Oil change, gauges and Mobil 1

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WolfeBros

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Ok.....just did my first oil change at 3,400 miles. At the same time I went ahead and installed the Autometer sending unit and oil pressure gauge and matching voltmeter, replacing the factory originals. The factory gauges have a different faceplate and font so I replaced the voltmeter so it would match the oil pressure gauge.

First of all when I meet the Ford guy that put the oil filter there we will have some words. The filter is definitely a pain to get out of there. My first suggestion......punch a hole in the filter to drain the oil out of it before you try to remove it. That way you will not spill any oil. I used another Motorcraft filter.

I decided to go with Mobil 1 5W30 at this first change. For what it is worth I thought the car was quieter at the first cold start with the Mobil 1 this morning. Could just be me. That 5W20 oil looks and feels just like water when it is hot. With the hotter summer temps coming I thought the Mobil 1 5W30 would be better here in the Dallas area.

The gauge install went smoothly. I used all exsisting wiring and can easily go back to original if I need to. There is no connection at all to engine computer. Lose oil pressure and you will never get a check engine light or set a code. For all those wondering about the OEM voltmeter. I bench checked it for calibration. It is the real deal and reads accurately from 10 volts to 18 volts. Below 10 volts it is not accurate but it doesn't have to be. The car won't start and run at that voltage anyway. Idle oil pressure is 50 when cold and goes down to 25 psi when warm. At 75 MPH I was reading about 75 psi. Moderate speeds I was reading right about 60 psi. (same as fake) Any questions let me know.
 
when you say you will have words with the dealer are you implying that the tech made a mess with the oil that dripped out.
 
Wolfe Bro can you tell me the part numbers of the Autometer oil and voltmeter guages. I plan to order a set this week!

Thanks!
 
Johnny: I believe he's talking about the engineer that designed where the oil filter will be.

merc: The thought's been considered, however no one I know of has done it for that plain and simple fact that it's a pita...

schuvwj: FAQ...

Wolf: Nice... Good choice on the oil. I found the motor to be a tad bit easier to start when warm with the new oil. Go figure... Post pics of both gauges if you can!
 
My man LML has got all the above questions answered. :D
Just for doing a super job as usual.......I will get some pics of the gauge faces for you to compare LML.
 
WolfeBros, some simple tricks to make filter changes easier were discussed earlier. See below.
If you are going to change your Marauder filter, pick up a few simple tools to make it easy. My local Murray's has a socket tool which works on both the original Motorcraft and also on courser end filters like Frams. A short 3/8 inch flex ratchet will allow you to loosen and tighten the filter from above. One thing I keep in the garage is a roll of aluminum foil. When I'm not roasting turkeys under the hood, it comes in handy for things like forming temporary shields to keep oil off the steering gear and cross member. On the other hand--these are Fords--a little oil won't hurt em. When you can't find your funnel you can whip up a crude one out of foil in seconds and toss it after use. There is no room to drop the filter straight down, but you can easily pass it forward over the stabilizer bar and down. There appears to be a power steering cooler hose in the way, but it is very flexible and easily moved.
 
I just did the oil and filter with the mobil one yesterday, i feel your pain. (and i cleaned up the mess) But mine has 12000 miles on it now.

As for the autometer gauges... Any helpful hints in regards to wiring? How specifically did you wire those gauges up? Any picts? Is it explained elsewhere on the board? Also, here are the part numbers for the gauges... I planned to do this mod really soon.

autometer gauges oil pressure # 4327
and voltmeter gauge #4391

Thanks alot!
 
