What did you do to your car today?

Try these two and the matching two on the other side.
3d6922ee90718619e3956e9bcf8d22c0.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Try these two and the matching two on the other side.
3d6922ee90718619e3956e9bcf8d22c0.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The hole you circled on the left has the 5/16" screw head visible as does it's counterpart on the other side of trunk lid. I looked in every single hole that was in close proximity to where the spoiler is mounted (just like the 2 holes with visible screw heads) with a flashlight and the holes on the far edge on each side of the trunk lid are the only ones where screw heads are visible. I looked twice at every single hole. With a flashlight. An LED super-bright flashlight. I loosened one of the screw heads and pushed on the spoiler to see if it would move and it didn't budge. I will go out and look again tomorrow, if it's not raining; forecast calling for 30% chance during the day, 40% in the afternoon/evening. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong, but today I only saw 2 holes with screw heads visible.

Appreciate the help.
 
SilverPhoenix... Tried to figure out if I could take the trunk lid spoiler off, but the only bolts/screws I saw in the general vicinity of where the spoiler sits on the trunk lid are two 5/16", one on each side of the trunk lid. I loosened one to see what it would do and the spoiler remained intact...wouldn't budge at all..so I just tightened it back up and left it alone...
The installation instructions may be (?) of some assistance in locating the mounting bolts... Submitted for your consideration:

Installation Instructions - Rear Spoiler ««« -click-
*.Page # 7 (of 10)
 
Thank you gdmjoe! Yes, the instructions paint the full picture now. I see they show 4 bolts and the use of adhesive tape; the tape would explain why mine wouldn't budge even after loosening one bolt. And I swear there are only 2 bolts on mine, not 4 as the instructions show. Like I mentioned earlier, I'll take another look tomorrow and will take pics of what I see and post up here.

Since there is adhesive tape involved, I don't feel 100% comfortable trying to take it off. If I screw something up, I don't have the means to fix it. I plan on getting it repainted along with the bumper covers in the near future...was just wanting to take the spoiler piece first to see how good of a job the place does. I've got other things that need $$$ to fix so this will need to wait for a bit.
 
Use a heat gun to soften the tape and adhesive it it'll come off successfully.

Yeah, don't have one of those...I just have the basic tools. Plus, I'm the type that finds a way to break stuff. I have used a heat gun before...was attempting to dry out the inside of my headlamp after fixing the cracks where water water was leaking in. Managed to warp the plastic; I have Russ (03mmmonroe) as a witness because this happened at his place 7-8 years ago.
 
Here's the pics. 1st one is leftmost hole...bolt spotted. 2nd one is the next hole...no bolt. 3rd one is the next hole...no bolt. The remaining 3 holes are the same; bolt on outermost hole, no bolts on the other 2.

Edit: ok, so the pics came up reversed from how I attached them...so reverse the order...lol.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20211106_132544272[1].jpg
    IMG_20211106_132544272[1].jpg
    197.1 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_20211106_132552041[1].jpg
    IMG_20211106_132552041[1].jpg
    181.6 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_20211106_132555181[1].jpg
    IMG_20211106_132555181[1].jpg
    189.7 KB · Views: 17
You can also use fishing line and "saw" thru the sticky tape. Then use a 3M magic eraser wheel to get the remaining tape off. Finally, clean the surface with acetone. Don't worry, the acetone will not harm your paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Rem...ocphy=9018821&hvtargid=pla-451421021261&psc=1
.

Appreciate your help, but I don't fish so would have to go buy some line. I was thinking the spoiler was just bolted on and that I could take it off/re-install easily. Now that I see it's got adhesive tape I'll just let the paint shop deal with it when I bring my car there to have the bumper repaint job done. If they mess it up then they'll be responsible and have the ability to fix; if I mess it up I'll be responsible and will have to pay someone else to have it fixed...lol.
 
Yeah, don't have one of those...I just have the basic tools. Plus, I'm the type that finds a way to break stuff. I have used a heat gun before...was attempting to dry out the inside of my headlamp after fixing the cracks where water water was leaking in. Managed to warp the plastic; I have Russ (03mmmonroe) as a witness because this happened at his place 7-8 years ago.
Hair drier works in a pinch.
 
