sparky1562
New member
No you didnt, you just did it on that other forum! Thanks again!
Mark VIII Eaton Swap
- Thread starter sparky1562
- Start date
No you didnt, you just did it on that other forum! Thanks again!
sparky1562
New member
My build thread is here: http://www.modularfords.com/threads/156339-Modular-in-a-62-Fairlane
It has been an on again/off again effort since 09. Car has always been in the family, and wife said do something with out or get rid of it! I showed her! My buddy that is doing the heavy lifting on the welding and body work side keeps trying to turn it into a two door, but am keeping all four!
sparky1562
New member
I answered part of my own question, but now have more!
The Mark VIII damper is very different, smaller bolt pattern, smaller diameter, etc.
I had someone tell me that the Marauder bolt pattern is about 3.2 in which matches what Rick at Metco emailed me at 3.15. Per my other post, he told me that the hub was designed for the lightning/cobra not the Marauder damper.
Q1: Can you guys confirm you bolted the METCO hub to the Marauder damper?
I was told the Eaton unit I bought was from a Cobra, but has upper pulley that is about 3" outside, which seems to correspond to a 2.9" spec. It looks like an aftermarket set up, similar to METCO.
Q2: I Have at least 2 1/2" clearance between it and the hood. Should I look at going to a larger upper to decrease chance of slip, or just go with it?
Q3: If I leave that alone, looks like I just need the lower kit for lightning and not the full kit: http://www.metcomotorsports.com/products.asp?cat=100
Q4: My Mark VIII alternator pulley is only about 2 1/2" in diameter. What diameter is on the stock Marauder? I might need to change that out.
Picture of my upper pulley:
Attachments
sparky1562
New member
Still looking for some opinions on my post above, but now I am off to the fuel system.
I plan to run a return system, already have a 255lph intank pump. Have a 96 Mark VIII ECM, so don't have the electronics for the non-return system you Marauder guys have.
I have feed back from Kevin Tetz (from Trucks) and on his Jaded mustang. He has FORE requlator on the fire wall that feeds the billet rails, that basically dead end at the front of the engine (Y configuration). The return is from the regulator back to the tank. Anybody have any comment on that set up?
Talked to another guy that did a single loop to billet rails back to an Aeromotive requlator on the fire wall, with return to tank from there.
But I am wondering, if I use 96-98 1/2 Mustang rails (return system) and mount an Aeromotive requlator on the rail, would I not be okay? what would be wrong with that set up?
I plan to run a return system, already have a 255lph intank pump. Have a 96 Mark VIII ECM, so don't have the electronics for the non-return system you Marauder guys have.
I have feed back from Kevin Tetz (from Trucks) and on his Jaded mustang. He has FORE requlator on the fire wall that feeds the billet rails, that basically dead end at the front of the engine (Y configuration). The return is from the regulator back to the tank. Anybody have any comment on that set up?
Talked to another guy that did a single loop to billet rails back to an Aeromotive requlator on the fire wall, with return to tank from there.
But I am wondering, if I use 96-98 1/2 Mustang rails (return system) and mount an Aeromotive requlator on the rail, would I not be okay? what would be wrong with that set up?
Attachments
Zack
Turbo Marauder
Pick up a set of used rails and make it look nice.
Run a -8 line from the tank up to the rail. You don't have to Y the line and feed each rail individually. Connect the left and right side with a -8 line, then out to the regulator.
Run a -6 return line back to the tank.
Run an 8ga power wire to feed the pump.
Keep asking questions!!
Run a -8 line from the tank up to the rail. You don't have to Y the line and feed each rail individually. Connect the left and right side with a -8 line, then out to the regulator.
Run a -6 return line back to the tank.
Run an 8ga power wire to feed the pump.
Keep asking questions!!
sparky1562
New member
Are you saying used Billet rails or the stock rails I mentioned? I assumed you meant Billet rails (look better). If I understand your prefernece, it would be a loop, like C in the attached sketches?
Zack
Turbo Marauder
You can definitely use the rails you have pictured.
The fittings that fit in the factory rail are about 30 bucks a piece, when using good aftermarket fuel line.
Motorhead350
New member
It's nice to see the one with the most Marauder knowledge is back.
sparky1562
New member
Should I feel honored that his first post was in my Mark VIII conversion thread? :hide:
sparky1562
New member
I slept on this fuel rail issue and read the responses I got from this site and others.
