Proven HP Combination's N/A

musclemerc said:
Anonymous Member: 464HP/425TQ :eek:

Ported & polished head's W/intake & exhaust gasket's matched (Color die flow bench)


Go2GuyFL: 278HP/288TQ 04-300B
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I'd like to see those flow sheets.

BTW, there's no such thing as a '04-300B although all '04s are equipped similar to the '03-300B
 
musclemerc said:
I will make the correction and PM for the flow sheet's
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Might want to add my 5.3 BB/S info...

FordNut said:
303 rwhp, 318 rwtq
Electric Water pump (+10 hp)
180 degree 'stat
Underdrive crank pulley (+10 hp)
PHP intake spacer
Ported lower intake manifold (not short runner)
Ported, polished upper intake manifold, port matched to TB
BBK twin 62mm TB
Metco CF intake tube (larger than OEM, larger than K&N, smooth bends)
90 mm MAF
K&N conical filter & shield from K&N CAI kit
EGR flow restrictor
Denso IT20 plugs
Plasma booster
Kooks headers to custom setup: 2-1/2" pipe, Magnaflow cats, Bassani x-pipe, Edelbrock RPM mufflers, stock 2-1/4" system after mufflers, stock tips (+22 hp with headers and cats, the rest had already been upgraded and dyno tested)

With the following drivetrain mods it turned 13.3 in the 1/4
PI Stallion 2800 stall torque converter (helped with quicker revving and 1/4 mile times, not with peak power)
Reinhart/Art Carr transmission kit (much better 1/4 mile and street performance, no change on dyno)
4.10 gears
Dynotech MMC driveshaft (4.10 gears caused higher driveshaft speed which caused trans tailshaft leaks, the dynotech shaft fixed it)

365.4 rwhp, 368.9 rwtq
All of the above PLUS 5.3L BB/S built out the wazoo:
Heads: Ported, combustion chambers cleaned up, oversize valves, oversize hardened seats, hardened guides, ceramic coated chambers/valve heads/exhaust ports, teflon coated valve stems/cam caps/cam saddles, drilled out oil return holes, Cryo treatments, REM micro-polished followers, Comp beehive springs, Comp Extreme 258 series grind #106260, 222/224 duration, 475/450 lift
Bottom end: Cryo treatment and REM polishing on Kellogg forged stroker crank and Pauter cross-beam rifle-drilled billet rods, longer rods with raised wristpins in CP 9.5:1 forged pistons with ceramic and teflon coatings, teflon coated bearing inserts, cryo-REM treated cam gears and chains, billet crank trigger ring, Melling oil pump with billet gears, windage tray, main girdle, ARP rod bolts, cam bolts, main studs & head studs, plus 60 lb injectors, CPR fuel rails, twin Cobra fuel pumps
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Wow... How much was all that? :eek: Another point of compression probably would've got you over 370. And 60lb injectors and water injection would've got you 470... :D
 
RacerX said:
Wow... How much was all that? :eek: Another point of compression probably would've got you over 370. And 60lb injectors and water injection would've got you 470... :D
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It cost an obscene amount of money.

The CR was (is) at 9.5 because the intent was supercharged about 20 psi on pump gas.

Oops, it did have 60 lb injectors... better update the list...
 
Your on the right track.

Colt said:
Starts out at 3.6K RPM's at stops at 6.2K and its a 4.6L? And was it done in 1.00 gear ratio (3rd gear)?

I know some apps have 4.6L's reving from 7K to 9K RPM's.

Must be a hell of build if its a 4.6L NA.
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Mr. Man said:
Do you think a stock MM block could handle that kind of pressure. I'm skeptical
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Who says that dyno sheet wasn't the end of the motor... :D Allright, sorry for the hijack. Lets keep the data coming in, it is VERY nice to find it all in one thread instead of looking through timeslips, finding N/A motors, going to see their "garages/specs" if even listed...
 
Gotta admit... For the intake spacer's to have such a bad rep... All the guy's that kept their RWTQ had intake spacer's installed. Hmmm.....
 
musclemerc said:
Gotta admit... For the intake spacer's to have such a bad rep... All the guy's that kept their RWTQ had intake spacer's installed. Hmmm.....
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I did a before/after dyno test on one, in made virtually no difference. TAF didn't have one and still has really good TQ.