F250 day today. 15 minutes to install new V-Leds headlights (Sweet!). 2.5 hours doing deep clean & conditioning of leather seats. Picture doesn't do justice to the before/after...
f2fe57e40e72a0d5bd81ad9243abf3c2.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Blew up the diff again. Two diffs in 7 months / 880 miles. Maybe a new record??

This rear REALLY doesn’t appreciate clutch drops, power, and the chubby car it’s expected to push!

Last one was Ford Racing and lasted a good few years before I exploded the spiders. This one was a Yukon dura grip that seemed pretty impressive until heading home today. No clue what gave out, one nasty audible pop and neutral city. Even put it in 1st and got out to witness a spinning driveshaft. No crunching sounds like when I shear the teeth of the 4.30’s, not violent left to right body movement like when the spiders binded up and shattered, just a single bang.

Towed home, put away, will open it up someday this year or next.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Blew up the diff again. Two diffs in 7 months / 880 miles. Maybe a new record??

This rear REALLY doesn’t appreciate clutch drops, power, and the chubby car it’s expected to push!

Last one was Ford Racing and lasted a good few years before I exploded the spiders. This one was a Yukon dura grip that seemed pretty impressive until heading home today. No clue what gave out, one nasty audible pop and neutral city. Even put it in 1st and got out to witness a spinning driveshaft. No crunching sounds like when I shear the teeth of the 4.30’s, not violent left to right body movement like when the spiders binded up and shattered, just a single bang.

Towed home, put away, will open it up someday this year or next.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Dang!
That sucks....sorry to hear about the mechanical maladies.
I agree with you;
An 8.8 is marginal at best in a powerful, heavy, stick shift car....
Sticky rubber too?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Blew up the diff again. Two diffs in 7 months / 880 miles. Maybe a new record??

This rear REALLY doesn’t appreciate clutch drops, power, and the chubby car it’s expected to push!

Last one was Ford Racing and lasted a good few years before I exploded the spiders. This one was a Yukon dura grip that seemed pretty impressive until heading home today. No clue what gave out, one nasty audible pop and neutral city. Even put it in 1st and got out to witness a spinning driveshaft. No crunching sounds like when I shear the teeth of the 4.30’s, not violent left to right body movement like when the spiders binded up and shattered, just a single bang.

Towed home, put away, will open it up someday this year or next.

It's obvious that you don't know how to drive or take care of your MM. You need to give it to me...

:rolleyes: :flamer:
 
Dang!
That sucks....sorry to hear about the mechanical maladies.
I agree with you;
An 8.8 is marginal at best in a powerful, heavy, stick shift car....
Sticky rubber too?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Nope! Actually I was rolling at around 40. But they are brand new Nitto 421Q’s and as they spin just enough to squeal, the car absolutely plants you into the seats. 1st gear is a complete waste at any speed so I never bother even trying, just immediate shredding and rev limiter. 2nd and up pedaling after 3,500 each gear is such an adrenaline rush!

It's obvious that you know how to drive and I’m really proud you’re never afraid to do free in house non biased independent testing of aftermarket equipment for all of us to read and learn from and gain first hand experience and all the meanwhile taking the upmost, over the top care of your pristine MM. You need to sell it to me for nothing less than $20,000.

:rolleyes: :flamer:

Yeah Kyle I see you are definitely having some issues. Hopefully this fix I did helps Bud. [emoji1303]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Recently changed the transmission fluid and gear oil.

Kevin @ Pantherlights got my set of custom projector headlights done. I hope to get them installed by Sunday since they're coming in this Saturday. Very excited for some real bright headlights out of this car.
 
Recently changed the transmission fluid and gear oil.

Kevin @ Pantherlights got my set of custom projector headlights done. I hope to get them installed by Sunday since they're coming in this Saturday. Very excited for some real bright headlights out of this car.

i love mine! I need to do a bit more aiming, but the cutoff is S H A R P !!! You'll love them, I do!!!
 
i love mine! I need to do a bit more aiming, but the cutoff is S H A R P !!! You'll love them, I do!!!

Time just keeps dragging on now that they're actually on the way! I decided to go for the top tier Morimoto kit without any bells and whistles. I really like the classy look of panthers in general so it was a no-brainer to go for a clean, OEM look.

I'm planning on driving this car up the East Coast to visit family this summer so I'm very very glad Kevin managed to get them finished beforehand so I'll have a safer journey north. The price was steep, but I really do think they'll be worth the cost!
 
Back
Top