vaccum ports on the back of the eaton?

J

Jamie R.

New member
First post for me on this site. I have a 01 cobra I'm doing the eaton swap to and I'm using a set of terry's heavy duty brackets. My question is about the 3 vaccum ports on the back of the eaton. Can any of the vaccum ports be capped or do all of them need to have a vaccum line on them. I have one vaccum plug in I can use on one of the three ports on the eaton and then cap the other two, but thought I'd check to see if any of ya'll had capped any of the ports. Ya'll's tech for the eaton swaps are way more informative than any of the other sites!!!!

Jamie R.
'01 Silver Cobra on the Cover of MM&FF's August 07 Issue
 
There is only two vacuum ports on the rear of the Eaton. The lower port is boost.

The large vacuum port I have routed to my drivers side PCV valve and the other vacuum port I have routed to my EGR and other vacuum lines. The lower boost port I have routed to my fuel pressure sensor.




Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom
 
Thanks! When you say on the boost bypass/frps, are you meaning from the back side of the boost valve or the front side of the boost valve to the most bottom port on the back side of the blower. Anybody have a pic of the back side of a eaton? Thanks again for the help!

Jamie R.
 
Ok I think I have the boost part correct. Question is does the valve open when the car is fired up then close afterwards? I noticed last night the arm went up and then had went back down by the time I walked back around to that side of the car. Does y'all's boost gauge read 0 or actually show vaccum? When I started the car up the boost gauge hovered around 13 on vaccum and then by the time I went to turn the car off the boost gauge was at 0. Does all this sound correct or is something off somewhere?

Jamie R.
 
Jamie R. said:
Ok I think I have the boost part correct. Question is does the valve open when the car is fired up then close afterwards? I noticed last night the arm went up and then had went back down by the time I walked back around to that side of the car. Does y'all's boost gauge read 0 or actually show vaccum? When I started the car up the boost gauge hovered around 13 on vaccum and then by the time I went to turn the car off the boost gauge was at 0. Does all this sound correct or is something off somewhere?

Jamie R.
Click to expand...

MY boost gauge is about 15in/HG of vaccum at idle, only time it ever stays at 0 is when the car is off.

How is your PCV system plumbed!?
 
All the small lines on the pass side lead into a big vaccum port plug in which I have on the top rear of the eaton. A larger vaccum hose from the pass side is plugged into a port on the plenum. The frps, boost valve, boost gauge is all going to the boost port on the bottom of the eaton. I have the really big port on the back of the eaton capped because I have a catch can and a egr delete. So what is wrong with my scenario? Is there a vaccum port I've missed capping or something? I'm about ready to tap out on this because I've been working at this for like 3 months every night and I'm beyond past tired of working on it. Never dreamed or thought this would be this difficult. I can text pics of the routing because I have them on my phone.

Jamie R.
 
image.jpg

Drivers side. Yes this looks rigged up and I did rig this up quickly last night to see if this would work as in the correct way of having the boost port/boost valve/ boost gauge/ frps together. Before I had all the boost and vacc mixed up.
 
The bypass valve should open when you start the car and the gauge should read vacuum while idling. Shouldn't get anywhere near zero until you drive the car with a load on it.
 
Yeah Brett this is me. This has been more to get together than I ever thought it would be. I thought I'd have this thing running like a week or two max after getting the blower from you. Alright I have my vacc reading 20 now. I'm gonna make another thread for my next question. Thanks.

Jamie R.
 
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