Question about painting

B

bugsyc

New member
I'm having some body repairs done and figured while I was at it I'd have the roof repainted...The roof is starting to show some small white spots all over it.I'm thinking that it's the clearcoat failing...The body shop says that the way they paint is to put a sealer over the old paint and then spray a two stage paint job....I was sort of expecting them to sand off the old paint,down to bare metal and then skim coat,block sand and prime before painting..The guy is adamant that his way is the right way..The old paint and clearcoat being the best "shell"to paint over...I'm also having the hood done.There is really only some deep scratches and water and bird droppings etching on it but,I figured "what the hey" do it all at once....
I'm interested in hearing some knowledgeable answers as to if the body guy is right or is he just trying to save time and money....
 
bugsyc said:
I'm having some body repairs done and figured while I was at it I'd have the roof repainted...The roof is starting to show some small white spots all over it.I'm thinking that it's the clearcoat failing...The body shop says that the way they paint is to put a sealer over the old paint and then spray a two stage paint job....I was sort of expecting them to sand off the old paint,down to bare metal and then skim coat,block sand and prime before painting..The guy is adamant that his way is the right way..The old paint and clearcoat being the best "shell"to paint over...I'm also having the hood done.There is really only some deep scratches and water and bird droppings etching on it but,I figured "what the hey" do it all at once....
I'm interested in hearing some knowledgeable answers as to if the body guy is right or is he just trying to save time and money....
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What kind of warranty / guaranty are they giving you if they do it their way?
 
I'm no expert, but the problem was the basecoat being applied too thick and then collapsing caused the white spots.

I would make them strip the roof and hood. I would also make sure I see it striped.
 
fwiw
i would think stripping down to the metal is required on the panels with blisters. not just the spots popping through because there could be more spots 6 months from popping through.
 
paint

Thanks guys,You all summed up what I thought..I'll look for a body shop that will take it down to bare metal..Of course that will probably cost more..But,thats OK....Anyone have an estimate to do just the roof?No body work,.just strip it and prep it and paint it to match the original black???
 
my roof is absolutely ******ed, its not the paint or clearcoat, the metal itself is defective and has spots that will never sand out properly, ask me how I know. just cover the best you can with a thick coat of paint
 
WRAP THE ROOF???

What about a vinyl wrap on the roof?Gloss black...There aren't any blisters,just some small white dots all over the roof....
 
I hate to say it, but plastidip is selling complete car painting kits now. Complete with pair gun and airless compressor for about $500. And, you can get more than just flat colors. This may be a route for someone on a budget.
 
My 2003 is need of paint also, I would recommend you do the trunk as well, just a matter of time before that starts to flake as well.
 
"a thick coat of paint" ...

Bruce Wayne said:
my roof is absolutely ******ed, its not the paint or clearcoat, the metal itself is defective and has spots that will never sand out properly, ask me how I know. just cover the best you can with a thick coat of paint
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Well Bruce, the idea of "a thick coat of paint" tells me you know absolutely nothing about automotive paint, or painting cars. Proper thickness is specified by paint manufactures. Too thick can be as bad as too thin.

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PAINT

I shopped around and my local bodyshop agreed to do it the right way..Yea,still some guys around willing to do it right..Going in Monday....I'll post finished pictures..Thanks for all the replys...
 
NEW PAINT

My car has been in the body shop for 3 weeks.I stopped in yesterday and it looks as though the guy decided to repaint the whole car...All stripped, primed,dings and dents filled.The dent in the trunk fixed...Rear bumper and tail lights off to be repainted......I want to ask him what brand of paint he's going to use...Which brand should it be???Is it supposed to be a basecoat/clear coat 2 stage or one stage??? Urethane or acrylic?Any other things I need to know????
 
So here is the things to know and be aware of.

When stripping the paint, if the metal is in good shape and doesn't need body work the shop can lay down and etch primer, seal and then base/clear all wet on wet. Following flash times of course. There really is no need to prime, block and reprime, then seal and base clear if the metal is in good shape, waste of materials and time as well as adding too much material.

Also, there is a difference between primer, and primer surfacer. A primer, like and etch or an epoxy is meant for adhesion and corrosion resistance, Primer surfacer is for build and filling capabilities. It has to be sanded and top coated either with a sealer or directly with color.

I know people throw around the word primer, and say block sand right along with it. But real primers don't get sanded is my point, for the most part. Primer surfacers get sanded.

As for paints. I have a few recomendations. All the major paint lines are good, however, stay within their higher products lines. Each and every paint company has their own "price concious" line. Be carefull here as you truly get what you pay for.

Also, make sure the shop stays within the paint system. Nothing drives me more crazy then when a shop decides to play bench chemistry and start intermixiing products. Each company has developed their lines to work together. They don;t test to make sure their brand will work with the competitions clear etc.

Spend money for a good clear. competitively priced clears all fall short on UV screeners. That is the most expensive thing in the can. That is how a $200 a gallon of clear can be sold for $100, something is missing, and it starts with the UV protection.

If I can help in any other way please ask. I am a PPG Master Certified Tech and am a Technical Rep for a huge jobber chain in the North East.

Glenn
 
THANK YOU

WOW,THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO.IT'S OBVIOUS YOU KNOW ABOUT PAINT....HE's using a etching primer....The main dent was the trunk and he pulled it out,no body filler there.I had the rear emblem removed so,he welded the two little holes and used some epoxy filler to smooth out that section...there were a few,maybe 3 or 4 dings that he filled in...The rear quarter panel needed a lot of smoothing but,I don't know what he used...When I saw it,it was covered....I just don't want to cheap out on the paint...so,it's urethane base and clear,thatI want and a good quality brand...
 
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