 204-04-6 it does say 95 FT/LBS. That's it. I could've sworn I saw it as being 96-106 FT/LBS elsewhere. oh well, I guess I'm okay since I torque em to 96 FT/LBS like I said. But just keep in mind that if you decide to put any lubrication on the lugs (be it anti-seize compound or otherwise, then that can change the torque spec a little. However 96 FT/LBS has worked for me.
 
The 85-105lb-ft torque spec was somewhere around page 140 in the owners manual in the section on how to change to the spare, or something like that. Right now, it's dark, but i'll get the exact page number sometime tomarrow morning. BGM, thanks for the tip as i'll torque them to 95lb-ft next time since I generally retorque them every 1000 miles.
 
valleyman said:
Guys - I'm just curious where you found the 85-105 spec in the manual. I have the 03 shop manual and all I can find for lug nut torque spec is "129 Nm (95 lb-ft)" in section 204-04-6. 13/16 is the size socket I always use too.
Click to expand...

I put mine on with the torque wrench set to 95 lb-ft as well, as per the shop guide.

I have a related question: has anybody noticed the wheels are sometimes really hard to get off the hubs? I mean, after the nuts are removed. Last time I rotated my wheels and tires I had a hard time getting them free. I think it's the disimilar metal effect, as there was lots of what looked like rust around the hub and inside the wheel where it contacts the hub. I cleaned everything up with a wire brush and got it all shiny, and everything is good now, but I'll probably need to do this every time I rotate the wheels just to stay on top of it. Anybody else noticed this?
 
Just to clarify, the lug nut uses a 13/16" diameter socket externally to loosen and tighten.

The 1/2" x 20 refers to the internal thread size, 1/2 inch diameter and 20 threads per inch.

The 2004 Owners manual recommends 85-105 lb-ft dry. I used 95 with no problems.

Benny
 
I have replaced all of my lug nuts with Chrome Gorilla Lug Locks.
I did this for 2 reasons...

I wanted REAL CHROME Lugs, not the cheap Ford imitations,
and I had a need for Lug Locks, and a set of 20 accomplished both.

I got them from JDM Motors, out in Garden City, NY, along with a second key for the lugs.

I torque them to 85 ft/lbs, and then to 100 ft/lbs.

They look realy purdy.... :coolman:
 
I also put on Gorilla's Wheel Lock System. It consists of 20 wheel locks and 1 key.

For those interested, the number is 71683 for chrome and 71683BC for black chrome.

Looks great, you can't tell they are locks unless you look closely.

Benny
 
pharmpod said:
I also put on Gorilla's Wheel Lock System. It consists of 20 wheel locks and 1 key.

For those interested, the number is 71683 for chrome and 71683BC for black chrome.

Looks great, you can't tell they are locks unless you look closely.

Benny
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The set I have is the 21183HT Tuner Lug set in CHROME.
They are a little narrower than the stock lugs, but the seating surface is the same.

Your model numbers should be 71683N for 1.4" Closed Acorn Style 20 pc set in Chrome
and 71683NBC for 1.4" Closed Acorn Style 20 pc set in Black Chrome.
There is a 2" Closed Acorn Style 20 pc set in Chrome # 76681N for those of you with longer and stronger studs.
 
60-70 ft. lbs. and I don't have a gauling problem!!

Anything more and they seem to take some aluminum out when removed?? :confused:

I check them periodically and all are fine!!

BTW...100 ft. lbs. makes it tough when using the MM lug wrench on the side of the road!! :mad2:

Marauderjack :pimp:
 
Marauderjack said:
60-70 ft. lbs. and I don't have a gauling problem!!

Anything more and they seem to take some aluminum out when removed?? :confused:

I check them periodically and all are fine!!

BTW...100 ft. lbs. makes it tough when using the MM lug wrench on the side of the road!! :mad2:

Marauderjack :pimp:
Click to expand...
Yeah but if a few of them come loose, then the wheel can and likely will eventually begin to shift around and wobble, and once that happens, you can have a lug or two snap, and then you're in trouble. Especially if it happens in the rain, or on the highway, or both. If the spewc says 95 FT/LBS, then there's good reason for that. I would NOT torque them to a full 30 FT/LBS less than the spec calls out for. That's just asking for trouble. Especially on such a heavy car like the Marauder!!
 
BillyGman said:
Yeah but if a few of them come loose, then the wheel can and likely will eventually begin to shift around and wobble, and once that happens, you can have a lug or two snap, and then you're in trouble. Especially if it happens in the rain, or on the highway, or both. If the spewc says 95 FT/LBS, then there's good reason for that. I would NOT torque them to a full 30 FT/LBS less than the spec calls out for. That's just asking for trouble. Especially on such a heavy car like the Marauder!!
Click to expand...


Having a lug nut or two come loose can be a dangerous situtation. Having the proper torque on the lug nuts is most important. I you feel a wobble, stop ASAP and check it out. A loose wheel will make toast out of the rim and that is a minor problem. IMO.
 
Benny, thanks for the clarification on the specs called for in the owners manual. Jack, I have to agree with Billy on this one. In a society in which lawsuits have become an art, i'm pretty sure Ford spent a bit of money on R&D to determine what the proper torque settings should be on the lug nuts. Maybe 60lbs works fine on a 2600lb Civic, but I would be hesitant to leave my lug nuts that loose on a 4200lb Marauder.
 
While you're torqueing the wheels, you can check the posi clutches. Jack up both sides of the rear, leave it in park with the brake off. While tightening the lug bolts, check to see the torque that causes the clutches to slip. Mine was about 70 ft-lb. I don't know if the spec for this is in the manual, but some older Ford manuals recommend rear diff rebuild (new clutches) if it gets down to 45 or 50 ft-lb.
 
FordNut said:
While you're torqueing the wheels, you can check the posi clutches. Jack up both sides of the rear, leave it in park with the brake off. While tightening the lug bolts, check to see the torque that causes the clutches to slip. Mine was about 70 ft-lb. I don't know if the spec for this is in the manual, but some older Ford manuals recommend rear diff rebuild (new clutches) if it gets down to 45 or 50 ft-lb.
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Hmmmm, I didn't know about that. Sounds like some good info to me. Thanks.

you can also check the posi the way that I like to check it: (do a BURNOUT!!)
 
BillyGman said:
Hmmmm, I didn't know about that. Sounds like some good info to me. Thanks.

you can also check the posi the way that I like to check it: (do a BURNOUT!!)
Click to expand...


I prefer the burnout method too! When you start leaving only 1 tire mark, I guess that's when it's time to rebuild the unit!
 
Re-torqued mine and found that 60 ft. lbs. = 90+ ft. lbs. since I put anti-seize on them?? :up: As I re-tightened them all but one was at 90-100 and it took at least 90 to break them loose!! ;)

I gueass the 90 ft. lb. spec is with dry threads?? :cool: I always put anti-seize on lug nuts especially boat trailer lug nuts that regularly see salt water!! :up:

Marauderjack :pimp:
 
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