N/A aluminator hp rating?

ddrek0214

ddrek0214

New member
Just wondering, whats the hp rating from a crate n/a aluminator 10 to 1 compression ratio? Is it the same as the as the factory or a little more? Ive been searching, but no real answer. Just doing my research. I know its almost 3 am central time, but i work crazy hours.
 
They havent really put a rating on it as far as max hp, i think that most who buy it (my self included) are more concerned with how much power its capable of handling, ive seen these motors run any where from 600 to 800 rwhp in boosted setups
 
It's 320 HP N/A "offroad tune" just a forged stock Marauder engine. Same heads/cam/compression but Heavier rotating assy. So it won't be any upgrade replacing a good running N/A engine for HP. I was curious and found that figure somewhere in the Ford Racing info etc..
 
It's 320 HP N/A "offroad tune" just a forged stock Marauder engine. Same heads/cam/compression but Heavier rotating assy. So it won't be any upgrade replacing a good running N/A engine for HP
Click to expand...

Wonder what kind of money it would be in making an OEM stock Marauder engine as stong as an Aluminator?

Or maybe I should say as capable as an Aluminator.

Is it just a matter of replacing the lower end with forged?
 
loud2004marquis said:
Wonder what kind of money it would be in making an OEM stock Marauder engine as stong as an Aluminator?

Or maybe I should say as capable as an Aluminator.

Is it just a matter of replacing the lower end with forged?
Click to expand...

Correct. Heads and cams are the same.

As for price, are you able to do the work yourself? Best option would be to buy a built shortblock and install your current heads on it. Depending on mileage and condition, you may also want to have your heads refreshed.
 
Black&Gifted said:
Correct. Heads and cams are the same.

As for price, are you able to do the work yourself? Best option would be to buy a built shortblock and install your current heads on it. Depending on mileage and condition, you may also want to have your heads refreshed.
Click to expand...


^^^^^ What he said. ^^^^^^
 
Black&Gifted said:
Confused on the above. Are you referring to the high comp and low comp aluminators or the high comp aluminator and stock block?
Click to expand...

Yes both FRPP Aluminator high/low cr bottom end are forged and rated to 700HP. High cr is only ment for low boost applications. Stock block isn't the weak link it's the bottom end pistons/rods/crank.
 
My stock motor blew a rod at about 450 RWHP. Had to buy a new aluminum block and pretty much everything else except heads. I think I have the best of everything now and will be getting it tuned in the near future. It's better then a Aluminator and also bigger cubic inch.
 
Mike M said:
My stock motor blew a rod at about 450 RWHP. Had to buy a new aluminum block and pretty much everything else except heads. I think I have the best of everything now and will be getting it tuned in the near future. It's better then a Aluminator and also bigger cubic inch.
Click to expand...

If a "side exhaust" or ventilation port is added to the block when it blows, yeah, you'll need a new block too :D But if you just upgrade rods and pistons, the cast crank and the block will take 700hp. The crank will be next - 700hp is about the limit on it - and then the blocks have been known to hold in the low 4 digits.
 
loud2004marquis said:
Wonder what kind of money it would be in making an OEM stock Marauder engine as stong as an Aluminator?

Or maybe I should say as capable as an Aluminator.

Is it just a matter of replacing the lower end with forged?
Click to expand...

Forged stroker kit will run ya $2500 and up

http://www.coasthigh.com/Ford-4-6L-4V-Dish-Top-10-5cc-Pro-Street-Kit-p/11883-ps-4v.htm

Still need to machine the block, all new head and main bolts etc..

you can probably beat the Aluminator price if you do the work yourself but assy of a Modular short block has a few odd tricks. beyond the ease of throwing together a small block (Did my old Chevy 305 twice).

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1110_overhead_cam_ford_engine_rebuild/viewall.html

Assy of the heads to the short block was very easy once I figured out the timing setup properly BEFORE TORQUING THE HEADS!!!! almost set it up 180 deg off. even with the 4V once the intake cam chains are set up it's just like setting up the 2V

SL372412.jpg


Ha that was after rotating the engine a few times, I already knew the dots walk when the engine turns as the chains have more slack on the return side with the tensioner arms etc..
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top