The OEM oil pressure sending unit has a connector molded right on it. It is a tiny male spade type connector. I cut down a crimp on spade connector until it fit into the OEM harness connection. I then used a short 4" piece of wire and crimped and soldered my cutdown spade on one end. Press this spade connector into the OEM harness. Make sure it fits snugly. I wrapped the entire connector and new wire with electrical tape. This is to keep water and crud out of the connection, and to keep the wire in place. The Autometer sending unit has a stud with a 3/8 nut on it. I used a ring connector for this end of the hookup and crimped this onto the other end of the 4" wire.
The autometer sender comes with a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer. You will need to use this as the sender is 3/8 and the stock sender is 1/2.
Remove and save the stock sending unit. It is just in front of the oil filter. Use teflon tape on the new sending unit and on the 1/2 end of the reducer.

The gauge panel basically pulls up and out. You need to move the transmission lever all the way down to low gear to have enough room to pull the panel out. Once out the oil pressure, voltmeter and lighter each have their own connector. Undo the connector and you can take the panel with you to your work area.

The gauge backlighting is already wired and will fit exactly into the replacement gauges. The OEM backlights use a blue rubber over the lightbulb. The autometer gauges come with a red one and a green one. They look like little condoms. Use the green one. It matches the light from the instrument panel perfectly.

The OEM gauges have wires that go directly into their own separate connector on the back of the gauge panel. The other end of the wire goes directly into the back of the gauge. You have two choices here. You can take the pins out of the connector and unsolder the original wires and solder back on new wires......or you can do what I did and just cut the original wires about 2" from the back of the gauge. The gauge lights are just 1/4 turn and they come out. Unbolt and remove the gauge. The autometer gauges use wire studs with nuts so all you have to do is strip the original wires that you just cut and crimp a ring terminal on them. There is a diagram that comes with the gauges to show you where to hook up GROUND, switched 12V from IGNITON and the wire that comes from the SENDER.
Ground is black. The 12V Ignition wire is red/yellow. The 3rd wire for the sender (the only one left) is white/red I believe. Hook these back up per the diagram and put the gauge light back in, tighten up the two nuts on the mounting studs and oil pressure is done.

The voltmeter if you choose to replace it. Is easier. Only two wires. Here you just attach the ground wire (black) and the switched 12V wire (red/yellow). Again refer to the diagram that came with the gauge to see which studs they go on , on the back of the gauge. Put the light back in , tighten down the two mounting nuts and you are just about done.

Turn ignition to the on position. Voltmeter should come up to about 12 volt position and the oil pressure gauge will go to zero if it is not already there. Turn on the instrument lights to double check that they are working. Start the car and watch the oil pressure gauge. If the engine is cold you will get what you think is a high reading......over 75 psi at idle. This is normal. Once the engine gets to temperature it will read about 25 psi at idle, 50-60 psi at 40 mph and about 75 psi at highway speeds.

Push the gauge panel back into place and monitor your REAL oil pressure. If it ever goes below 25psi....shut her down and check your oil. There you have it.......better than FoMoCo. :D

I will be glad to answer any questions for anyone regarding this mod by PM. However.......I and this site can not and will not be responsible for any wiring errors or problems that you encounter.
If you have done this type of work before it should pose no problem. If you have not........seek help from someone that does know. :up:
 
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Thank you so much for the detailed explination. I appreciate it. I have done this kind of work before, and i think it'll be pretty easy. It sounded pretty easy. Thanks alot.
 
Dave, your welcome. You will have no problems it is pretty straight forward.

Marty. Thanks man. I am meeting Cruz tomorrow for lunch while he is in town. He wants to check out the exhaust and the gauges as well. Wish you guys were closer and could join us for a brew and a Marauder discussion. :beer:
 
Wolfe: Thanks for the invite but I have no lunch money left anyway! I am saving for better brakes and gages and ......
 
Marty if you ever get to Dallas, lunch is on me. You set me up with the speaker info and I haven't forgotten ya. Same deal with Sergent Mac. He has saved us all a bundle with the testing and reporting that he has done. It would be a pleasure breaking bread with any of you guys.
:beer:
 
I ordered my gages from Summitracing.com.
Both autometer gauges
1) Oil pressure gauge # 4327
2) Voltmeter gauge #4391
was a total $97.85 including shipping.

Thanks for your help guys!
 
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