STS Turbo systems

  • Thread starter Thread starter VinnyP
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Here you go.
twinturboMM.jpg

Twin turbos in a filthy engine bay. :nono:
 
To me, the best twin turbo system for our Marauders would be mounted like this Shelby GT500 twin turbo system:

http://www.hellionpowersystems.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=140

Close to the exhaust headers and tucked up nice and neat, but out of the engine compartment.
Now I'm sure that having all those pipes in close proximity to the transmission can make things a bit toasty...
but that can be cured by some well placed heat sheilding and heat blankets.
 
To me, the best twin turbo system for our Marauders would be mounted like this Shelby GT500 twin turbo system:

http://www.hellionpowersystems.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=140

Close to the exhaust headers and tucked up nice and neat, but out of the engine compartment.
Now I'm sure that having all those pipes in close proximity to the transmission can make things a bit toasty...
but that can be cured by some well placed heat sheilding and heat blankets.
Thats sexy! True bolt on too!!
 
Too funny!
The helion kit is nice, but it is also remote!
It requires oil scavenging pumps also and the only difference is the distance from the turbo, which is not as big a deal as most people think.

Using a similar set-up one may be able to do that on the MM just behind the cross member. I would have to look at it closer.
This is what my piping currently looks like. (not my car, but off the old PTK site)

 
stock internals are good for 8 pounds of boost with a blower just wondering how that translates to turbo boost? is it the same?
there good for more then that im at 14 right now but im only at 12*
:stupid:

you can't really measure how much the motor can take on "psi" alone. different blowers/turbos etc. have different CFM ratings and will make different amounts of power at different psi.
.
Yeah, you can't go by boost pressure. Turbo's are inherently more efficient then the other blowers.

:beer: I'm glad to see this, It's very rare to come by.

You CAN NOT estimate how much "psi, lbs, .bar" an engine will take before it blows cause it's not about psi etc. Like stated it is about CFM's
(cubic feet per minute) A rating that expresses the amount of air a blower or turbo can move. The volume of air (measured in cubic feet) that can pass through an opening in one minute.

Different size turbo's or different sized supercharger moved are at a different rate even if they are at the same PSI.

Even though I don't know MM as well as the rest of you this is an area of topic I strive at.

I've warned you about oil lines, bad feed to the turbos. Look elsewhere for a turbo kit.

The feed lines aren't the concern here, From what I have read it seems MM have a strong oil pressure system. Far stronger then most cars that utilize turbo systems.

The concern here would be the oil return, If your oil return can't flow as well as the feed line your going to run into allot of problems.

Smoking,
Oil burning,
blown seals
blown turbo's

Rule of thumb is -8 or bigger (usually -10) return line with a straight downward route back into the oil pan. With running a rear mount turbo system a high flowing scavenger pump is going to be a must have or your only going damage your turbo system if not the engine.





2: Lonnnnnnng Turbo Oil return lines (probably need an auxillary oil scavenge pump for the oil return.)
3: Lonnnnnnng Turbo water coolant lines (for water jacketed Turbo bearings, which is what you want.)
6: A few cold beers to drink while you wait for boost to build in 15 feet of piping.

For the life of me I cannot figure out how those STS systems work.
When the turbo(s) are close to the exhaust ports they get hit with the HOT, HIGH VELOCITY exhaust gas pulses.....That's what spools the turbos!

#2 is a MUST HAVE
#3 like you said would base off what turbo you have.
#6 would also base of which turbo you would use.

Have you ever reached under your car and touched the exhaust after taking the family to the store and back? It's going to be Hot!

Yes turbochargers use exhaust gases to spin the turbine how ever that is not was creates "boost". "Boost" is created by heat, Now the distance from the Header(s) to the rear is allot but not enough to cool all the air coming through. Now these cars being V8 their is even more air and heat traveling through the pipes then cars that have turbo systems OE (4cyl) so the distance of travel might be greater then most but the extra 4 cyl make of for it.

Too funny!
The helion kit is nice, but it is also remote!
It requires oil scavenging pumps also and the only difference is the distance from the turbo, which is not as big a deal as most people think.

