Turbocharged Coyote/6R80 Swap, Build/Discussion Thread, Pics, info inside!

Excellent info on the alcohol detection technique. This is down with an ordinary O2 sensor, not wideband? Does it stumble a bit as it figures it out?

Actually, no. Starting around 2009 or so most Ford vehicles went to Wideband sensors. The Coyote uses dual wide bands. It's rather nice, the system operates in closed loop at all times. So under wide open throttle you simply put in what Lambda you want, and it targets that continually. It's also very fast to compensate and adjust!
 
Actually, no. Starting around 2009 or so most Ford vehicles went to Wideband sensors. The Coyote uses dual wide bands. It's rather nice, the system operates in closed loop at all times. So under wide open throttle you simply put in what Lambda you want, and it targets that continually. It's also very fast to compensate and adjust!

Wow! The engine management is every bit as compelling a reason to swap as the motor itself.
 
Indeed, it's a very nice system. However, that also makes it more complex to work with in some instances, and thus is the primary reason I went Naturally Aspirated before Turbo, to give myself time to learn the software.

I'm confident in my abilities to tune a GEN 3/4 LS setup with HP Tuners, as i've done quite a few boosted and N/A ones to say the least. However, on boost, you don't get too many chances to make a mistake, so you pretty much need to know exactly where your timing comes from/fueling/ect when you write the tune. Once wrong table or keystroke, and you could get full N/A timing under boost, which would be very bad....

The Coyote, has 30+ timing tables you have to change give/take up to 2015, then that number gets even bigger! It's all part of how things are going though. They are pretty much making the computer system infinitely variable as far as operating conditions (known as HDFX, or High Degree of Freedom Executive), which allows for tighter emission control standards and better fuel economy.

This is part of the timing table setup for the '11-14 Coyote:

Screenshot%202015-10-06%2012.51.24_zpsqh6xltw5.png
 
Very nice, detailed build thread. I appreciate you taking the time to share this information with everyone! :beer:

I'm buying a '62 Fairlane roller from my brother this winter that I hope to start collecting similar conversion parts for. If you come across any more deals on engines/trans, let me know.

8UWITH6...what's up Neil?? :burnout:


Yeah, wud up?
 
Yeah, wud up?

Counting down the days until I can own a decently fast car again! Haven't had one since after I left Pittsburg. :alone:

To keep the thread on track...www.car-part.com definitely has a LOT of options available. I called LKQ in Wichita and was quoted a pretty decent price for a low-mileage 2014 F150 engine & trans. I also found this website (http://cgfabrication.com/collections/coyote-racing-kits) where they seem to manufacturer some high-quality Turbo headers for Coyote swaps. When the time comes, I think I'll end up buying the headers only...and then fabricating the rest of the hot-side to fit where I want to place the turbos. That should cut down on quite a bit of fabrication time.
 
Counting down the days until I can own a decently fast car again! Haven't had one since after I left Pittsburg. :alone:

To keep the thread on track...www.car-part.com definitely has a LOT of options available. I called LKQ in Wichita and was quoted a pretty decent price for a low-mileage 2014 F150 engine & trans. I also found this website (http://cgfabrication.com/collections/coyote-racing-kits) where they seem to manufacturer some high-quality Turbo headers for Coyote swaps. When the time comes, I think I'll end up buying the headers only...and then fabricating the rest of the hot-side to fit where I want to place the turbos. That should cut down on quite a bit of fabrication time.

No header from any company will fit into a Marauder (if that's what you car you have)
 
I come back just to check this thread. LOL

Sweet progress. Watched your 1/4 mile pass video. That thing needs gears BAD if you weren't doing a turbo. 4.10's would be perfect.
 
I come back just to check this thread. LOL

Sweet progress. Watched your 1/4 mile pass video. That thing needs gears BAD if you weren't doing a turbo. 4.10's would be perfect.

I completely agree! When I had the driveshaft spec'd, I originally wanted to use a 4.10 ratio, but due to the diameter it would have to be to keep the critical speed in check and maintain the top speed of 140, I would have had to have a 5" diameter shaft with Aluminum. The 6 speed actually takes about a 5" longer shaft than the stock, so that also lowers the critical speed. Long story short, it was spend the big bucks on a carbon fiber one to reduce the diameter (4" is about the maximum I can get in there with the 6-speed mount/body clearance) and be able to run a deeper gear, or just live with a 3.55 or lower ratio for the short time frame it will be naturally aspirated.

I would love to see how it did with a stall converter and 4.10's!
 
