New Sub Woofer Upgrade

musclemerc

Senior Member
I originally had the Pioneer 8" shallow sub installed in the stock enclosure and never was fully satisfied with the sound. The basline was never on the money (it had a flappy artificial sound to it), I guess the shallow design was a factor in the performance. I wanted a richer, deeper, liver basline and I think I found the sub that deliver's exactly that.

I ordered the JL Audio 6W3V3-4 its a 6-1/2" sub that requires a sealed enclosure. The stock enclosure is almost perfectly matched for dimension's and the cost was pretty good at $109.00 Shipped. I included pics of both subs next too each other and the JL Audio is by far the superior sub.

I had to modify the stock enclosure first by lowering the support on the inside bottom of the enclosure. I chose to use my Dremel with a shaft attatchment to make this cut. Afterwards I had to relocate the mounting hole for the sub opening 5/8" away from the outside edge. There will be a small void that can be either sealed with silicone or do like I did and cut a half moon out of some 1/2" MDF and install it (see the two screws on the side of the new sub). I was able to reuse the factory seal to keep the sound in the cabin and not in the trunk, I chose not to reuse the foam pad that covered the factory sub, the JL Audio has a longer excursion so this was not reused.

Total time to modify the box is about 2 hours and was well worth it, the final fit was perfect and this little sub kick's a$$. The sound is night and day compared to the Pioneer or the stock sub. :burnout:
 

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Last edited:
ive been waiting to see how this worked out for you, i may do the same as mines is not hooked up , looks like it was great mod!
 
i just ditched the factory sub all together and installed the brand new Kicker line of component speakers. I have 2 12's in a sealed box w/ factory amp. Let us know how it sounds because I would like to have my trunk space back
 
could I just use the factory signal to an aftermarket amp? how about the power? or do I have to run a seperate wire from the battery? talking about 1300 watts.
 
Landy, you are correct. Sub swap only, I kept the factory amp and wiring.

The sub sounds great, the cabin has a "live" sound to it. The extra bass is nice!

The enclosure I used was a spare I picked up years ago, my old setup will soon be for sale it has the shallow Pioneer sub installed in it.
 
could I just use the factory signal to an aftermarket amp? how about the power? or do I have to run a seperate wire from the battery? talking about 1300 watts.
No. It only supplies a 5v signal. All other wires can be used unless you are going BIG.
 
so off the factory deck you cant use the sub output wire to signal an aftermarket amp? so what, tap into the rear deck speakers?

and would 1300 watt be considerd big?
 
yea I have 2 JL 12's hooked to factory amp. They sound great. Amp tends to overheat after about 30 mins of consistent face rocking. Its a temp setup, I have 2 JL amps to install and the wiring kit just need the time to do it. I put them in just seeing if it would actually work.... and it did. Not something I would rec as a permanent setup
 
^^ The amp is heating up and going into protect mode most likely because the 12's are much lower than a 4-Ohm load. The stock amp cannot handle that kind of load.

Get a Analog multimeter and try a parallel/series to get them up to 4-Ohm's, if they are dual voice coil then only use one side on each speaker in a series
 
^^ I think the factory amp is 75 watts peak and 40 watt continuous.


BTW I saw another thread that mentioned using the Kicker 6.5" sub. Just remember you get what you pay for, the Kicker is a "shallow" sub and will not perform the same. I removed a 8" Pioneer "shallow" sub in favor for this JL Audio sub and the diffrence is night and day.
 
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