Using a similar set-up one may be able to do that on the MM just behind the cross member. I would have to look at it closer.
This is what my piping currently looks like. (not my car, but off the old PTK site)



Doesn't matter the distance that the oil needs to travel, If it is not straight down into the oil pan it is going to be a concern Hens why all these remote kits either give you or advise you to run the scavenger pumps.


Me personally I would go with a SC setup as this would be the most efficient and reliable for this type of car UNLESS you were to go with an engine bay setup which then it would be users choice.

Good luck and please keep everyone posted. I myself love when ingenuity And turbo systems collide, Plus I would like to see the out come of your choice.
 
STS has a rep around here. Their home town...

The Rep is... THEY LOSE Every damn race. If they can't even get the cars to run properly, they are a nightmare to tune.

I wouldn't put an STS on my car if it was free, honestly.
 
Here you go.
twinturboMM.jpg

Or even better.
twintubosetup.jpg

The first pic is the only really nice turbo system I've seen on a Marauder. I think it's a one-off custom setup.

There is probably enough room in the fenderwells behind the fog lights to do a custom setup similar to the second system, piping would be a PITA though. Mustangs are unibody so they can make holes in the sheetmetal and route piping easier than us with the full frame and beefy aluminum crossmember.
 
How about the t/sc used in the 2010 SHO???

I had the opportunity to sit in on the factory rep briefing of service managers--sounded like a tremendous improvement ----no warm up time--cool-down is automatic--AFTER you shut down the engine--oiling problems seem to be solved--Very compact--about the csize of a small grapefruit--very light weight--held one in my hands--Maury
 
If your going to spend the money to turbo a car why not spend your money correctly and do it right the first time.

STS kits are just plain garbage IMO
 
Thanks alot guys for the feedback. guess this type of set up is unique for a reason lol
with what ive gathered ill most likely be going trilogy when my bank account allows me to do so. might just have to get on the bottle to give myself that lil something extra till then:)
 
Me personally I would go with a SC setup as this would be the most efficient and reliable for this type of car UNLESS you were to go with an engine bay setup which then it would be users choice.
A S/C is definitely not more efficient. I have the stock PTK kit and it will make way too much power for the stock block. I hit the stock block limits at about 8 psi. I am able to go higher safely because I am not using HP to turn a belt, less stress on the rods.
As far as reliability I have had no issues with my turbo set-up in three years of daily driving/racing.
Remember, no belts. A lot of SC users have belt issues at one time or another.


Good luck and please keep everyone posted. I myself love when ingenuity And turbo systems collide, Plus I would like to see the out come of your choice.

A problem with the remote kit on the panthers is that it would be one off. I would not recommend it to anyone without turbo system experience or a very good turbo experienced shop. Everyone who has gone off the beaten path with any type of PA knows how expensive and frustrating it could be.
Any turbo is more difficult to tune on our cars because of the weight and the auto. You can only do so much on a dyno and then you have to street tune it. Depending on the situation you can really load it up in a hurry, like a 200 shot of nitrous.
You have to be careful at low rpms in 3rd also. You are better off making it down shift then letting it hit in 3rd as the torque developed and the stress on the rods is too great.
I would recommend anyone putting the PTK kit on a stock motor to use a smaller turbo that would be efficient up to about 600 chp tops.
The STS system is a little different, but that may be the way to go with it also. There are just not enough experienced tuners for our cars.
 
A S/C is definitely not more efficient. I have the stock PTK kit and it will make way too much power for the stock block. I hit the stock block limits at about 8 psi. I am able to go higher safely because I am not using HP to turn a belt, less stress on the rods.
As far as reliability I have had no issues with my turbo set-up in three years of daily driving/racing.
Remember, no belts. A lot of SC users have belt issues at one time or another.

Did you really just say that? I thought we went over this.

1.PSI holds no relevance with out including the size of the turbo
2. Both systems utilize engine power to create power. SC uses a belt and Turbo uses exhaust gases, Both create stress on an engine.
3. Both create about the same amount of stress on the rods as both shove air in the cylinders.
4. If turbos were so much more efficient for V8's Top fuel cars would have been doing it years ago.
5. "SC have problems with belts", Yea your right.. now lets think of us turbo guys.. We have oil pressure, Oil, Coolant, Couplers, BOV, Waste-gates, heat, Boost spike....... I could go on for days.


