Turbocharged Coyote/6R80 Swap, Build/Discussion Thread, Pics, info inside!

You need a conventional return style fuel system with an aftermarket regulator. Tune out the unnecessary fuel stuff in the pcm
 
^ Which is what the 2002 Grand Marquis hanger/sender does, adds in the return. The Vette filter has a built in regulator, and can support in excess of 800 hp.
 
The Vette fuel filter must be for a C4 or C5 as I am pretty sure that my 2006 C6 doesn't have an easily replaceable fuel filter that is located outside the fuel tank(s). Just posting this so there is no confusion about the filter / regulator.
 
A typical return puts the regulator at the fuel rail, it sounds like you are putting the regulator/return by the tank.

The only issue I can think of is if the flow is high enough and the factory fuel line thin enough to cause a pressure drop with increasing flow, as the pressure is regulated at the input of a long fuel line. I guess if you use large enough fuel line frictional losses should be low and not cause an issue.

One minor detail I learned while building a fuel system is there is special electrically-conductive Teflon fuel line available so you don't build up static electricity from the flow of non-conductive fuel over Teflon. Kind of like rubbing a balloon on your hair.
 
^ Yes, and I should have been more specific on that.....sorry guys!

The C5 uses a filter that combines both a fuel filter, and regulator in 1 compact housing. It's used widely on LS swaps, and comes in handy in this instance as well fortunately!

Speedway makes a kit that includes all the fittings to mate to -AN. If you buy the filter/fittings individually, they are rather expensive in comparison to this kit. Here is what I use on all my swaps:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Fuel-Filter-Fuel-Regulator-Kit,41791.html

That filter will support in excess of 800 flywheel HP, and was confirmed via a reliable source via this link, during my Malibu build:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/1742762-stock-corvette-99-03-fuel-filter-flow-data.html

I think a lot of times, people over think fuel systems as far as diameter of feed lines/hose go, DEPENDING on their fuel. Obviously, alcohol/E85 will require more volume.

This filter is 3/8" Feed diameter on the outlet.

My old Vic, which was easily in excess of 550 RWHP, was using the stock '97 Crown Vic fuel lines, with only a Walbro 255 in-tank in place of the stock fuel pump. The stock line diameter at the engine bay was 5/16" feed, 1/4" return.....haha.

Now, on E85, it probably would have been close to tapped out at 6-7 psi give/take.
 
A typical return puts the regulator at the fuel rail, it sounds like you are putting the regulator/return by the tank.

The only issue I can think of is if the flow is high enough and the factory fuel line thin enough to cause a pressure drop with increasing flow, as the pressure is regulated at the input of a long fuel line. I guess if you use large enough fuel line frictional losses should be low and not cause an issue.

One minor detail I learned while building a fuel system is there is special electrically-conductive Teflon fuel line available so you don't build up static electricity from the flow of non-conductive fuel over Teflon. Kind of like rubbing a balloon on your hair.

Correct sir, this system will reside entirely under the rear of the car, and the vette filter will mount where the stock Marauder filter was, and use the stock Marauder hardline from the filter forward.

That is most certainly reasonable no doudt! On my Turbo Vic, I just decided I was going to try it and run the stock 5/16" system from tank to under hood. I was shocked that it supported 14psi/race gas (123 mph trap speed on 4200 lbs race weight). No drop in AFR or fuel pressure during the run according to the logs.

No doudt though, I was at limits of the system i'm sure!

I tend to stick with O.E. as far as system design as much as possible. My reasoning on using this filter/regulator, for my previous Chevy swaps anyhow, was that if it's stock on a C5 Vette, and MANY people have pushed them past 6,7,800 RWHP, then the system/idea should be sound. So far, at least for me, it seems to work.

This will probably the the ONE that doesn't! haha
 
Haha, this is too funny. I am using that very regulator on my coyote swap. This engine loves the steady 58psi. Single 465 Walbro in tank.
Super easy plumbing with the coyote fuel rail (which you can flip 180 deg if needed), but I opted out to mount it in the wheel well where the fuel filter was originally (Mark VIII).

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I have a teflon lined -6AN supply as the stock one was tiny at 5/16s. The return is stock though. I believe Marauder supply is 3/8s already ?

You don't want to use the blue fittings with the white locking clip. You want the ones that screw together. Look thru Russell stuff.
 
Very nice!

Quick question. I won't be to my test fitting stage until next week, but am curious, how much larger or smallet are the dimensions for the 5.0 vs the 4.6 4v? The stock 4v is pretty close to the hvac box on this car, if the 5.0 is much wider this will get interesting.....
 
Awesome! The heater box clearance looks good, actually a little more room than the outgoing 4.6 DOHC. I'm still gunning for the world's first 6r80 equipped Coyote Marauder....better get my butt in gear!
 
Yeah, it's tough to explain the size differences. It is definitely wider, by at least an inch or so, but at the same time, the valve covers are shaped different, so it appears not as tall. The timing cover is thicker, and that's why the oil pan is longer.
 
Sweet. I'm hoping to have the 4.6 out tomorrow and test fitting the 5.0L. I know that it is going to be VERY close by the heater box. The 4.6 is within maybe 1/4".....so we'll see what happens when we get there.

I found this chart on the engine size, and a lot of this depends on where the measurements were taken, but it should be less than an inch total difference. I'm hoping, that valve cover contour is a little lower on the 5.0, which will net some clearance to the HVAC box:

Coyote%20Dimensions_zpsyaeve6dm.jpg


Any suggestions on the exhaust? Going to try and use the truck mani's, if they will clear the frame rails. They seem to tuck pretty tightly to the motor, not sure how much tighter a set of Mustang shorties would sit if I have to go that route.
 
Any suggestions on the exhaust? Going to try and use the truck mani's, if they will clear the frame rails. They seem to tuck pretty tightly to the motor, not sure how much tighter a set of Mustang shorties would sit if I have to go that route.

The stock mustang headers are pretty much the width of the engine as they pass just below the valve covers.

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20150513_142012.jpg


I had to modify the driver's side to go around the steering shaft, but you might be ok with how the shaft goes thru in the marauder bay.

Truck manifolds are heavy, and bulky. I doubt you will gain any room from them.
 
Thanks for the pics. I'll get the engine test fitted this weekend hopefully, unless the stock Coyote oil pan doesn't clear. Reading the YouTube comments from the Vic link, he said the stock Coyote oil pan was a no-go. I noticed the stock 4.6L oil pan is pretty much as long of a sump as possible, any longer and it's going to hit the engine cradle.

Looking into the Moroso Fox Body oil pan presently if that becomes an issue.
 
Nice! I haven't been over on CVN for a while, interesting! Looks like they went 6spd Manual as well, pretty unique! I can't wait to see the finished product!
 
this thread must be highest read on site.
I would love, and fully expect, this to pioneer to a swap kit down the road.
A 2015 435fhp take out from a Mustang should be tried soon.....
good job you ground breakers! :beer:
 
O how I miss that spool sound!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp5Tz78Qfo4

Looks like the heater case is one of the biggest issues as of right now. I see that CMAUTOWERKZ was notating that in their swap, however it appears they were able to massage their stock case and make it work by how they talk. From my measurements, this will be the biggest issue next to the LH manifold/header/steering shaft issue, which may not be one at all with the Mustang manifold.

Oil pan will slam into the K member from what i'm finding. I overnighted the Moroso unit, as I will be test fitting the 5.0 tomorrow afternoon by the looks of this.

More to come
 
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