Now if we look at a PSRI, we see torque really take a dump!
 
Uummmm, Two points you bring up is TAF made great torque (see his number's posted), and the Naz (Impalaslayer's post) lost alot of torque.

I've been saying we need one with Naz, Shorty's, and a spacer to post.

BTW: I'm looking for stock MM's that have a Lidio, DR, or Zack tune to post. No other mod's other than a tune. Please PM me!
 
I was hoping some of you would have done your homework before discounting the guy's informarion and look up "N/A water injection" and see the HP number's I posted were real. 464HP is well within reach if you have a high flowing, high revving, cammed engine. Throw in the water injection along with ported and polished intake's, and some good fuel flow, and you got a lil som...sommm..

Fordnut, Blackbeauty2, dohc324ci, & ctrlraven.... Grilled or baked??? Crow?

This guy went with an old school tactic. Looks like he made his own rules. Either way i'd like to see the look on a SC'ed guy's face (that spent thousands more) when this NA MM beats the pants off him everytime.
 
New Member here!

Purchased a 04 MM DTR several months ago. Been reading a lot here. Really purchased the car for newer model car and low miles. Own a 00 Grand Marquis with 116K. Found out MM is a different breed and a special car. Want to keep it stock but want it to be at its top perfomance. Notice when accelerate hard it surges like maybe tires are slipping or may be something else, not sure. Car has 38K and knowledge of car from dealer was traded by an elderly man who traded the MM on a Rousch.

Any thoughts about best performance with stock equipment? Not planning on racing or dogging. Just a nice looking car for trips that runs great.
 
musclemerc said:
I was hoping some of you would have done your homework before discounting the guy's informarion and look up "N/A water injection" and see the HP number's I posted were real. 464HP is well within reach if you have a high flowing, high revving, cammed engine. Throw in the water injection along with ported and polished intake's, and some good fuel flow, and you got a lil som...sommm..

Fordnut, Blackbeauty2, dohc324ci, & ctrlraven.... Grilled or baked??? Crow?

This guy went with an old school tactic. Looks like he made his own rules. Either way i'd like to see the look on a SC'ed guy's face (that spent thousands more) when this NA MM beats the pants off him everytime.
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The least expensive way to buy HP is Nitrous and then S/C. Cams and ported heads cost more.
 
musclemerc said:
I was hoping some of you would have done your homework before discounting the guy's informarion and look up "N/A water injection" and see the HP number's I posted were real. 464HP is well within reach if you have a high flowing, high revving, cammed engine. Throw in the water injection along with ported and polished intake's, and some good fuel flow, and you got a lil som...sommm..

Fordnut, Blackbeauty2, dohc324ci, & ctrlraven.... Grilled or baked??? Crow?

This guy went with an old school tactic. Looks like he made his own rules. Either way i'd like to see the look on a SC'ed guy's face (that spent thousands more) when this NA MM beats the pants off him everytime.
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Actually, I suppose there is a reason nobody has seen or heard of this car before. Maybe it's a fantasy?

High revving? Did you look at the dyno sheet?

Ported heads, intake, and cams? I have all of that (even better cams and valvetrain than this "ghost" car has) as well as oversize valves and more displacement.

Fuel flow? Somebody most be stoned to think more fuel will make more power. It won't. Enough is all it takes, any more will actually kill power.

Water injection? I did try it. It can make a minor power increase in a NA car, it really shines in a SC car.

Some people will believe anything.

Crow? How about a little bit of salt and pepper on the pile of BS you're eating?
 
BTW, you still have the FANTASY car posted in the first post of the thread but haven't added my GENUINE 5.3 BB/S data.
 
The laws of physics still apply. You can only put so much fuel and air into a given cylinder size. The fuel and air is the "energy".

N/A limits the amount of air that will go into the cylinder regardless of how easy you make for the air to get in.

Try putting 100% fuel in the cylinder, fill it up and then try to ignite it.
 
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