I have been into FI for the last 4years.. I have seen it all.
 
Did you really just say that? I thought we went over this.

1.PSI holds no relevance with out including the size of the turbo
2. Both systems utilize engine power to create power. SC uses a belt and Turbo uses exhaust gases, Both create stress on an engine.
3. Both create about the same amount of stress on the rods as both shove air in the cylinders.
4. If turbos were so much more efficient for V8's Top fuel cars would have been doing it years ago.
5. "SC have problems with belts", Yea your right.. now lets think of us turbo guys.. We have oil pressure, Oil, Coolant, Couplers, BOV, Waste-gates, heat, Boost spike....... I could go on for days.


I have been into FI for the last 4years.. I have seen it all.

Actually you're incorrect on some counts here.

It takes hundreds of horsepower from the crank just to turn the rotors on a supercharger. Free that horsepower up by using a turbo instead. That's why a turbo car running the exact same boost as a supercharged car makes more horsepower.

Turbos aren't used on top fuel cars because of rules, not because they wouldn't make more power. In outlaw drag racing and other series that do allow turbos, they usually limit turbo cars to smaller displacement or more weight than supercharged cars to try to equalize them because the turbo cars make so much more power.

Some of us guys have been into racing and high performance for longer than you've been born, so your 4 years ain't saying much.
 
Actually you're incorrect on some counts here.

It takes hundreds of horsepower from the crank just to turn the rotors on a supercharger. Free that horsepower up by using a turbo instead. That's why a turbo car running the exact same boost as a supercharged car makes more horsepower.

Turbos aren't used on top fuel cars because of rules, not because they wouldn't make more power. In outlaw drag racing and other series that do allow turbos, they usually limit turbo cars to smaller displacement or more weight than supercharged cars to try to equalize them because the turbo cars make so much more power.

Some of us guys have been into racing and high performance for longer than you've been born, so your 4 years ain't saying much.
totaly agree.
i have ridden a supercharged monte carlo, and owned a 86 GN.
totally differnt rush, more power on the v6 turbo at the same psi than the v8 supercharged. 355 cid chevy 4 bolt main with a carburated centrifugal vortech
 
Actually you're incorrect on some counts here.

It takes hundreds of horsepower from the crank just to turn the rotors on a supercharger. Free that horsepower up by using a turbo instead. That's why a turbo car running the exact same boost as a supercharged car makes more horsepower.
.

Some of us guys have been into racing and high performance for longer than you've been born, so your 4 years ain't saying much.

If you've been into racing, turbos, superchargers so long then why do you keep comparing boost/psi between SC and turbos as if they're the same.

CAUSE THEIR NOT.

different size turbo/sc push different amounts of air, So by you saying a turbo as the same psi as a supercharger would make more power is talking out your :censored:

If I am running a DSM T25 at 6psi on my MM and your running a Kenbell SC at 6psi on your MM I can guarantee you that your SC MM is going to make more power than my T25 MM at 6psi. Even if I was were to run a dual T25 setups (Twin turbo) I wouldn't make the same HP as you, Well maybe just about but the same... But that would be cutting it close.

It's all about CFM's and turbo/SC diameter..

lets run this one more time just in case.

If I had a Turbonetics T3/T4 AR.63 at 6psi and a Turbonetics T3/T4 AR.48 at 6psi the out come would be the AR.63 would push more CFM's at 6psi then the AR.48.


So before you come out here shaking your head and trying to prove me wrong you should consider the facts not your logic.
 
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totaly agree.
i have ridden a supercharged monte carlo, and owned a 86 GN.
totally differnt rush, more power on the v6 turbo at the same psi than the v8 supercharged. 355 cid chevy 4 bolt main with a carburated centrifugal vortech


That is because your feeling the power band at different time. Supercharger start from almost 0 to mid rpm range.

Where as most turbo setups start making power in the mid range till red line.


These are two totally different power bands your talking about here so of course your "butt dyno" is going to tell you the turbo one was better.
 
Turbo chargers and super charger both have there +/- in the end it all has to do with what your application requires and what your plans call for.

OP just take your time and read, Google is a nice feature to use for situations like this. Just simply type in Key words and read.. read.. read.
 
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