Marauder down but definitely not out!

Diversity is what it's all about. I'm not exactly breaking new ground here folks. Now that I've loaded the catapult, I want these parts -yesterday-!

I am considering sending the finished block somewhere [as yet to be determined] for final assembly as I want to make sure the final assembly is done correctly. Wherever this is, I'd get a friend to trailer the MM there for final install as well.

OK fellow Knights of the S/C Round Table, here's the first tap on the shoulder:

Where would be a good place to send these parts for final assembly and installation? I'm a good wrench myself, but I've never done a mod motor before so I don't want to risk this one on a stupid learning curve mistake.
Final assembly and installation does not have to be at the same place, and if it comes down to it, I can do an R&R myself and a couple friends.

Tom: Because I hope to have this all together and running way before my year is up, I may look at jumping to the D1SC. Is it physically bigger than my P1SC?

Nut: No, I haven't pulled anything yet. That will start this weekend and I'll update the thread just as soon as I get everything out of the car. I'm really hoping that the tranny is OK and that when it all came unglued that it was just one of those "I could have swore this is what happened" kind of things. I'll know soon enough.

Cheers

John
 
TooManyFords said:
OK fellow Knights of the S/C Round Table, here's the first tap on the shoulder:

Where would be a good place to send these parts for final assembly and installation? I'm a good wrench myself, but I've never done a mod motor before so I don't want to risk this one on a stupid learning curve mistake.
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Knowing your talent and approach to hot rodding/rebuilding your other cars, I'd say do the assembly yourself. As much as I have learned about the mod motor, it's not any different than a typical engine build. I am sure that between now and then, you can refresh your skill.
 
Scrap the Marauder timing cover in favor of a 98 Cobra cover.
You WILL need to convert to 8-rib. Order an Innovators West dampener. They make them Standard, 6% and 10% overdriven so the blower spins faster. I recently purchased the 6% model because no modification to the timing cover is necessary.
Glad you made up your mind.
 
SergntMac said:
Knowing your talent and approach to hot rodding/rebuilding your other cars, I'd say do the assembly yourself. As much as I have learned about the mod motor, it's not any different than a typical engine build. I am sure that between now and then, you can refresh your skill.
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I have been reading up on this. I picked up a back issue of MM&FF that had a how-to for changing the cams on a DOHC. I can always practice on my motor after I pull it out.

Now, speaking of the cams, chains and tensioners, I have heard that it is advisable to replace the chains and tensioners everytime the cams are swapped. My motor has 45000 or so miles so I am thinking this should be on my list as well. Any comments either way?

John
 
Zack said:
Scrap the Marauder timing cover in favor of a 98 Cobra cover.
You WILL need to convert to 8-rib. Order an Innovators West dampener. They make them Standard, 6% and 10% overdriven so the blower spins faster. I recently purchased the 6% model because no modification to the timing cover is necessary.
Glad you made up your mind.
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Thanks Zack. When switching to the Cobra cover, I assume all the same mount points exist as on the Marauder. So what exactly makes the cover the preferred swap? Does it have better Idlers? Does using an 8-rib setup require this cover?

Next, is there an 8-rib kit by somebody that has all the correct replacement wheels? I know we've discussed the 8-rib advantages and I'm all for this upgrade.

Keep the good ideas coming!

John
 
TooManyFords said:
Thanks Zack. When switching to the Cobra cover, I assume all the same mount points exist as on the Marauder. So what exactly makes the cover the preferred swap? Does it have better Idlers? Does using an 8-rib setup require this cover?

Next, is there an 8-rib kit by somebody that has all the correct replacement wheels? I know we've discussed the 8-rib advantages and I'm all for this upgrade.

Keep the good ideas coming!

John
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Lots of parts and/or kits out there for 8 rib conversion with the old cover. PITA with the new cover.

The tensioner design is totally different as well as belt length.
 
I would use the 98 Cobra timing cover, and check and see if the procharger SC mount is the same for a 98 as a 01 Cobra, if not go with the 98, it is different for the Vortech SC so we went with a 98 mount on the last project we did.
 
Well, then I've got to get with Greg to see if the FIT ProCharger mounting bracket will line up with the Cobra covers. If not, then it pretty much is a moot point and I'll be sticking with my factory cover and seeing what is available for an 8-rib conversion later.

It's not the end of the world if I have to stay with my factory cover. Adding 2-3 more psi and maybe the belt won't slip allowing me to stay with the 6-rib setup.

To be honest, if I need to change the ProCharger mounting brackets, I am going to have one made that mounts it backwards on the drivers side so that the belt is in front and then switch to a cog drive system. I've seen some pictures of this setup in one of the mod motor mags and it looks trick!

Thanks and keep the ideas coming!

John
 
Oh Im gonna catch hell for that!
But if i didnt mouth off once in a while, everyone would get bored.
 
TooManyFords said:
Well, then I've got to get with Greg to see if the FIT ProCharger mounting bracket will line up with the Cobra covers. If not, then it pretty much is a moot point and I'll be sticking with my factory cover and seeing what is available for an 8-rib conversion later.

It's not the end of the world if I have to stay with my factory cover. Adding 2-3 more psi and maybe the belt won't slip allowing me to stay with the 6-rib setup.

To be honest, if I need to change the ProCharger mounting brackets, I am going to have one made that mounts it backwards on the drivers side so that the belt is in front and then switch to a cog drive system. I've seen some pictures of this setup in one of the mod motor mags and it looks trick!

Thanks and keep the ideas coming!

John
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Yep, the bracket is different, it costs about $150. And shimming is required for clearance to fit the 8-rib belt. If you have to stick with the 6-rib you can use a pulley from Reichard (sp?) Racing. It has grooves in it to reduce slippage.
 
FordNut said:
If you have to stick with the 6-rib you can use a pulley from Reichard (sp?) Racing. It has grooves in it to reduce slippage.
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Wheher 6 or 8 rib, those guys will fix you right up. The Reichard pullies are a necessary addition.
 
SergntMac said:
Good suggestion, Brian, these are great pulleys, and solved my slip issues.

http://www.reichardracing.com/
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These guys are on my Monday call list. Question, do I just need the custom pulley for the ProCharger and the crank or do I have to get all of them at the same time? Regardless, I'll be calling them and let everyone know what I find.

Thanks Mac.

John
 
[quote

I may look at jumping to the D1SC. Is it physically bigger than my P1SC?
[/quote]

I do not believe there is a size difference. Is there Brian?
 
TooManyFords said:
These guys are on my Monday call list. Question, do I just need the custom pulley for the ProCharger and the crank or do I have to get all of them at the same time? Regardless, I'll be calling them and let everyone know what I find.

Thanks Mac.

John
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John, please keep a record of all your research and information you locate from the guys here and elsewhere. I would sincerely appreciate it. There is a lot of work that goes into a project like this. Mac and Zack both have been there. You are there now, I heading there soon. :beer:
 
TooManyFords said:
I am going to have one made that mounts it backwards on the drivers side so that the belt is in front and then switch to a cog drive system. I've seen some pictures of this setup in one of the mod motor mags and it looks trick!
Click to expand...

I spent some time exploring a cog -- there is a lot of engineering to be done. You either need a second belt which creates clearance problems or you need to think of cog pulleys for the power steering and alternator. Think about it.
 
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