Stroker Short Block Project with Centri SC

Don't remove them, just unbolt them from the engine/trans and let them hang in the engine bay. Its easier than trying to undo the lines.
 
Logizyme said:
Don't remove them, just unbolt them from the engine/trans and let them hang in the engine bay. Its easier than trying to undo the lines.
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I get it. Thanks. I have a number of things to disconnect still. I bought a nylon sling today. I am thinking I may lift the engine as shown below. Will put this on hold for a few days though. Heading to Little Rock tomorrow.

Jeffonebuck said:
If your NA you could do this.
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Wtf is pictured????
The engine harness gets removed easily.

There is not one single connector that can go in the wrong place.

Lol
 
Yeah I guess that looks kind funny. Ignore the stuff on the right. I like the simple one nylon sling pick.

I am done with the wiring, I think.


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I pulled the engine out last night. I didn't mean to, but ended up pulling out the torque converter with it. I thought I followed the ford shop manual instructions pretty well until I noticed the converter coming out. Next I'll be removing the heads and getting a valve job done. Also, I'll start playing with cam degreeing just to start getting a hands on understanding of how to measure the proper angles.

Things are a bit busy at work and I'll be traveling some so this may go a bit slower than I wanted to. Hoping to get rid of the rest of the car soon. Will place an ad in craigslist.

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Removed the torque convertor and flywheel and put it up on an stand.
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Not sure if you know this already, but you should pulley for about 20 psi anyways, you are going to lose 2-3 psi because of the longer stroke. The real benefit of the stroker to me is losing those two to three pounds and regaining it back by spinning the blower harder, for you it's great because you are pulleyed for 20 but only seeing 17-18 and you are still on pump gas.
 
I am getting back to working on this again. I practiced measuring the intake and exhaust cam centerlines before I remove the heads so I know what to do when I change cams. It was a pretty good exercise.
My measurements were done with everything in its stock form. Turning the crank is a bit abrupt since all valve springs and rocker arms are in place. I'll have to look into how to make things turn smoothly when I turn the crank so I can take more reliable measurements.

One question I have is do I need to install a solid lash adjuster to measure lift? If so, can someone recommend an inexpensive option? I've been placing the dial indicator on top of the valve spring retainer.


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Here's another picture after I removed the drivers' side head. I am still playing with cams and degreeing. I'll install the cobra 98 cams (and the head) just to get a feel for how much I need to advance.
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Head removed.
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Just got these valve stem seals today. Will get the heads to a machine shop tomorrow for a cleaning and a valve job.


The new block is supposed to show up soon.

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Well, the new block was supposed to arrive tomorrow. Today I learned things got delayed again. The ETA now is January 31st! This is like the third time Ford changed the ETA. I'll make some phone calls tomorrow to find out what is going on.

Have any of you guys dealt with anything like this?


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Jeronimojc said:
Well, the new block was supposed to arrive tomorrow. Today I learned things got delayed again. The ETA now is January 31st! This is like the third time Ford changed the ETA. I'll make some phone calls tomorrow to find out what is going on.

Have any of you guys dealt with anything like this?


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I think I got the last Aluminator ford built! took maybe a week , ordered it from Summit , shipped directly from Ford.
 
I called Ford. They confirmed these blocks are in back order. They looked up my block and said mine is in the middle of the pack. All these orders should be filled by January, so I should get mine sooner. Presumably Ford is waiting for cores.

I am starting to look for other options. I definitely want an aluminum block with forged internals. Stroker is not a must.


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Anything wrong with your original block?

Have your machine shop look at it, then put a forged rotating assembly into it.

MMR has a deal for a 750HP capable fully forged 4.75L rotating assembly for $1800
 
Logizyme said:
Anything wrong with your original block?

Have your machine shop look at it, then put a forged rotating assembly into it.

MMR has a deal for a 750HP capable fully forged 4.75L rotating assembly for $1800
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Yeah, I saw that assembly today. Looks like a good deal. Nothing wrong with my block except that it is spoken for. I wasn't going to need it. I still have it so we'll see. Also, I really don't know who can do good engine block work in the area. I started looking around though.


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