351W stroker or Gen 3 Coyote?

Coyote is a BIG motor

Hey guys,

I may be showing my ignorance here - I am, after all, the owner of a DTR - but the simpler swap is very likely to be the 351W-based motor. That Coyote is a damn big motor dimensionally. I think you have to get into the shock towers or front subframe with that swap, just to make room for that monster.

Given that this is a Fox body, there will be kits aplenty for either one, but I'll bet that it will be easier to slap in the 427 stroker.


My $ 0.02
Keith in Huntsville
'04 DTR
MartyO tune
 
Coyote is a BIG motor for that Fox body

Hey guys,

I may be showing my ignorance here - I am, after all, the owner of a DTR - but the simpler swap is very likely to be the 351W-based motor. That Coyote is a damn big motor dimensionally. I think you have to get into the shock towers or front subframe with that swap, just to make room for that monster.

Given that this is a Fox body, there will be kits aplenty for either one, but I'll bet that it will be easier to slap in the 351W/427 stroker.


My $ 0.02
Keith in Huntsville
'04 DTR
MartyO tune
 
Yes....and no.
The Coyote will fit without any cutting of the shock towers. It's actually smaller than our 4.6 Marauder engines because of the Coyote's low profile cam covers. It will fit under a stock foxbody hood.
The 351/427W, because of the taller deck height and the taller Edelbrock intake manifold, requires an aftermarket hood and a set of drop motor mounts...... or a BIG aftermarket hood.
The carburated Windsor is a simpler install into an '85 Mustang.
 

50L-coyote-engine-dimensions.jpg

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Wow!

The 351W weighs 50 lbs less than an all aluminum Coyote!?...:eek:
I wonder if the listed 351W weight includes a cast iron intake manifold and cast iron heads?
If so, an aluminum head and intake stroker 351W would weigh a bunch less than the all aluminum Coyote.

BTW: Look at the weight of the cast iron block 4.6 SOHC modular!!!
600 lbs!....what a porker and a dog....:shake:
A 302W based 347 or 363 would kill a 4.6 SOHC both in performance and weight reduction.

EDIT: That weight chart posted above is screwed up.
See this:
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/ford-vs-chevy-comparison-size-weight-and-hp-per-pound/

Coyote's weigh @ 444 lbs.
 
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1. Economical. If you want to drive the car occasionally with minimal effort or cost, put the car back to stock with a new carb. More and more people truly appreciate a stock 85 GT. Want to drive the car more often, maybe Fitech the 302. This will keep the carb look. I have one and they work. Not as easy as everyone makes out to be on the install and setup, but not difficult. There are several things needed that will add to the cost. They also tend to run rich from the start. You still have to tune it. OR, swap over to 86-up EFI.

2. Expensive. Rarely drive the car with tire frying torque, go 351 stroker. It will be a monster and put a smile on your face every time you floor it, but will be a pain in the a** to drive any great distance and will sit in the garage most of the time. If you enjoy sitting and staring at the car in you garage, go for it. (You can do that in its current state) The 351 swap also requires a number of items as mentioned: hood, distributor, bracket, exhaust plus you will most likely have to upgrade the fuel system, trans, rear and suspension.

3. Expensive. Drive the car anytime, anywhere, any distance you want with incredible N/A power, revs to the moon and a smooth stock idle. (My opinion - they also sound awesome)
COYOTE............ This is very expensive and more work, especially if you want A/C and power steering.
 
Joe Walsh said:
Wow!

The 351W weighs 50 lbs less than an all aluminum Coyote!?...:eek:
I wonder if the listed 351W weight includes a cast iron intake manifold and cast iron heads?
If so, an aluminum head and intake stroker 351W would weigh a bunch less than the all aluminum Coyote.

Coyote's weigh @ 444 lbs.
Click to expand...

They Sell Aluminum blocks for the 351w. The blocks weigh just over 100lbs.
 
crownvic97 said:
Those Gen 3 Coyote numbers are amazing!

What about Ford’s new 7.3 gas engine? Could be a great swap candidate in a few years if keeeping it pushrod is a concern.
Click to expand...

