Rust on inside bottom of doors - check yours!

MMM2003

MMM2003

Contributing Member
Hey:

I just noticed rust on the bottom inside of all my doors. The driver rear side is the worst. I actually have rust holes and several exposed sections, just below the door panel where the metal is folded over on the bottom of the door.

I know it's a FORD, but this just doesn't seem right for a 5-year old vehicle! I'll have to check my warranty and the "rust protection" package I got when I purchased the vehicle.

Does anyone else have this? As always, I expect no help of warranty coverage from FORD or my dealer. Any ideas on how fix this without replacing the whole door?

I have 121K miles on it and drove it all year round in WI winters and summers.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Peter aka MMM2003
 
You drive it year around in Wisconsin and you're surprised you have rust after 5 years?

Generally when rust gets between the door skin (the part that is "folded over") and the door it's shot. Even if that folded over section starts getting fat or starts swelling up, it's all done.

I DON'T work in a body shop. I did however work in a salavge yard and we considered those doors shot. Maybe some one else will chime in with better news, but I think you need some new doors.
 
I spent most of my life working and owning body shops. You have it correct Leadfoot. The bad part is what new panels cost plus the cost of painting and installation. Sometimes you its cheaper to buy a different car. Most rust warraty stops at 100,000 miles. Good luck with your problem.
 
Wow, must be a sign. My MM is my daily driver. Live near chicago. I washed car this weekend and noticed the same thing on the same door.

I always take this one to the car wash but decided to wash by hand this weekend. As I was wiping under doors I noticed rust in the seam area under the driver's rear.

I was going to post something here and saw yours. My guess is the dealer will pull the if it is not thru rust your SOL! Can't seem to get most things fixed unless you know the dealer service manager. Headlight moisture, rattles squeaks etc.
 
I was going to try Neutra-Rust or some other rust converter on my 99 F-150 doors to see if that will slow down the progress. My MM has never been out in the snow or salt, so nothing yet.

Ken
 
Up here, we shoot a mix of oil and wax called rust protect every year (undercarriage, doors, everywhere except the top) and stop 90% of the phenomenon. It doesn't leak or smell but leave a texture similar to partly frozen grease. It is messy when you touch it though.

In WI, I assume you have just about similar weather and if not treated yearly, I'm not surprized at all the results you have after 5 years. In urban areas, they use more sand, salt calcium and tiny rocks. The tiny rocks mixture is the worst for cars.
 
snowbird said:
Up here, we shoot a mix of oil and wax called rust protect every year (undercarriage, doors, everywhere except the top) and stop 90% of the phenomenon. It doesn't leak or smell but leave a texture similar to partly frozen grease. It is messy when you touch it though.

In WI, I assume you have just about similar weather and if not treated yearly, I'm not surprized at all the results you have after 5 years. In urban areas, they use more sand, salt calcium and tiny rocks. The tiny rocks mixture is the worst for cars.
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Find a rustproofer that uses Texaco-L. A greasy waxy oily substance. Drains into pinch welds, creeps up like an oil. Best $250.00 you can spend. Find a rustproofer that removes interior panels, no holes drilled. MM 5 years daily driver, no rust. 95 suburban 12 yrs daily driver no rust. Yes Michigan uses salt on the roads.
 
I also live in WI and have some bubbles at the bottom of a couple doors, no holes though. I dont plan on driving it in winter, or in any bad weather now that I have a 2nd car. I noticed that the water seems not to drain too well in those areas and even gets up under the little plastic step things. the drain holes all look good and clear, and the weatherstriping looks good. Maybe you should check those areas after rain/washing to help prevent further damage.
 
I have my car oil sprayed every second year before the winter. I have some rust spots on the frame but not any on the body except under the rubber on the chrome trim around the front side windows
 
freakstatus said:
Is it possible to sand down the rust and re-paint?
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Get a set of the small wire brushes, fine grit sandpaper or 000 steelwool and a can of Dupli-Color Rust Fix before you paint. The Rust Fix stops the rust and converts it to primer and usually lasts longer than the other metal around it.
 
johnkuhn said:
I spent most of my life working and owning body shops. You have it correct Leadfoot. The bad part is what new panels cost plus the cost of painting and installation. Sometimes you its cheaper to buy a different car. Most rust warraty stops at 100,000 miles. Good luck with your problem.
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Hey:

Thanks for all the replies. I checked the $1,395 Rust proofing warranty that came with my car and it is good for 6 years on surface rust and 10 years on rust through. No mention of mileage (I do have over 121k miles on her).

We'll see how this plays out. Would be first time I actually got the benefits of an "extended" warranty package.

I'll report later and post some pic's.

Thanks,

Peter
 
I do believe if you bought it new from FORD it should be covered for 5 years from warranty start date with unlimited mileage for rust thru, I don't think they will cover surface rust.
 
Wouldn't a Crown Vic rear door fit the Marauder?

You must be able to pick them up cheap at a salvage/wrecker place.
If you are lucky you might find one the same colour.

Besides if it is rust then you have a choice bondo it and live with it, replacing it when it fails or replace it now.
 
Wasn't there an issue with most of these cars having tape over the drain holes in the bottom of the doors? I remember taking tape off of mine right after I bought it.....
 
Man, are you kidding?

I've lived in New England my whole life. Dude, I figured out a LONG time ago if you want a car not to rust, DON'T DRIVE IT THROUGH THE SNOW! I don't care if you drive a MERCEDES or a FORD, they all rust out eventually under these conditions.

I decided as soon as I got mine I WOULD NOT DRIVE IT IN THE WINTER since I loved it. I will buy a WINTER BEATER cheap. Probably a mid 90s Lincoln Mark VIII with high mileage for around $1000. You can find CVs even cheaper.

Our cars are NOT made out of stainless steel.

If you love ANY CAR you WILL NOT DRIVE IT THROUGH A NASTY, SALTY, ICEY WINTER. PERIOD.

I urge every member who own a PRISTINE SOUTHERN OR WESTERN MM TO PLEASE SAVE IT, AND DO NOT RUIN IT WITH WINTER DRIVING. There is NO excuse. Where there is a will, there is a way. ANYONE who can afford one of these cars can afford a $500 winter beater.

fastcar:burnout:
 
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Has anyone considered POR-15. I have a small can, I guess I should use it.

Yes, mine has the beginings of potential problems. Very faint powdering of rust in the seam of outer/inner door roll. Ford should have done a better job with that edge. My 90 Lincoln Town Car had a bead of some sort covering that edge. Had that car for 12 years and no problems. It IS possible to keep rust at bay. It's all in the design and prep.

I hear this POR-15 is good stuff. I'll give it a whirl.
 
fastcar said:
I urge every member who own a PRISTINE SOUTHERN OR WESTERN MM TO PLEASE SAVE IT, AND DO NOT RUIN IT WITH WINTER DRIVING. There is NO excuse. Where there is a will, there is a way. ANYONE who can afford one of these cars can afford a $500 winter beater.
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See, the nice thing about living in the south, is that (with rare exceptions) winter driving around here doesn't really ruin cars. We usually see salt on the roads maybe twice per winter. After the salt has gone away the car gets a thorough wash, including the undercarriage. This is how I can use my MM as a year-round daily driver and not have guilt issues. :) My other car (currently inoperable, unfortunately) is a '79 Chevy Malibu that saw year-round daily service here in central NC for 22 years and 174,000 miles, and only one door out of 4 has rust issues (and none of the lower fenders or frame do). Not too shabby, especially when you consider GM's notorious late 70's quality control (or lack thereof).
 
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