I completely agree! When I had the driveshaft spec'd, I originally wanted to use a 4.10 ratio, but due to the diameter it would have to be to keep the critical speed in check and maintain the top speed of 140, I would have had to have a 5" diameter shaft with Aluminum.

A consideration that is often overlooked, or perhaps folks just decide the car will be a drag racer not a high speed cruiser or road course car.

I am considering the carbon fiber driveshaft. It is a huge expense, but even with 3.55 gears driveshaft vibration starts to rear it's ugly head at speeds not much over 100 mph. And I suspect I am in for a new driveshaft due to the Ford 9" install, it couldn't possibly have the same pinion yoke location.
 
It will vary by length and what style of joints you need on the shaft. For my car, I had to get around a 4" longer shaft and I have a Rzeppa (CV Style) joint on the trans end. Cost for my shaft in Aluminum was $950 shipped. To make the same shaft in a carbon fiber which reduced it to a 3" dia shaft, was $1700.

However, I recommend contacting the people at:http://www.driveshaftshop.com/

for an exact quote. They were very speedy and all correspondence was done via E-Mail. Thanks again to Bob for that recommendation!
 
It will vary by length and what style of joints you need on the shaft. For my car, I had to get around a 4" longer shaft and I have a Rzeppa (CV Style) joint on the trans end. Cost for my shaft in Aluminum was $950 shipped. To make the same shaft in a carbon fiber which reduced it to a 3" dia shaft, was $1700.

Ouch! I was thinking the carbon fiber shaft was around $1K. Maybe that was with plain old U-joints.

What made you decide on the CV joint? Did the trans tailshaft angle change? When I talked to the folks at the driveshaft shop they seemed to think the CV joint was more to help non-optimum trans and pinion alignment. To be honest I suspect a CV joint would help even a stock Marauder as the u-joint moves up and down as it rotates.
 
Ouch! I was thinking the carbon fiber shaft was around $1K. Maybe that was with plain old U-joints.

What made you decide on the CV joint? Did the trans tailshaft angle change? When I talked to the folks at the driveshaft shop they seemed to think the CV joint was more to help non-optimum trans and pinion alignment. To be honest I suspect a CV joint would help even a stock Marauder as the u-joint moves up and down as it rotates.

Honestly I don't even remember WHY we we that way......I just told them what length I needed, and they made the recommendation. My angles are all set good, right around 3 degrees at trans and rear pinion. I'm sure that was part of the cost, I have an adapter that takes the rzeppa joint to a standard 4 bolt ford yoke at the trans end.

I will note, however, that the centering hole in the middle of the yoke on the trans, is much larger than the traditional rear pinion yoke is. This must have been a change on the Mustangs/F150's. There is no way you could use a traditional 4 bolt rear end style yoke, on the 6 speed auto flange.
 
Honestly I don't even remember WHY we we that way......I just told them what length I needed, and they made the recommendation. My angles are all set good, right around 3 degrees at trans and rear pinion. I'm sure that was part of the cost, I have an adapter that takes the rzeppa joint to a standard 4 bolt ford yoke at the trans end.



I will note, however, that the centering hole in the middle of the yoke on the trans, is much larger than the traditional rear pinion yoke is. This must have been a change on the Mustangs/F150's. There is no way you could use a traditional 4 bolt rear end style yoke, on the 6 speed auto flange.


Your welcome. [emoji4]

You went with one due to your fixed flanged output shaft.

According to Frank @ TDSS the CV is also capable of handling up to 8* pinion angle, but that wasn't the needed cause for yours (I assume) or mine. Mine is less than 1/2* from stock.


Builder Of Badassery
 
You went with one due to your fixed flanged output shaft.

According to Frank @ TDSS the CV is also capable of handling up to 8* pinion angle, but that wasn't the needed cause for yours (I assume) or mine. Mine is less than 1/2* from stock.

Does the CV joint itself take up the axial movement of the driveshaft (like a front wheel drive) with suspension travel, or is it the adapter?

Why did you get a CV vs U-joint, 1/2* difference in alignment of the trans shaft and pinion? Or are they smoother than a U-joint even with perfect alignment?

I got some slightly conflicting information from TDSS about this, that CV joints weren't always needed.
 
Yes. This shaft was designed to replace two piece ones on the GT500's where they rely on a telescoping one with a carrier.

Also, most or all? of the cars that has the TR6060 (mine) have independent rear suspension were the diff doesn't move. I needed something that would allow movement besides a telescoping POS.

Seeing his also having a fixed flange output I immediately shared my results so he wouldn't suffer the consequences like I went through.


Builder Of Badassery
 
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