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2004 Mercury Marauder project, engine and transmission out of car. Paint, chassis and interior in excellent condition. Front seat lowers rebuilt and reupholstered. Upgraded suspension with Metco control arms, Penske 7500DA shocks and Addco tubular sway bars. 14” Wilwood brakes. 20” American...

Too bad you ever got involved with KC. I couldn't believe that picture you showed me of the twisted AN oil cooler fitting . . . glad to hear you're on the right track.

This forum doesn't seem to accept BBCODE resize syntax unfortunately. Not going to turn it into a web design project.

I'm going to proceed with three-link (torque arm) suspension and keep the solid axle. It has a fantastic feel, and handles high horsepower better than anything.

I installed 8-rib on mine, not going to puzzle over belt slippage problems as I adjust the boost to meet my goals. And an older Cobra 3-bolt timing cover to support the herky tensioner. Might want to have a discussion with myself, Chris and Marty on your new supercharger drive setup.

Great news!

While the number of brake options available from TCE for the Marauder is amazing, the 14" two-piece rotor with the Aero6 caliper is the gold standard for performance and low maintenance IMHO.

It's running without cam sensor codes now?

The bags are still for sale, $275 incl. shipping. Half off the new price. First person to actually send money gets them. I used Arnott, they are not the same as OEM. Definitely a higher rate which I don't think the car needs.

I have a set of OEM Marauder air springs for sale, only run on the car for one year then stored indoors.

See this post for photos. I'm waiting delivery of a couple fittings and some abrasion sleeve to finish the under-manifold plumbing as well as cut the heater core tubes for AN ferrules and replace the AC evaporator insulation. Then I can put the engine back in.

The engine was originally bare aluminum and I liked it, so powder-coated silver seemed to be the way to go.

That is a good point, the bolts do look close enough to trigger the cam pos sensor. Hopefully Lowndex's hired gun puts a scope on the sensor output today.

clear pics Here are some clear photos. Waveform out of the cam sensor needs to be checked, although a solid signal won't prove that cam signal alignment is not a problem. Should confirm tooth/sensor function though. Lowndex cam gear, unknown brand: Lifespeed cam gear Cloyes Hex-A-Just:

This is the plumbing under the intake. Both sides at the rear return to the front through -8 wyed to -10. The MMR dual pipe thread adapter is used at the passenger rear, driver's rear comes from the top of the cylinder head through a 150 degree -8 fitting to avoid stock EGR tube interference...

The tooth in question is the trigger for the magnetic pickup. I'm not sure who made the cam gear in Lowndex's engine, but it appears to have been made without any engineering or even an understanding of the basics. The cam trigger tooth moves with cam timing adjustment, which may be a...

Can you confirm (or not) the PCM can detect an out-of-spec relationship between crank trigger and cam sensor, and this will set the cam sensor code? Never heard of it in the context of the 4.6L 4V, but that could just be because nobody has screwed it up.

P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1) The test fails when the PCM can no longer detect the signal from the CMP sensor on Bank 1. There is no listing in the service manual for P1174, 1175. Maybe swap the sensor for a known good one? While it is out rotate the...

In the dinosaur days of pushrod big block Chevys it was not unusual to use not only the offset keyways to degree a cam, sometimes the chain was deliberately jumped a tooth to arrive at the right cam timing due to tolerances in manufacturing of the crank and cam. If the gear alignment is off by...