Stock subwoofer speaker replacement in OEM enclosure possible?

Local Boy said:
I did the 8' swap also....had some serious vibrations due to the increased base...just had to find those (vibration spots) two of them...and poof...excellent up-grade...Sounds awesome at full volume...


Thanks again musclemerc for the info...

Aloha
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Anytime.

boatmangc said:
Musclemerc, It is the Pioneer Premier 8" shallow, I bought it from Pops for the MM, I am sure it is 4 Ohm.
Maybe I'll take the back seat out again and see what vibrates.
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Start tracking down the rattle and check the speaker polarity as well.

Good Luck with the repairs. :burnout:
 
Sub

Earlier this spring I tried the JL Audio 6 inch sub.It is a real nice piece. It was almost a drop in. the edge of the magnet contacts the enclosure. I opted out because of time. I will probably install it this winter. I am going to try and heat that part of the enclosure and create more room. We'll see how it goes.
 
Update, found one speaker that needed a little vibration help. Also found that after about 1000 miles of pounding the sub was broken and sounded much better. GREAT UPGRADE,
Easy to do with a Rotozip. Took longer to uninstall/reinstall the assembly than it did to fit the bigger sub in the hole.
I had read that subs needed break in time but never really noticed it before.
 
boatmangc said:
Update, found one speaker that needed a little vibration help. Also found that after about 1000 miles of pounding the sub was broken and sounded much better. GREAT UPGRADE,
Easy to do with a Rotozip. Took longer to uninstall/reinstall the assembly than it did to fit the bigger sub in the hole.
I had read that subs needed break in time but never really noticed it before.
Click to expand...


Update appreciated. Got pics?
 
Sorry no pics.
Very simple job, 4 fasteners to drop the sub after taking out the spare. if I remember they are 11mm.
Disconnect the wiring quick connects.
Remove the old sub
Lay the template from the new sub over the opening and mark what needs to be removed.
Cut out the plastic that is in the way.
Cut the wiring that was attatched to the old sub, pay attention to the polarity (it is marked on the original sub.
Splice the wiring from the new sub to the factory wires.
Screw the new sub in place.
Reconnect the wiring.
Reinstall the sub enclosure.
You will immediately notice a lot more bass but kinda crunchy at 1st.
Enjoy!
It will gradually sound better, it took about 1000 miles and then I noticed the sound cleans up.
 
Sorry to bump up a month and a half old thread, any of you complete the JL Audio 6W3v3 install yet?

I haven't yanked the thing out yet, but will be tearing into it soon. Would the top mount depth problem be fixed with an MDF ring - plenty of those available cheap on ebay. Or is there not enough room on top of the box?

Any pics of the install?

Also, do the rest of the speakers run off the head unit? Or is there another amp for those? I have a head unit ready to go in, I might be buying new speakers though, as I don't really like the factory ford speakers (I have a collection of those in the garage... 8 out of mustangs, 4 out of an zx2, 6 out of my excursion, 8 out of two f150s, and soon to add 4 more...)
 
Not much room above the sub. I'm still not happy with the sub, I'm going to try and port the factory sub box, if that doesn't do it time to build a box.
There is no amp in the car other than the sub.
Pops got me the Pioneer Premier 75X4 and it made a big difference, that plus Infinity Kappa 6X9's in the rear deck.
 
I just ordered the JL sub and it will be going into my spare factor sub enclosure. I'm currently running the shallow Pioneer but the JL should perform better (it goes to a much lower frequency) I don't think you will have a problem with the mounting depth. I will post up a how to after I get mine installed in the next few weeks.


Fosters said:
Sorry to bump up a month and a half old thread, any of you complete the JL Audio 6W3v3 install yet?

I haven't yanked the thing out yet, but will be tearing into it soon. Would the top mount depth problem be fixed with an MDF ring - plenty of those available cheap on ebay. Or is there not enough room on top of the box?

Any pics of the install?

Also, do the rest of the speakers run off the head unit? Or is there another amp for those? I have a head unit ready to go in, I might be buying new speakers though, as I don't really like the factory ford speakers (I have a collection of those in the garage... 8 out of mustangs, 4 out of an zx2, 6 out of my excursion, 8 out of two f150s, and soon to add 4 more...)
Click to expand...
 
musclemerc said:
I just ordered the JL sub and it will be going into my spare factor sub enclosure. I'm currently running the shallow Pioneer but the JL should perform better (it goes to a much lower frequency) I don't think you will have a problem with the mounting depth. I will post up a how to after I get mine installed in the next few weeks.
Click to expand...

Sweet, thanks! Looking forward to it; this weekend looks like the head unit is going in, have everything I need finally. Should be the same thing as my excursion seeing as they use the same kit. There are only speakers in the front doors and rear deck, right? No 6 channel nightmare hopefully... :D
 
Another bump.. Anyone ever try one of the Kicker Comp VT 6.5" shallow mount subs? On paper it looks even better than JL, meaning no mounting depth issues, and supposedly it goes a bit lower frequency wise than the JL... Not to mention it's cheaper too... Sensitivity is better on these than the JL, so that might make it a lil' louder using the wimpy stock amp. Only thing I can't find is the xmax on these.

http://www.kicker.com/comp_vt

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Prod...Items=01|2060CVT654&compareItems=01|1366W3V34
 
I don't think you can go wrong with either. I'm looking to get the kicker sub.

Anyone know the specs of the factory sub amp?
 
J.bo said:
I don't think you can go wrong with either. I'm looking to get the kicker sub.

Anyone know the specs of the factory sub amp?
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Weak. It is supposedly rated at 100W but I have heard it is as low as 30W. I will be replacing the amp soon and then with the 8" Pioneer I think it will be sufficient for my needs, ie; crunchy metal/ sludge rock. I don't thing it will ever suffice for someone with hip-hop tastes.
 
What about the specs on the stock head unit?

Do you know how to take the rear shelf tray off of the rear speakers? Do I need to take the back seat off and if so how do I take it off? I want to put dynomat and track down the rattle I hear from the rear shelf tray.
 
J.bo said:
What about the specs on the stock head unit?

Do you know how to take the rear shelf tray off of the rear speakers? Do I need to take the back seat off and if so how do I take it off? I want to put dynomat and track down the rattle I hear from the rear shelf tray.
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You have to pull the rear seat. Pull the seat bottom up and out. Then you will be able to see what bolts have to be removed to take out the rear seat upper section. Then lift out the package tray. Sorry I can't be more specific than that. I did it 6 years ago when I bought mine as the rattles back there were driving me nuts. It turns out there are a lot of loose wires in the area. I taped them down using strong packing tape so they could not move. Problem solved and has not returned, even 6 years later. I put that Kicker 6.5" sub on my favorites for next season. My DTR is off the road for the winter. Yes winter, its here already :(
 
Rayjay, thanks I will look into taking mine off because I have the same rattles.
 
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