Probably won't be available by the time I 'pull the trigger' on engine choice.
But, I cant wait to see if they put it in a new 'BOSS 429' 2021 Mustang.

crownvic97 said:
I can’t help but feel like this thread probably made your decision even harder rather than helping you pick. :confused:
Click to expand...

Yep....I'm still doing research and comparing the 2 options....haven't decided yet.
My original plan, from years ago (before I bought and started dropping mod money on my Marauder) was to drop in a nice 351W....
then I started seeing all of these nasty big cube Windsor stroker motors....
then I see what the new Coyote is putting out.....
then .... :o
 
I have no opinion beyond the fact that having numerous big block vintage muscle cars I really appreciate the ability to drive the Marauder long distances in comfort and confidence. Nothing like cruising the streets in a vintage drop top but... the older I get the more I like reliability, safety and comfort.

On a separate note I'm in awe of the effort and money you are willing to invest in modifying a car. One day I would like to do that myself, be it building a cobra kit car or doing a resto mod etc. But the practical guy in me looks at the dollars and time you are going to invest and thinks, heck for 25% - 50% more you can buy someone else's completed project—but that's not the point I'm sure - its the design and wrenching that you value and that's awesome.
 
I know exactly what you mean.
I drove the Cobra up to a regional SAAC show on Sunday.
Coming home it was hot and sunny.
Was driving the Cobra fun?
Sure!....but it's got manual steering, manual brakes, no A/C, is loud as heck and gets about 6 - 8 mpg.
Would I take it on a long trip?
No!...I'm getting too old for that.
The heated and cooled seats of the Fusion along with A/C and a dead quiet interior make more sense for a comfy long distance trip.

My budget for the '85 is around $20,000.
Believe me, I keep hemming and hawing about dropping 20 large on an old Fox body Mustang.
But I can't see dropping 45-50 large on a new Mustang!
I guess it'll be a mid 80s restomod.
And I do look forward to wrenching on/modding the Mustang to get it back up and running fast again.
Being a carbureted engine there is no computers nor fuel injection... plus no emissions testing is nice.

BTW: At the SAAC show there was an early 90s Fox notch with a Coyote swap....:drool:
 
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My '85 Mustang is a pushrod SBF, carbureted car....and so it will stay.

363 cid SBF it is!
Dart SHP 4 bolt main block.
AFR heads with Mahle forged pistons.

4.125" bore x 3.40" stroke = 363.5 CID = 6.0 Liters

Still an 8.2" deck engine, so all the OEM 5.0 stuff will bolt right on....no modding necessary.

Depending on the camshaft, (Hey! I only have to buy ONE!!)
I'm looking for @ 525 HP....should be quite a bit of fun in my 'tin can' 3,100 lb, 4 eyed Foxbody.

Just got the pistons today.
Forged 4032 aluminum pistons, so I can run a nice tight piston-to-cylinder wall clearance....no piston slap.
The pistons have a 1mm x 1mm x 2mm ring pack that does not cut into the pin bore like the 347 SBF strokers.
Also have Grafal anti-friction coating on the skirts.
Should be around 10.6:1 compression.
Next up, the Callies CompStar forged crank and 5.4" forged rods.

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That's the plan....I'll have a local machine shop check the Dart block and do any machining necessary.
Apparently the SHP blocks are nicely finished from Dart.
Thick webbing and 4 bolt mains make it pretty much bullet proof. (Now I don't have to worry about splitting my OEM 5.0 roller block down the middle!)
If you choose, you can bore them out to 4.185" and run a 3.5" stroker crank for a 385 CID 8.2" deck SBF!....:eek:

Working on SBF pushrod V8s is SO much simpler than the Marauder's 4.6 DOHC.
 
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That’s awesome Joe! Besides swapping out crank bearings on a daily clunker to quiet down a knock for another day/month/year on a gamble that’s about all I’m willing to do internally. I figure it’s doomed anywho at that point..

I’m asked what I can’t do quite often. Of course being a 70’s kid my obvious answer to that is “absolutely nothing” and I don’t need YouTube to teach me like todays dumbed down and sensitive youth!

The right question is: What are you NOT willing to do? PLENTY! Such as spend good money on building my own engine when I hear of so many good shops that can’t even build one right! I’ll stick to welding and fabrication.. [emoji1303]


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