Cam Swap Info?

musclemerc

musclemerc

Senior Member
I'm looking for information on doing a cam swap on a 32v engine. I've researched the topic and got mixed results, so while I'm waiting for Zack to get back with me on what he thinks I figured I would ask some of the senior member's for their input.
Can we do a cam swap with the timing cover still intact? I will be doing a DOT-to-DOT install and not degree them, some say yes, some say no. Which is it?

I will be doing this mod very soon with a set of 97 intake cams, a P&P intake with 10-1/2" runner's, and a 62mm~65mm TB.

:burnout:
 
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musclemerc said:
I'm looking for information on doing a cam swap on a 32v engine. I've researched the topic and got mixed results, so while I'm waiting for Zack to get back with me on what he thinks I figured I would ask some of the Senior Member's for their input.
Can we do a cam swap with the timing cover still intact? I will be doing a DOT-to-DOT install and not degree them, some say yes, some say no. Which is it?

I will be doing this mod very soon with a set of 97 intake cams and a P&P intake with stock 15" runner's.

:burnout:
Click to expand...

Im almost positive you'll have to remove the front cover to remove the bolts holding the cam gears and to install the tool that holds the cams in place. Plus you may wanna swap out the tensioners while you are in there and that requires removing the cover anyway.
 
Cover has to come off. Cover, release tension on tensioners, primary chains, cam bolts, primary gears, secondary gears and chains, intake cam. (Got da t-shirt mang!) :)
 
I know what he's saying, but, being in there, I just didn't find it possible. I actually had my covers and cam bolts off two months ago and was going to put my cloyes cam gears in and just couldn't without removing the timing cover. There just wasn't enough room or slack to get everything off from just the top. FYI, Todd's an awesome, knowledgeable, helpful guy, but, I was the one that clued him in on the fact that the Cloyes cam gears will MAX at 4deg adv or ret. He thought there was a lot more adjustability. :beer: I may try it again in the spring. Maybe there's a way to pull enough on the primary chains to get just enough slack to get it over that primary gear. What a pita!!! There was something that prevented me from getting the primary gears off with the cahin... I can't remeber if it was the TC or what... Hmmmm.... I have pics at home...
 
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I stand corrected, looks like Modularspeed does it. Hmmmm... I'll try it again.

"You only need to pull the driver side primary gear, just slightly out. The pass side, nothing needs to come all the way apart. You can just about do it without removing anything except the cam bolts, and the bolts that retain the secondary tensioners."

"Ahhh, makes sense. You can get to the passenger secondary tensioner to compress and lock it, but driver side is not gonna happen with the primary gear on."

"Disassembly is always very easy. I assume it would be for this also. The problem I think would come into is the setting the cams in correctly and lining them up right. Also do you have to adjust the valves?"

"If you do it smartly, you never remove the gears from the chains, on the primary AND the secondary chains. Plug and play.

No valve adjusting necessary. Pull the cam out, pop the new cam in the gear....lay cam down and carefully re install caps."
 
Modularspeed actually did the dyno and proved the gains with just a bolt in install, tuned and untuned (looks like untuned made more HP) so I'm gonna take him for his word that it is doable with the cover in place. Now if your gonna degree them then the cover has to come off to install new wheels. I don't think he even had to bring it up to TDC to do the swap. Bolt and go!

20HP for a $125.00 investment HA!
 
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Please document the process of your installation. It may be something I would consider doing in the future. I like lopey cams so I would go all out if I took the plunge.
 
^^You know I can't do this mod and not do a write up! Prolly the best bang for the buck mod considering the cams can be had on the cheap.
 
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Where is the 25 hp gain in the rpm range ? If it were such a great mod might other members have done this mod since 2003-04. Keep use posted on yor findings.
 
^^ This mod is old news Burt you gotta get out to a few more modular sites and see what others are doing with these engines. The link I posted has the dyno info, it's not 25hp it's 20hp gains are all across the rpm range but the biggest gain is from 5000~6300prm


Courtesy of: Modularspeed
First pic...baseline pull, Cam Swap tuned:
kellie1.jpg


Second, Cam Swap untuned VS. Cam Swap Tuned:
kellie3.jpg
 
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I wonder if the rules would apply on the open bet for N/A 12's?

Where's Fordnut when you need him?

Stock bottom end, stock top end, the 96 bumpsticks are OEM...
 
musclemerc said:
I wonder if the rules would apply on the open bet for N/A 12's?

Where's Fordnut when you need him?

Stock bottom end, stock top end, the 96 bumpsticks are OEM...
Click to expand...

yes it meets the requirements.

T, why dont you degree them? when i talked to my tuner about cams he said its highly recommended to take the most advantage
 
^^ I agree Dave, that is the ideal way to do it for maximum gains, but 20hp is alot for bolt in and go. I can always get a set of gears and degree them at a later date. If the engine was on a stand I would DEFINATELY degree them
 
musclemerc said:
^^ I agree Dave, that is the ideal way to do it for maximum gains, but 20hp is alot for bolt in and go. I can always get a set of gears and degree them at a later date. If the engine was on a stand I would DEFINATELY degree them
Click to expand...


true, i just hate doing things twice. pulling the cover shouldn't be hard really
 
:banana: I got a UPS delivery today. My cams have arrived and they are in perfect shape. I ordered new cam bolts too so when they get here the 96 cam install will begin. :burnout:
 
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