Suspension upgrade

T

tdotcv

Junior Member
Suspension Modifications

Car handles crappy and I needed to do something for a more comfortable smoother ride. I decided to replace the suspension system to enhance safety and ride quality. Next is the big brake upgrade kit. Still gathering parts for that. Here's what I got so far...

All parts are Moog Problem Solver premium CK brand
Front Left/Right Upper Control Arm w/ball joint
Front Lower Ball Joints
Coil Springs
Front Left/Right Outer Tie Rod
Front Inner Tie Rods
Energy Suspension Bushings for the Sway bars and Energy Suspension end links
Monroe Gas Magnum Severe Front Shocks and Rears
Metco Watts Link
Henious Control arms
Addco Front and rear Sway bars

I'm impressed how thick and heavy the Henious control arms. I took a pic of one of them beside my size 11 foot you can see how small my foot looks beside it. Also the Sway bars are very nice and heavy.

I read through some old threads and made a list of all the parts needed and got most of them. I just had to decided what companies I would go with. Most people go with Metco control arms but I like the Heinous they look stealth, blacked out and are produced by Metco anyways. I was able to post just a few pics. Suspension should get installed in two weeks.
 

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MOTOWN said:
Sounds good , i would add a set of Moog front sway bar end links.
Click to expand...

Yes I do have those also I just forgot to mention them. I hope one day I could spot things out like that also. I want to know the car like the back of my hand.
 
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You will be a happy, happy camper with those parts installed! :)
I don't have new front Addco sway bar or end links yet, and my car feels awesome.
I'd suggest Carfixer alignment specs after everything i done.
Enjoy!
 
chief455 said:
You will be a happy, happy camper with those parts installed! :)
I don't have new front Addco sway bar or end links yet, and my car feels awesome.
I'd suggest Carfixer alignment specs after everything i done.
Enjoy!
Click to expand...

Camber: 0 to -.3 degrees.*
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.
I just show this to the shop? I've never done that before I just say give me an alingment
 
tdotcv said:
Camber: 0 to -.3 degrees.*
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.
I just show this to the shop? I've never done that before I just say give me an alingment
Click to expand...

yes, ask them to align to your specs.
 
Just out of curiosity, how many miles do you have on yours??

I've been noticing sloppier handling lately at 99K
 
jwibbity said:
Just out of curiosity, how many miles do you have on yours??

I've been noticing sloppier handling lately at 99K
Click to expand...

82k when I rebuilt my front end, except lower control arms and front sway bar. Huge improvement on a car that felt pretty tight already.
 
jwibbity said:
Just out of curiosity, how many miles do you have on yours??

I've been noticing sloppier handling lately at 99K
Click to expand...

That is plenty for front end wear. I rebuilt mine at 95K and it was pretty bad by my standards. The Marauder was outclassed by a 2012 Ford Focus (admittedly with "handling package") , which was a real wake-up call. Now the Marauder handles better than the Focus, as it should be.
 
tdotcv said:
Camber: 0 to -.3 degrees.*
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.
I just show this to the shop? I've never done that before I just say give me an alingment
Click to expand...

I prefer -0.5 degrees camber, matched within 0.1 side to side. The famed carfixer numbers are too conservative, it will handle better with more negative camber and won't wear the tires either. Also caster should be matched within 0.2.
 
I need to do all suspension parts. 258K on the clock. May have been done before by PO. But for my peace of mind I'd like to get new under there
 
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