It would seem to me that I could use the stock Cobra non-return style rail, block off the stock regulator fitting at the end, in conjunction with a fire wall mounted return style regulator. The positive to that is that the returned fuel is not getting heated by the rail running on top of the engine. I could always upgrade to billet rails latter. Am i missing anything here?
It would seem to me that I could use the stock Cobra non-return style rail, block off the stock regulator fitting at the end, in conjunction with a fire wall mounted return style regulator. The positive to that is that the returned fuel is not getting heated by the rail running on top of the engine. I could always upgrade to billet rails latter. Am i missing anything here?
Zack
Turbo Marauder
Im not sure I understand what you want to do with what you mentioned.
It would help if you referred to the two styles as returnless or return, (thats just the common lingo)
You can use the cobra rails and regulator like you pictured. Any return system will heat the fuel up more that a returnless, but you should never have a problem.
I took a 2 hour drive with a triple pump return system on a 95 degree day. The pumps were screaming but everything was ok.
sparky1562
New member
Version A in pdf with post 29 above. Basically using returnless stock 03 cobra rails in conjuction with a firewall mounted regulator. Return line from regulator to tank, not from the rail.
edit: similar to A only the cross over at the rails is near the feed end, Y configuration: no change to stock rail set up.
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Zack
Turbo Marauder
In my 11 years of doing and reading about mod motor stuff, I have NEVER seen or heard of anyone doing it that way.
Why? Because it wont work!
A regulator is only to be after the fuel injectors. How can it regulate pressure if it cant determine what the pressure drop is after the injectors?
Just set it up like a conventional return system.
(You can do type A on a carbureted car though)
sparky1562
New member
Well, Kevin Tetz's 66 Mustang "Jaded" is set up that way and he told me he has no problems. I talked to Jason Fore at foreinnovations, and he indicated he sets them up that way all the time. He was great to talk to too if you want to pick his brain.
If you look a the stock Cobra set up, it has the transducer on the front driver side, and has no idea what is happening at the front of the passenger side.
If you look a the stock Cobra set up, it has the transducer on the front driver side, and has no idea what is happening at the front of the passenger side.
sparky1562
New member
At waht hp point would everyone say to go with higher flow injectors than the stock cobra 39 lb units?
I have to buy something, so am trying to pick the right ones, 39, 42 (with old style connectors that fit my harness) or 60 lb?
What issues would I have with 60 lb injectors?
Ford Racing or other brands??
I have to buy something, so am trying to pick the right ones, 39, 42 (with old style connectors that fit my harness) or 60 lb?
What issues would I have with 60 lb injectors?
Ford Racing or other brands??
sparky1562
New member
Todays Question
Cooling mods. Looking to do the cooling mod down the road when I put everything in for real. Not real clear on the cooling passages in the head, but this would seem to be a valid solution:
I have a Vintage Air unit, and on the heating side it has a valve that closes off the flow when it is off. Since the 4.6 is designed so that the heater circuit flows all the time (someone correct me if I am wrong?), trying to figure out what to do.
Was thinking about leaving the heater circuit as is, out of the back of the passenger head and return to back of pump.
Then using the plug on top for the bypass on the passenger side and the rear of the head on the driver side. Then take the bypass line to the T-Stat mod (before or after?) at the upper radiator.
Would the bypass starve the heater circuit? Would i need any kind of restricter in the bypass circuit?
I also thought about just a TEE at the passenger side on the bypass mod, one side to the heater circuit, return to back of pump; other side to the T-Stat mod. I think that would starve the heater circuit without some restriction in the bypass??
Cooling mods. Looking to do the cooling mod down the road when I put everything in for real. Not real clear on the cooling passages in the head, but this would seem to be a valid solution:
I have a Vintage Air unit, and on the heating side it has a valve that closes off the flow when it is off. Since the 4.6 is designed so that the heater circuit flows all the time (someone correct me if I am wrong?), trying to figure out what to do.
Was thinking about leaving the heater circuit as is, out of the back of the passenger head and return to back of pump.
Then using the plug on top for the bypass on the passenger side and the rear of the head on the driver side. Then take the bypass line to the T-Stat mod (before or after?) at the upper radiator.
Would the bypass starve the heater circuit? Would i need any kind of restricter in the bypass circuit?
I also thought about just a TEE at the passenger side on the bypass mod, one side to the heater circuit, return to back of pump; other side to the T-Stat mod. I think that would starve the heater circuit without some restriction in the bypass??